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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Brutale Dragster 800 rr 2015.

So i've been having issues with juice. So the symptoms is the bike doesn't start. I think the battery is slowly draining to the point it doesn't have enough juice to fire it up. I tend to get an E00 battery error code. On holding in the started button and pulling in the clutch (sprag issues) the biek attempts to turn over then stops and the dash dies on me.

What have I done to try to remedy this? I've replaced the OEM SLA with a Yuasa YTZ10. Twice.
I've also swapped out the regulator/rectifier for a part from https://www.boonstraparts.com/.
Second hand I know, but I thought it would be ok.

The problem still persists.

I've got a voltmeter turning up tomorrow to check across the battery and to check voltage on starting and a load test. I'll post these results up for more information when I have them.

It has oxford grips on it that are hooked up to the battery. Which I think coincides with the start of the issues. I'm going to disconnect these from the battery as the weather has warmed up now.

It also has a tracker on it.

My question is this. How do i check the regulator is doing it's job properly and that the problem isn't further up the foodchain, i.e. the stator etc. Which I don't think it is as the bike runs fine for a week or so.

Any advice is gratefully received.

cheers.
 

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"the bike attempts to turn over then stops and the dash dies on me"

Your battery is empty/dead. Put your bike on the charger when you get home from riding. After every ride.
If your battery isnt holding its charge, its a broken battery get a new one.
 

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The tracker will draw a surprising amount from the battery but it sounds as if the issue is with the hot grips.

My understanding is that these really shouldn't be connected directly to the battery
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cheers.

Could be a coincidence, surprised that 3 batteries would be dead in quick succession.

Don't worry about the manual, it's already downloaded :).
Read up on the testing, but can't do until the multi meter turns up.

I'm at work so cant check directly, so sorry if stupido question and apologies in advance if I'm an idiot.

But, this battery here. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WJYZFA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it has the same spec as the OEM one?
 

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I'm going out on a limb here and assuming you are not stupid. Of course baiting doesn't' help.

You can continue to replace batteries until the cows come home, but if the problem reared its ugly head when you did the grip installation, then the problem is related to that.

If the problem started when you installed the immobilizer, then the problem is related to that.

Disconnect one and fully charge your battery. See what happens. The try it with the other.

As for the Yuasa YTZ10S...that is the battery that I have in all of my MV Agustas. It is the battery I unapologetically recommend.
 

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You may need to do a current draw test with your multimeter.
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Connect red probe to battery cable.
Connect black probe to battery terminal.
Reading should be less than 50mA.
If it is above you need to start disconnecting accessories to see where the current draw is from.
Before you do any of this your battery must be at full voltage.
Good luck.
 

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I don't see any mention of a battery maintainer/tender. Do you have one? Do you park where there is a power outlet? With the addition of your heated grip and tracker you have more potential parasitic drain. Motorcycles notoriously ruin batteries due to low useage and small capacity. So, even if there is a problem keep the bike on a tender.

Love the Dragster RR. It was my gateway drug!
 

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If you are drawing, say 45mA from your tracker/alarm then that will kill a new battery dead in around 150hrs of no charging.

Fwiw-I have Oxford heated grips on mine...cause no problems.

Get a new battery, fully charge it, fit it and fire the bike up. Rev to around 4000-5000 The voltage across the battery terminals should be between 14v and 15v. If it is your reg rec is fine.
 

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If you are drawing, say 45mA from your tracker/alarm then that will kill a new battery dead in around 150hrs of no charging.

Fwiw-I have Oxford heated grips on mine...cause no problems.

Get a new battery, fully charge it, fit it and fire the bike up. Rev to around 4000-5000 The voltage across the battery terminals should be between 14v and 15v. If it is your reg rec is fine.
That voltage spec is incorrect. See post 3 above.
 

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That was at just above idle. Automotive batteries need between 14v and 15v to charge. Which is why I said to raise the rpm to 4000-5000
 

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The rectifier/regulator should limit voltage to 14.5 volts or you are overcharging.
 

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It's not "whatever". Increasing voltage in a DC circuit increases current in that circuit. Increasing current in a given DC circuit increases heat produced. The circuit is designed to handle a specific amount of current flow before the heat generated will destroy the circuit...i.e. melt wires, cause a fire, bend battery plates, etc.

You want to destroy battery after battery? Then simply overcharge them.

The spec is stated in the manual. It is also stated that if the voltage out of the regulator is greater than 14.5 volts, then that is a problem.

The phrase "whatever" implies that you don't care about reality.
 

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As a physicist, you should certainly care about intelligent discussion. Whatever is dismissive and rude.

Being a physicist versed in Electrical Theory, why would you advise someone to run their system out of specification?
 

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There are some bikes out there with charge system specifications of 14.5~15.5 volts. Charging rates up to 16 volts will not damage the battery, more than that and you run into lots of other problems like blown light bulbs and toasted solid state devices (ECU...etc).

The Suzuki GSX250R as an example has a specified charge rate of 15.5 volts.

Regardless.....easy to test the system.
 
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Mornin', Ed...love your work. As I've said before: This ain't no Gixxer Forum. The spec for this bike is posted in #3 above. It may handle extra voltage...I'm not worried about batteries here, they're pretty robust...but, the circuitry may not.

Proceed at your own risk.

'nough said from me...carry on.
 
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