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Discussion Starter #1
I had a new battery fitted to my Brutale at the last service end of April and it has leaked with the resulting damage shown in the pictures.
I have spoken to the service manager at the Adelaide MV dealership who installed the battery and sent him some pictures. He has advised that he will take up my issue with the battery distributor.
I will keep everyone posted on progress, particularly how quickly I get a satisfactory resolution and what that turns out to be.

The dealership suggested that they may want to check the charging rate on my bike which I am happy for them to do. They checked it immediately after the battery was fitted and it was OK at that time so I don't anticipate that they will find anything untoward.

Has anyone else experienced this?
 

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People have experienced this when the wrong style battery was installed.
There is a non-factory activated version that fits; but, it is not correct.

The battery that should have been installed would be a SEALED from the factory, factory activated, AGM battery.

Any battery where the end user is puttng in the electrolyte (acid) is NOT CORRECT.
 

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Has anyone else experienced this?
Not on an MV but on another bike. The battery manufacturer/distributor told me, just because they are sealed, does not mean they are completely robust. Apparently, the battery is designed to 'vent' if it gets overheated (due to irregular charging), and I found out later that my stator was also on its way out so I left it at that and got another battery after I changed the stator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
People have experienced this when the wrong style battery was installed.
There is a noon-factory activated version taht fits; but, it is not correct.

The battery that should have been installed would be a SEALED from the factory, factory activated, AGM battery.

Any battery where the end user is puttng in the electrolyte (acid) is NOT CORRECT.
The battery that the stealership installed was a Powervolt Nano Gel, which from the font of all knowledge that is Google is a
"Factory Activated Sealed Gel Battery"

I did kinda trust the workshop not to install a vented lead acid battery, particularly given that it doesn't sit vertically.

I fully expect the distributor to look for an out and the voltage regulator on my bike may still turn out to be the root cause of the problem but at the end of the day, faulty products do occasionally slip out of a factory..... :rolleyes:
 

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I've experienced this also with similar reactions from forum members. It happens even with the correct battery specification. I recommend the lithium battery. Ive got two on my bikes and no troubles thus far. They seem to charge very quick, and I like the tendancy for the lithium to put out good voltage right up to the point it is almost entirely depleted.
 

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Gel and AGM lead acid batteries do not have a vent and can be mounted in any orientation. AGM is most common or motorcycles.
They're biggest failure is sensitivity to overcharge rate.

This is not the same as a Flooded Sealed Wet sell which still requires positioning upright because of the breather.

"Sundodger" what did you have in there ?
 

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the lithium battery, I like the tendancy for the lithium to put out good voltage right up to the point it is almost entirely depleted.
squibby, what does that mean ?
 

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squibby, what does that mean ?
Ive been messing with some aftermarket clocks in the garage recently, and had the multimeter out etc. involving long durations of having ignition switched on and lights etc. with the regular battery the voltage drops steadily until your lights etc are working (albeit a bit dim) but the engine wont crank. With the lithium you can still crank up until the moment the battery gives out entirely. Handy. Downside is you cant really tell when tge battery is about to deplete entirely, the head lights for example go from a nice healthy beam to next to nothing immediately when flat.
 

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Be careful, you'll damage the Lithium battery if you discharge them too much, It's their chemical make-up. Power tools and Vehicles have anything between a 9.8V to 10.8V shutdown for Lithium batteries. There are different kinds of Lithiums out there too.
I've shared quite a bit of info on this topic in the past and have some info in my photo albums Maintenance section for those who care to look there.

As with Lead acid, Lithium is not just Lithium either, if you know what I mean.











http://gallery.mvagusta.net/donsy/electrical/page1/
 

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Discussion Starter #12
G'Day Donsy, our posts overlapped. Just to confirm, the dealership installed a 'Powervolt nano gel' battery. With hindsight I'm inclined to agree with Squibby and yourself and replace it with a Lithium battery. Cost isn't an issue, nor is delivery time, do you have a recommendation for my Brutale 910S?
The item that leaked on reflection was a cheap Chinese job that wouldn't have been my first choice, I always select quality batteries for my 4 wheelers and the bike wouldn't have been any different except, shaggy dog story coming up.
I asked the workshop specifically to load test the battery when I booked it in for a service because the original battery wasn't holding a charge overnight, despite the previous owners claim that it was 'fairly new'. I checked the alternator output voltage at 14.4V and current draw with everything off was in the order of 4 milliamps. Something got lost in the translation though and when I collected the bike the morning after the service, they kept it overnight, the battery was as flat as a witches tit. They were somewhat embarrassed and someone was dispatched to parts to get a replacement. They gave it a quick and dirty 30 minute charge, started the bike, checked the alternator voltage again and I went on my way, wallet slightly lightened.
I'll be interested in the response from their supplier but won't be accepting a replacement battery as I have no trust in them and don't want a repeat episode.
 

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Thx for a the info donsey. The description of operation matches what ive experienced exactly with mine. Definately I want to avoid fully discharging. Cheers.
 

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G'Day Donsy, our posts overlapped. Just to confirm, the dealership installed a 'Powervolt nano gel' battery. With hindsight I'm inclined to agree with Squibby and yourself and replace it with a Lithium battery. Cost isn't an issue, nor is delivery time, do you have a recommendation for my Brutale 910S?
The item that leaked on reflection was a cheap Chinese job that wouldn't have been my first choice, I always select quality batteries for my 4 wheelers and the bike wouldn't have been any different except, shaggy dog story coming up.
I asked the workshop specifically to load test the battery when I booked it in for a service because the original battery wasn't holding a charge overnight, despite the previous owners claim that it was 'fairly new'. I checked the alternator output voltage at 14.4V and current draw with everything off was in the order of 4 milliamps. Something got lost in the translation though and when I collected the bike the morning after the service, they kept it overnight, the battery was as flat as a witches tit. They were somewhat embarrassed and someone was dispatched to parts to get a replacement. They gave it a quick and dirty 30 minute charge, started the bike, checked the alternator voltage again and I went on my way, wallet slightly lightened.
I'll be interested in the response from their supplier but won't be accepting a replacement battery as I have no trust in them and don't want a repeat episode.
Big mistake mate, sorry to hear about that mate. That old "this one's cheaper" , bites us so often, let's hope they pay to get the swing-arm repainted.
I use, or have used 4 different LiFePO4 batteries, the Racing Batteries version, the Shorai, the Ballistic and lastly and by far the best would be the Antigravity.

Donsy, you appear to have done your homework, my only hesitation with Li Ion is their history of catching on fire, any thoughts on this?
And this is why guys should take the time and read some of the stuff that I just posted Paul, as well as the link and then do a bit more of your own reading. It's quite alarming how much misinformation there is out there on YouTube.
Lithium is not just Lithium, all LiFePO4 batteries are not the same and then there's the differences between Lithium Ion and Lithium Iron
, this might help - https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/lithium-battery-overview.html - everybody should read this.

Hope this helps guys.
 

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Yes, Noel, you certainly CAN buy a non-factory-sealed battery; but, and it's a big but, the factory sealed version will not leak. I buy those exclusively for the reason that, as you have stated in the past...the things you add are the things that will fail...or more parts equals more failures...or why add something, it's just something else to break. Any one of those sentiments applies here.

If I have to add my electrolyte, install a seal port, and then install a seal tape over the seal port...well, I expect something in that chain will fail.

With either battery, I still have to...or should... do an initializing charge.

The factory sealed battery in my HD went 7 years before it got weak, the factory sealed Yuasa in my S4Rs is still going strong after 10 years. All of my MV Yuasa factory sealed batteries have lasted more than 5 years. (I will not say the same for BS or other lesser batteries.....)

I'm happy with that.
 

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People have experienced this when the wrong style battery was installed.
There is a non-factory activated version that fits; but, it is not correct.

The battery that should have been installed would be a SEALED from the factory, factory activated, AGM battery.

Any battery where the end user is puttng in the electrolyte (acid) is NOT CORRECT.

In retrospect, I probably should have said "sub-optimal" instead of NOT CORRECT.:smoking:
 

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My motobatt factory sealed AGM battery leaked (or more specifically weeped near the terminal) because of (I would assume) overcharging. IMO, per Donsy's post, I think optimal now appears to be Li Ion Phosphate.

Better check what's on my current bike :).
 
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