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Discussion Starter #1
I have posted on here before but my patience is now wearing thin on this bike.First my gear shift spring went and waited 7 weeks to get it fixed under warranty.Next thing my dash stopped working.So I stripped it checked all fuses and looked at wiring.Couldnt find anything so been living with it.Next I put a bodis exhaust on and new air filter (DNA) running fine then had starting issues.Changed battery and all was ok. Did oil change,chain sprockets brake pads & tyre.Went out with baffles removed and bike was like it was firing on 3 cylinders. Put baffles back in and let bike cool down.Bike ran fine. So then I decided to remove all fairings and have a look for dash problem again,couldn't find anything so put all back together.Guess what? None of the indicators work! Stripped and rebuilt fairings and checkd all connections and still no indicators.Ride bike and orange light intermittent.Now yesterday bike wouldn't start,pushed it to top of drive and started fine( sat in sun) went out 40 miles all ok. Today bike won't start again! Checked all fuses ,battery has charge turns over nothing.Tempted to set fire to it now as as much as I love this bike it is just not cutting the mustard! It's done around 8000 miles ( dash don't work remember) so if there is anyone that can please help without stating that I need to check fuses and battery charge please feel free before I go insane!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Donsy, I've managed to fix helicopters in the last 23 years without any problems.Im sure I have an electrical glitch somewhere it's just a matter of finding the gremlin.That said I've been maintaining jap bikes for over twenty years and I have never had so many headaches with one bike.Im beginning to wonder if it's jinxed!
 

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Pinch...you know how it goes, once you let frustration in the front door, reason flies out the back!

You've got to get back to a methodical approach.

There is something wrong, eliminate what isn't and you'll find what is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wise words and it is easy to get frustrated. I just can't understand how temperamental this machine is. Oh well back to the drawing board!
 

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The F4 is no more temperamental than a Jap. Bike...and in my experience alot easier to work on.
If all the indicators arent working get a multimeter set to the 20V scale and test for 12 + volts at the fuse and at the relay and at the switch feed...
With the starting issues either go back to stock or talk on here to someone who has done the mods you have to benefit from their experience.
Use the voltmeter to check your battery for voltage collapse when cranking and also alternator output which should be about 14 volts...check the manual for exact figure.
Joe

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Joe excellent and thanks, I have managed to get her started again I do have a feeling something is draining juice from the battery.Once she fired up she purred lovely and then I left her for an hour and she started again no problem.Voltage at the battery is a good 12.8 v so plenty of juice. I will look into the indicators again tomorrow am I right in thinking the relay is inside the right hand air scoop? Thanks again.
 

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Sorry for the simple question, but do you have an alarm fitted?
 

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My F4 actually came with a dud battery. It started when the dealer delivered it and went though the obligatory explanation of all the functions. Then 10 minutes later it wouldn't even turn over. After an hour on charge it started and I had a blast next day it wouldn't start again. I charged it and then connected a multimeter and literally watched the voltage dropping. It would take six minutes from being charged to losing enough to prevent starting. Came to the conclusion it had a duff cell. The dealer swapped it for a Yuasa and it's been fine since.

Si
 

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If the battery in that machine is a KOYO, I'd certainly ditch that and start with a fresh Yuasa.
There are many threads here about KOYO batteries being crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cheers guys I have no alarm fitted and I only installed a new battery last week,I'm going to see how much it draws tomorrow from initial check to start up and then check it when it's running.I have put her on trickle charge tonight although for a new battery I think it's a bit daft.Hopefully will see tomorrow. Thing is I'm wondering if all these electrical problems are linked? Bearing in mind I'm now looking at starting issues ,dash ineffective and all indicators plus the intermittent orange light.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right I have just gone and done a few checks.The bike has been on trickle charge for about 3 hours.
Voltage checked initially read=13.34
Started up and voltage read =13.60
Turned off ignition and waited for 5 minutes.
Voltage dropped in this time to =12.99
Turned ignition and started bike
Whilst turning over voltage read 12.75 and then rose to over 13 whilst running.
I have now put on trickle charge overnight and will see if she starts in the morning but will do the same process but over a longer cycle.
 

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Check the 4 pin connector on the starter solenoid. If you look at the wiring diagram one of the wires off the solenoid feeds the ecu. On mine, it had a loose connection on one of the pins(enough to melt the plug).
 

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Pinch007;

don't know what idle charging voltage on a '10+ bike should be.....

but 13V~ is not enough....

check the electrical trouble shooting guide in the manual

my '08 at idle is ~14.5V and the same at 4,000rpm
 

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I'm pretty sure that when I was diagnosing my duff battery my MY10 was charging at 14.8V. When I turned it off the battery would settle to 13.5V in a couple of seconds and then slowly drain to 12.8 within six minutes at which point it wouldn't crank more than half a turn before the starter would reset. 12.8V should've been enough to start it, so I determined that the amps were low, indicating a bad cell. So Voltage alone isn't enough to determine a healthy battery, but it would be a good indication of whether a good battery is getting the power it needs to charge. (13V definitely seems too low.)

Si
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Right so this morning I have tried again and this is my findings:
Full charge - 12.79v. This seems low for a start!
Start-12.50v
Running and steadied between 13.55-13.65
Turned off and after 5 minutes -12.90v
After 10 minutes -12.87
I then proceeded and carried out charge feed check although a bit of guesstimate as I have no dash working
Started engine and run @2000 rpm with light switch in high beam position and got an indicated 13.65v so I think the generator is fine as I should be getting between 12.6V & 14.5V so this check was all good.
I have now removed battery completely and again put on trickle charge to see if it will go any higher and hold charge.
 

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Pinch...I will ask the question directly: What brand of battery did you install in your bike?
 

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Hi Pinch, welcome to the forum. Though I'm not as technically inclined as TheKnurl or SilentService, I've had a bit of experience with batteries, and F4's seem to be very sensitive to having a properly initiated and functioning battery. Many dealers fail to properly initiate a new battery, and this usually results in the battery never being right.

Here's a FAQ from Yuasa regarding failure of new batteries: http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=15
What can cause a new battery to fail soon after installation?
If a new battery becomes unserviceable within a few days or weeks after its installation it may be due one or more of the following reasons:
1. A faulty charging system.
2. A short circuit in the electrical system.
3. Battery terminals are dirty or not properly connected.
4. Excessive ignition off drains or high parasitic drains.
5. Electrical capacity of the battery is insufficient for size of the vehicle.
6. The battery has been inadequately activated, dissipating its strength from the outset.
7. The battery, after being filled with acid has been left too long without initial charging, and has been allowed to become sulfated.

Regarding initiation of a new battery: http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf
"4. A battery must be completely charged before installation. Charge for three to five hours at the current equivalent of 1/10 of its rated capacity found in the Yuasa Applications Book."
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have fitted a powerline battery as it was advertised for my bike. All terminals are clean and I have also conchecked all connections.I do think it's a dud as it doesn't seem to want to charge over 13V.
 
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