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Discussion Starter #1
I installed HID on my F4 and was very careful not do cut or damage any existing wires. I thought I succeeded in this, but was wrong, here are the problems I’m facing:

· When turning the ignition key the rpm goes up and down and all displays are working

· When starting the engine, the RPM doesn’t work anymore

· The starter button which is supposed to become the trip meter and clock control doesn’t work, in stead of it tries to start the engine again and is thus functioning as a starter

I double checked everything, from the cable heads from the instrument panel till the connection on the CPU and found nothing wrong.

My question: does anyone knows where the logic is included that controls the starter button (once as starter button and then as trip meter control)?

Is it the RPM sensors that is responsible to tell the unit that the engine is started?

The electric scheme is not detailed enough to figure that out.

Many thanks,



Patrick
 

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pahendri said:
I installed HID on my F4 and was very careful not do cut or damage any existing wires.
First - What happens when you disconnect the HID?
Second - Is it installed with a seperate relay?
Third - The ballast draws a lot of power during the first couple seconds; are you installing with thick enough guage wire?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tom,

When I disconnect the HID I got the same problems.
I used a quite thick wire to connect the balast but didn't use a separate relay, just used the input wire for the original Low Beam to connect to the Balast.

Patrick
 

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pahendri said:
Tom,

When I disconnect the HID I got the same problems.
I used a quite thick wire to connect the balast but didn't use a separate relay, just used the input wire for the original Low Beam to connect to the Balast.

Patrick
Patrick,

You never said; you got the HID (low beam) lit with motor running? Check fuses?

These are all the proverbial "shot in the dark" :) questions, I hope it's simple - not a computer problem.

Tom
 

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As far as I'm aware, the logic controlling the opoeration of the starter button is within the dash. The dash logic uses the tach pulse from the ECU to determine if engine is running or not. The inital tach sweep on power up is part of the dash initialise/test routine and is generated within the dash and not the ECU.

It sounds to me like either the ECU is not generating the tach pulse or you have inadvertantly cut or unplugged the tach pulse/signal cable somewhere along the line. The tach pulse runs on a Grey/Yellow cable from pin 24 of the ECU to pin 16 of the dash.

If it were me, I'd first continuity check the tach pulse/signal cable from pin 24 of the ECU connector to pin 16 of the dash connector. If that checks out, you're going to need to scope the output of the ECU on pin 24, from memory the tach pulse/signal is a 10V square wave.
 

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I would suggest we need to be very carefull with these HID kits, my Audi has them as standard and sometimes when the headlights 'fire or strike' up something odd will happen like the heater blower will momentarily stop, my son has after market HID's on his 4WD, Audi TT engined Mk2 Golf, occasionally when the headlights are switched on the engine will just stop! There appear to be some awfull strange high voltage surges present with these lights, I would be wary of fitting them aftermarket :jsm:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tips, I will start to check. But I agree that the the initial power most be an high load on the power.
 

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could the ballast triggers interferences with the ECU unit ? have you tried unplugging the ballast off the bulb and remove it from the ecu's proximity ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When I switch to the high beam, no power is running towards the ballast (low-beam is turned off). So I guess there is no interference.
 

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I think that you may find that this is not as simple as it seems. I had a similar problem after uninstalling a faulty alarm / immobiliser. I thought that I'd connected all the wires correctly but for some reason the rev counter did not work. I ended up after hours of messing around and endless posts on here taking it to a dealer where they ended up replacing the whole wiring loom. Good luck but from my experience it doesn't sound too good. :flat:
 

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Changing the wiring loom is pretty extreme and the loom itself is very expensive around about $4000.00 AUD.

Looking at your HID kit you can't really stuff the installation up as the plugs are self explanatory and you can't reverse the plugs around. Did you use a extension cable kit as the stock HID ballast has only very short leads?

If you did a home made extension cable then it would be possible stuff the installation by connecting something incorrrecly such as the output of the HID ballast to the output of the stock H3 lights which might do some damage!!!

I'm sure you done this but disconnect the HID ballast and go back to basics, ie check all fuses, then relays and unplug and replug each sensors and connectos etc. Take it back to the dealer if its still under warranty, else find someone who is willing to swap parts until you find the problem.

Oh also check the battery terminals and the earthing stud, bad grounding is a real pain in the ass to find sometimes.
 

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As asked earlier "Did you test the continuity from the ECU to the tach as Hartley recommended "
Did you check continuity of the wire from ECU to meter?:stickpoke

Back to basics...If it was working before, something relatively simple has gone wrong. Worst case would be the HID kit has damaged the ECU....let's hope not, and doubtful.
 

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The only wiring you could get wrong installing an HID kit would be to plug the ballast to the OEM loom the wrong way round, sending a plus to the ballast's minus terminal.

Normaly, the worse case sceniario would be to ruin the ballast as I don't think it is fused.

Where did you locate the ballast ?
Did you extend the leads ?
what have you removed in order to install the kit ?
 

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If you are getting continuity on the tach signal cable from end to end then it's also worth checking continuity/resistance from the signal cable to chassis. It may be that the cable has become damaged and the signal is being 'held low' by earthing to chassis or some other negative conductor. Less likely but also a possibility is that the signal is being 'held high' again possibly due to damage in the loom and the cable is touching an exposed positive (live) conductor, this is slightly more difficult to test but as a rough guide/indicator, with the bike powered up and running measure the voltage on the signal cable, if it's close to battery voltage there is a good chance that it is being held high.

As you have stated that the problem persists with the HID system disconnected or powered down then in my my mind it can only be one of three things as I can't imagine how wrong the install would need to be in order to affect the tach signal when the HID system is powered down. Either the ECU is not generating the tach signal, the dash is not processing the tach signal or there is a fault in the physical electrical connection between the ECU and dash.

I'd be more inclined to put my money on a cable/wiring fault at this stage although you can't rule out the other two at this time. If it does turn out to be an ECU fault and the tach signal is the only problem, then it's not the end of the world as you can probably pickup a tach signal from one of the HT leads (by wrapping the signal cable around the lead). There are also a few relatively basic checks that can be done within the ECU so if the ECU is at fault it may be a relatively simple repair rather than a replacement job. I've never needed to work on the dash internals to date so couldn't help much if any if it turns out to be a dash fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My biggest fear is that the ECU should be damaged. Haven't had time to start testing last week, but hope to find some hours this week.

To be sure, is this the RPM sensor? Because that's where I will start checking, from the sensor to the ECU and then to the Instrument Panel:
 

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Yes, that's the RPM sensor or pick-up coil as it's also commonly (and to me more accurately) reffered to. However, your intial post suggests that the engine starts and runs, if this is correct then there won't be any problem with the pick-up coil. The ECU relies on the signal from the pick-up coil in order to determine when to trigger the injectors and coils, without that signal the engine just simply wouldn't start.
 
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