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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So long story short, took bike apart, to add my samco hoses , water pump and my full bodis exhaust. It’s a 2005 f4 1000

I also unbolted the ecm bracket from the rear subframe and replaced the cable for the rear tail section release as well. I never bolted the ecm bracket back to the subframe ( but left the ecm bolted to the bracket )

while doing the samco hoses, I removed the air box and tank to replace the tiny two inch hose on the right side of the bike.

Put bike together enough for what I thought I could have the bike running to check for exhaust leaks and coolant leaks. Bike fired right up and was running for about 25 seconds then it died.
now it will start and die within a couple seconds.

I checked all my plug connections that I unplugged, those are good, checked fuses, they are good. I lifted the gas tank and started the bike ( thinking pinched fuel line ) and still same result. The fuel pump does prime when turning bike on

I see on the ecm bracket, there is a ground wire coming out of the wire loom and it goes straight to the bracket, is it possible I screwed up my ecm but not having that bracket bolt down for a proper ground?

I feel like either I’m completely missing something or a screwed up the ecm by not having it bolted down 😢

Any suggestions, questions, comments would be helpful.
And yes I did also verify that the kick stand is up and the sensor is working, bike is also in neutral
 

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Have you got fuel pressure?
Take one fuel hose off the injector rail and point the hose into a container and turn the ignition on and check for fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Quick update, with everything back together, if I have the little choke knob rotated fully to the right, the bike will stay running

I never touched the throttle cables or idle screws or anything so I’m at a total lose how this is a problem after just taking the tank and air box off

so I believe I have ruled out the ecm question, ecm is fine. I did install a new battery before I started all this, so maybe I need to reset tps?? And I know, I need to order my microtech to run with this exhaust but the bike should still be able to start and run and idle with the stock ecu
 

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And I know, I need to order my microtech to run with this exhaust but the bike should still be able to start and run and idle with the stock ecu
Not necessarily..start and run but fuel mixture could be off enough that idle speed is too low....that's why the "fast idle" lever (aka choke) keeps it running.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you had the bike out since winter?
Deff not

I bought the bike in November, it ran fine but was too cold to ride any type of distance and the tires were shot. I wasn’t worried since it was winter time and I could let it sit and start buying things for it during the winter
Now that it’s warm enough to start working on it, I’m installing my parts etc etc. The bike did slowly start to run kind decent to where I could turn the choke off but not well enough or make me feel confident enough to start riding it a round. I think while I still have to put tires on it, install other parts, and still register it and put plates on it, I’m gonna see if I can get ahold of Chris and get a microtech ordered then readdress

I did have it running a few weeks ago when I put the new battery in it and it ran fine, idled fine,would rev Up fine, so hopefully I’m answering my own question and the darn thing just needs a proper map to run off of
 

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The map would not have changed from the described maintenance.
It is possible that the bike just needs some TLC in the form of idle adjustment, TPS reset Throttle Body Synch and check for air leaks.
Was the bike running well when put away for the winter?
 

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If a fuel stabilizer wasn't used I'm thinking you should change out your gas because of possible phase separation (E10). Keep in mind stale gas losses its octane value little alone the phase separation problem. Check your internal fuel lines as well for degradation. Best install a new fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The map would not have changed from the described maintenance.
It is possible that the bike just needs some TLC in the form of idle adjustment, TPS reset Throttle Body Synch and check for air leaks.
Was the bike running well when put away for the winter?
I agree the map wouldn’t change, it still has the stock computer. I’ve tripled checked my work, all hoses put back on, all plug connections plugged back in, so I don’t see how things can change so drastically with just changing the exhaust system along with doing the coolant system over haul.
I did put in fresh gas since it was almost empty before I started replacing everything. When I bought the bike, it seemed to be running fine. Started and idled fine, when I rode it around the neighborhood, it rode fine besides being on junk cold tires etc

when I removed the tank, it was only the electric connector for the pump, a vacuum hose going to the junction piece for the other lines going to the throttle bodies and both fuel lines disconnected at the rail ( I didn’t want to mess with them at the tank for risk of them breaking)

so all in all only four things for taking the tank off and all four were out back on

I did think, well maybe I switched up the lines when I disconnected them at the rail, so I went ahead and switched them and still same result. I will check the lines in the tank, and see if any air leaks can be found. I’m just lost how I could have created an air leak by removing the tank and air box and didn’t touch anything else
 

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I did have it running a few weeks ago when I put the new battery in it and it ran fine, idled fine,would rev Up fine, so hopefully I’m answering my own question and the darn thing just needs a proper map to run off of
Your answer lies in the work that was done after "it ran fine". Throwing a MicroTec at it in blind hope that it will fix the issue is Ludacris.
Myriad issues crop up when grounds are disturbed.
Have you cleaned and tightened the Start Solenoid connections?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your answer lies in the work that was done after "it ran fine". Throwing a MicroTec at it in blind hope that it will fix the issue is Ludacris.
Myriad issues crop up when grounds are disturbed.
Have you cleaned and tightened the Start Solenoid connections?
No I have not cleaned and tightened the start solenoid connections. I’m gonna take a look at everything again on Wednesday night and take the tank off again. There’s gotta be something I’m missing, maybe I disturbed something when I was doing all the samco hoses
 

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You changed the exhaust system....this is a major tuning change.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I’m deff going to start with this….

so I had it running again, and something said to me, it just doesn’t sound right and noticed it seemed like the bike had some shake to it, more than usual when being on a lift and rear stand. So I removed plugs and coils and look what was found on cylinder two
I took a video as well, but if you put the spark plug into the coil, the plug just starts to slide out on it owns, I’m betting when I cleaned off the valve cover area with brake clean, I got more on the coils than I thought and the rubber swelled up

lol spark plugs are supposed to stay in the boots and not slide out 🤷‍♂️
So I’m gonna start with that, plugs and coils. Idk how old the plugs are, so I might as well replace them as well
 

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NOTE: Pulling a hose off of the fuel rail and pointing the outflow at a bucket leads to high pressure fuel "leak". Be VERY VERY careful that the fuel is in no way going to shoot off and vaporize on a hot light bulb or something. I really don't recommend this way to see if you have fuel pressure.

Thanks!
Do not FUBAR your garage.
 

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I met a guy that did something like that..... his wife was putting him out with their blanket on their couch after he ran up stairs into the house on fire screaming. Permanently disfigured and has difficulty doing many things now. Was mid 20s. Really nice guy who mentors young men.
 

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If there is an issue with the little starting "choke" toggle lever then your bike won't run well from start up.
Try open the throttle a tiny amount..say twist 2mm and hold it there when you crank the engine and continue to hold it there after she fires...
Hope you solve it.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update:

cylinder two coil was replaced ( have learned and read alot about those damn beru coils :mad: ). And all four spark plugs. Any ways still rough running, I believe on two cylinders. I removed fuel tank again, pulled out fuel pump, inspected all lines,fittings, and clamps. Currently all are tight and no broken hoses or fittings ( this includes fittings on both sides of fuel lines going from tank to engine etc). Checked for spark on all four cylinders, getting spark on all four holes. Last time I had it running and checking things, I had the fuel tank hooked up and no air box installed, when started dead cold, it would run, until it started to warm up then die. Then after that it would start up and die unless the choke is used.

Looking at my new exhaust, I can see the headers on cylinders two and four are starting to change colors and 1 and 3 are not. Also after the bike dies and I open up the throttle, there is physical white smoke that's comes out of cylinders two and four. And nothing for 1 and 3. I still have the same result. So now I'm starting to think it's only running on two cylinders which made me start researching about the ebs relay. I can't find it on my bike, no white plug anywhere especially on the left side of the bike. The ebs valve is surely there and plugged in and the hose is connected to cylinder two. What could cause the bike to only run on two cylinders.......

Could the bike be in a limp mode of some sort after cylinder two coil took a dump and I need to unhook the battery and let everything clear out of the ecm. I do not have a scan tool of any kind to connect to the bike, I feel if it were a tps issue, it would be on all four cylinders, not two. I have checked all vacuum hoses going to each cylinder, they are good, I think I'm going to swap around injectors and see if it makes a difference. Could the ebs relay cause two dead cylinders? Or as stated before, with not having the ecm bracket bolted down to the bike when starting it, could I have fried something in the ECU that controls the injectors for cylinders one and three?? I'm still researching and trying to find more info on this ebs relay since it seems like mine isn't where everyone says it should be...........

So what next........
 

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EBS relay should be on the upper left side near the radiator.

Injectors 1/2/4 all get their power from fuse F6 which in turn is connected to the EBS relay pin1.
injector 3 gets its power from the EBS relay pin5.

In other words, if the relay fails, only injector 3 would loose its power.
 
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