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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello guys like written in my other post


i bought a F4 1000R from 2007 which was a 3d puzzle for grown ups. In this tread i will keep you updatet how it goes on.

My starting point with the bike looked like this ...

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The former owner had problems with noise in the engine and brought the bike to a shop which stripped it to look what is wrong. Unfortunally they found damage in the crankshaft of cylinder one because the lower conrod bearing was destroyed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Because i was a little bit confused why this are so many parts (they only had to remove the engine) i decided to put the frame parts together to have a rolling chassis which is easier for me to handle. I also wanted to have a first look how the bike would look when it is completet ...

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
After that i worked on the only real problem with the bike - the out of work engine. So i started with disassembling and inspecting the damage. Like you could see in the first picture the whole head, cylinder, clutch and piston number one with con-rod were already removed when i became it. So i removed the remaining parts - starter engine, alternator, gear, water and oil-pump and splittet the housing.

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Wow! Quite the project! I also have a 2007 F4R and had the intake cam sprocket bolts break, causing 8 bent valves and a damaged cam lobe. Welcome to the club. Lots of good information to be had here and I'm sure any questions you have will be answered. Best to replace rod bolts, cam saddle bolts and cam sprocket bolts with high-grade hardware to avoid future problems.
 

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Thanks for sharing the process !!.
You might be on the look-out for a good engine from a wrecked bike.

On another subject...could you take a note of the bearing size on the transmission main shaft, left end within the transmission plate? Another member is seeking that info to buy a replacement.
Of course, that would mean removing the shaft from your assembly if you wouldn't mind.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
..
On another subject...could you take a note of the bearing size on the transmission main shaft, left end within the transmission plate? Another member is seeking that info to buy a replacement.
Of course, that would mean removing the shaft from your assembly if you wouldn't mind.

View attachment 498960
Sorry but i have already repaired my engine in the mean time so its not possible for me to look at but ... if you look on:


for the F4 1000R built in 2007 it says:

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that position 4 (MV-Part-Number 8000A1086) is a roller bearing(needle bearing) with an inner diameter of 24mm and an outher diameter of 40mm - looks for me like a special bearing outside the norm, only for MV Agusta perhaps. There is nothing written about the width, so the other member should measure the width of the old bearing and also the outher diameter because there are bearings available with 40,25mm outher diameter and 24mm inner diameter (Zylinderrollenlager 263-904 - 24x40.25x26 mm | 123kugellager). I dont know what "SP1" is standing for.

The part " 8000A1086 " you also can find here (looks like they use this almost in every bike only with different prices)

 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Next step:
Because i already knew that the crankshaft is gone i ordered a used one in good conditions (a new one at MV would cost me over 4.000,-€). Next step was du measure all the diameters of the crankshaft and of the connecting-rods to inspect them if they are still usable and get the needed dimensions for the bearings. I ordered the new bearings and also a new cylinderhead gasket like the old one with 0,55mm thickness because the old one was not usable anymore. After that i cleaned all the engine parts which brought me the next surprise .... in the wather channels arround the cylinders there was a white powder which tourned out to be limestone. So i had to remove this also after crushing it with a screwdriver to get it out. Seems like the former owner didnt use the right coolant for the bike or used it on a racetrack.

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Back in 1970's Britain coolant was more commonly known as anti freeze and as a result Triumph dealerships ruined many a Stag engine by using water in the cooling system of what was a mixed metal engine. They thought that ethylene glycol based coolants were only required in the winter and I've seen many Stag engines with warped heads as a result of overheating due to blocked cooling galleries.
It's hard to fathom how anyone in this century could be either so uneducated or such a cheapskate as to use tap water in any cooling system, never mind one in a high performance engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
and on we go:
as the next step i started to mount the cylinder head and before that i measured all shims from the valves and checked the valve clearance. Then the intake ducts were mounted.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I also had to replace the air filter (never seen one that dirty). The clutch basket also looked extremely dirty (pictured: left half still dirty, right half cleaned) and was cleaned like all other engine parts before mounting. I suspect the last owner rarely if ever had a service on the bike.

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New shims or did they measure out fine? After looking at the air filter condition I would think worn out shims would be evident. Lack of care.

Do you have a running list of items replaced? That would be interesting to see as an aid in understanding your speed of this rehab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
valve play should be (according to the engine service manual)

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because it was in this dimension i was able to use the old shims.

I have a List of the most replaced parts which looks currently like the following:

  • used crankshaft
  • gear oil 10W60 - 3 liter
  • cylinder head gasket
  • clutch cover gasket
  • oil-filter
  • gasket paper 0,5mm thickness (for self building the oil-pan gasket)
  • big end half bearings
  • rod bearing 2-5 (blue)
  • rod bearings 1-3-4-6 (blue)
  • 2 original turn signals for the rear
  • engine sealant
  • 12v 8,6 Ah Batterie
  • Oil-Filter HF554
  • stainless steel material Ø8mm for building the rod between clutch cylinder und the clutch (part was missing)
  • oil-pressure switch (part was missing)
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And so it looks if the engine is finally back in the frame.

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after that i mounted the sidestand on the oilpan (i have never seen such a mounting point before) exhaust manifold, cooler and hoses, spark-plugs and of course all the cables. Unfurtunally the plugs are often the same and the colours didnt match with the wiring scheme i had so i mixed them up - that happend by the sidestand and neutral-gear plug and cost me a fuse. The same happened by the two plugs on the left side for the engine and water temperatur but the only issue was no temperature seen in the dash - no fuse that blows.

Finally it was time to fill water and oil in the engine, i mounted the airbox and tank and also the rear end of the bike and checked if the whole electric is working.

After some troubleshooting with the turn signals - you have to mount both sides to get them working correct - it was time to hit the starter the first time .... untill now i only had turned the engine by hand to check if that works
 
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