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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dears,

F4 1078 with 24500kms on clock and a knackered chain. Found the Sigma series Tsubaki 525 chain X ring and both sprockets replaced.

My mechanic upon placing the new chain said he thought of moving the rear tyre towards the engine by rotating the hub clockwise with that U spanner tool so that in the future when it needs to be tightened I have 'room' to do it.

Problem: the rear tyre now touches the left lower side fairing and the rear hub seems to be 1-2 mm out. Has he screwed up sth at the rear? Is it just a matter of adding 1-2 links to the chain (it was almost tight at that position) and getting the rear tyre a little away from the fairing by rotating the spanner anticlockwise? The chassis workshop manual says very little on replacing the chain (with regards to the position of the eccentric wheelhub). Any tips please or things to avoid?

Thanks as always for help
Phil
 

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Bugger

Your mechanic messed up a bit Phil, it's more about common sense rather than relying on the manual. If he added the new chain with the same amount of links that the old one had in, you would have been fine.
If he checked the wheel position and rotation before cutting your new chain, he would have noticed this problem.
There is no defined position for the hub, it's dictated by your chain tension.
You can add another link or two, but I would not like to have two master links on my chain, I would have a chat with the mechanic about replacing that chain.

What do you mean your hub is 2mm out ? Where ?
I hope he is torqueing the pinch bolts for the hub back up to spec !
 

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And don't forget ride height.....if you have moved the hub that far the ride height has definitely been affected. Part of significant chain adjustment is also resetting ride height.....it's in the manual.
 

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And don't forget ride height.....if you have moved the hub that far the ride height has definitely been affected. Part of significant chain adjustment is also resetting ride height.....it's in the manual.
Ed, it's 6:38am........you must be sitting on the john, eh? :stickpoke
 

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Ed, it's 6:38am........you must be sitting on the john, eh? :stickpoke
Not yet....up at 5:15....fixed breakfast, cleaned up the kitchen...packed my girl off to work.

Morning constitutional and shower shortly then off to the north....Indy MotoGP beacons.

:f4:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. Yes the rider height. I forgot about that..I guess seat must be lower now..

Dons agree 100% I already requested a new chain. The hub came out a bit when looking at it from the rear. On the right hand side of the toothed part I can see a shiny thin 'ring' of metal so since its one part I guess its the hub moving towards the chain-left. I am assuming that with the pinch bolts loose the force required to turn the toothed part with the spanner is enough to force the hub out...?? Or am I seing things?
Thanks again
 

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The hub came out a bit when looking at it from the rear. On the right hand side of the toothed part I can see a shiny thin 'ring' of metal so since its one part I guess its the hub moving towards the chain-left. I am assuming that with the pinch bolts loose the force required to turn the toothed part with the spanner is enough to force the hub out...?? Or am I seing things?
Thanks again
Sounds wrong, very wrong (like don't ride it!) , can you post a picture ?
 

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????

sounds like the mechanic screwed up the chain length like Donsy said

AND then tightened the pinch bolts, BEFORE tightening the sprocket nut.....

as I see it thats the only way the wheel can be too far to the left
:jsm::jsm:

:jerkoff:
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but you could slacken off the hub pinch bolts and there will be no left movement of the axle/wheel ?

There is a shim/caliper mount bracket/shim, brake rotor mount against a machined shoulder on the swing arm itself. Seager rings are in there and it has been designed and engineered so that this left movement can't happen providing of course the components are correctly assembled.

I just went to my shed and did this to my spare swing arm and there is indeed no left movement with the pinch bolts fully slackened.

If the swing arm bearings were knackered that would introduce a bit of play..

Joe
 

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Joe, would you come over and adjust my chain?:smoking:
 

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:laughing:
 

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Joe;
given the quality of work performed by professional mechanics lately:wtf:

1 Honda car;
>i could not remove 3 lug nuts with a 1/2" CP air impact, the same nuts broke a SnapOn 1/2>3/8 adapter and broke a tire wrench i've had for 55 years.....maybe they're over torqued????
>wrong oil filter
i bought a new larger impact socket.....she'll be here in a few minutes

3, 312s;
>chain adjusted to 20mm (1)
>pinch bolts torqued to ~ 50 lb/ft (2 bikes same shop)
>wheel nuts that make a 1/2" CP air impact sweat (all 3)
>caliper bolts so tight couldn't undo them with a 3/8" ratchet
>fast idle didn't work (2)

my F4;
>cams 1 tooth out of time
>cam bearing block bolts torqued to ~80lbft, sheared a 5mm SnapOn Allen socket trying to remove them(all bolts replaced)
>pinch bolts over torqued

'08 Mustang;
>1 1/2 qts extra oil in the sump
>filter finger tight, seeping
>drain plug so tight i needed a flex head to undo it, and it seals with a O-ring.....they put Teflon tape on straight threads:wtf:

i don't think the backing guide pin and slot will let you move the tire far enough to make it stop (200x60 excepted :laughing:)
 

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stuff

Joe;
this shit just blows me away......

when i was 5 my Father said "you ride in the car, you will to learn how to take care of it"

he put a long hose on the grease gun and i pumped the grease

I started getting paid for working on Ferraris and Masers et al when i was 12

so cutie pie comes by with the Honda Element.....
on the rears you need a 12mm and 17mm to pull the caliper out of the sliding mount...
on the front??????
only a 12mm..... the other end is rectangular and a shoulder stops it from turning

a fuckingamazing

never mind that the warning scraper is on the moving pad, not on the fixed or both

jackass engineers:wtf::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff:
 

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I have a Moto Guzzi V12 Sport..I have a service invoice for it showing four new spark plugs at the previous service.
The inner ones can't be seen unless you remove the tank.

I removed the tank and the plugs were rusty as heck and definitely weren't changed at the last service
( they were due a change ).

They are hard to get at and quite expensive.

The dealer is a leading Italian Specialist in the South of the UK. I hear people telling me how good they are all the time.

I now have a stock of these plugs ( which also go on some Ferraris lol ) and there are two nice shiny new ones on my bike.

I care about my bike...That's why they are there.

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks for comments. Finding a descent mechanic is not easy. Any part of the world from what I read. And I agree the best thing it to service yrself. But its not always easy. Knowledge and some technical ability aside you must have time. And in my case is non existent.

Back to the issue: I did change the rear tyre as well. Somewhere between tightening the wheel nut, the sprocket nuts and the pinch bolts the whole geometry of the bike changed. The left lower side fairing got twisted towards the centre of the bike..anyway he slackened the eccentric hub and now it looks ok. My question remains- why the hub was out for a mm or so when he tightened the chain at the fullest with the spanner.. No apparent hub damage evident before, no swing arm bearings faults, 1st change of chain etc. The whole thing just came out. Not just to the left.
 
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