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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys/Gals
I've searched high and low for some info on discarding the keyed ignition and replacing with a button or switch for my track bike.('08 312R)
I have a very limited knowledge electrically but am great at following instructions. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance
 

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Have a look at the schematic. The main switch only has 2 wires to energize the system. The other wires are for purposes unrelated to the bike running.

Your bike doesn't have an immobilizer function (I don't think), so a simple single pole on/off switch should be easy.

Here is a screen print from the 1000R. I don't have a 312R schematic, but I will wager they are the same.

R is battery power, R/G is switched power feed to the bike.
 

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Out curiosity check out this switch from Mouser Electronics. Seems like it'll do the trick rather nicely. Simple black white leads but the illumination may pose a draw, not sure about that. Anyway, it's interesting as a possibility or idea generator. Jetprime makes worthy race/street handlebar switches. I believe I saw a keyless ignition switch for Aprilla on their site.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/PV6F240SS-221?qs=QtyuwXswaQit9qa64Z7sDQ==&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqMz_276l4wIVSeDICh1B7Q4TEAYYAiABEgLKUvD_BwE

https://www.mouser.com/new/eswitch/e-switch-pvt4/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Fellas,
something to get me started.
Esq'z me,I have the electrical schematic and they are the same. No immobilizer either. I gather that the letters are related to colour eg. R-red and RG - red back ground with green line or stripe? I would like the dash to still function so the other wires would have to be involved....or not?
Those switches, Edward, are pretty much what I would be after. I could possibly fit it it into the recess where the ignition sits, with a bit of fibreglass work.
It is a 12 volt system but does the Amp capability of the switch (2 amp in Edward's suggestion)play an important roll?
Sorry guys, electrically dumb here. Got an idea what the answer will be but have to be sure.
 

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Yes...colors. Red and red with green tracer. These are the only wires you need worry about.

The other 2 are related to lighting. Parking lights as example.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
MV factory always putting in an extra challenge......
Only one wire matches the schematic. I worked out, however, that the red and the green/black are the two that I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I removed the ignition and cut the wiring at the base of the unit. Levered the outer plastic casing off the barrel and cut the barrel away to create room for the new switch. Fitted the new switch into the top of the casing and wired it up accordingly soldering the joins and shrink wrap. All works just fine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still have a little problem with the dash activating when the ignition is off. This has been happening for some time. I have to disconnect the battery to shut it down.
The bike won’t kick over when starter button is pressed but it goes through the start up process where the tachometer winds out to full and back. The dash lights don’t come on either.
Attached pictures are Ignition off and Ignition on.
Any ideas.....?
 

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Still have a little problem with the dash activating when the ignition is off. This has been happening for some time. I have to disconnect the battery to shut it down.
The bike won’t kick over when starter button is pressed but it goes through the start up process where the tachometer winds out to full and back. The dash lights don’t come on either.
Attached pictures are Ignition off and Ignition on.
Any ideas.....?
What did you do with the other two wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The other two wires are disconnected.
The problem existed prior to the conversion. When the keyed ignition jammed I decided to do the conversion and hoped that it might cure the issue. It is a dedicated track bike with the original wiring loom. All accessories have been removed (lights etc.)
 
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