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Any you guys had trouble removing the back wheel nut to take the back wheel off. I cant seem to open mine.Before you ask its a 1000s I removed the clip and know its reverse thread.
 

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use search.....

Noel-theknurl
Hey that's what I was going to say :)

Anyone who has owned an MV long enough to have to change the tyres has experienced the rear nut setup - there's a new thread on this every week - pun intended?

The removal advice doesn't change
 

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Rents;
when i came on the Forum earlier.....after answering the question.....the thread under it was asking the same question, hence my response.....

come on, people look, i'll help almost anyone..... lol
but, please, use search, it works

Noel-theknurl
 

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Good idea not using the search. Within 8 minutes of posting you had the two methods of doing it. Post the question, let the dog out, get a beer. Come back, refresh the page and there's your answer.
 

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A quick snatch

Any you guys had trouble removing the back wheel nut to take the back wheel off. I cant seem to open mine.Before you ask its a 1000s I removed the clip and know its reverse thread.


FWIW

If you are using a poxy 1/2" bar to try and crack this MoFu you may as well bang your head against the wall :banghead:

All the effort exerted goes into and gets absorbed by the flex in the bar itself, it beats me why they even bother producing those puny 1/2" drive sockets in the first place!!

I struggled for years with this problem and then saw the light.

The trick is this..................

Get a 'Fuck-Off' fat 3/4" or 1" drive socket and a 6ft breaker bar, and 'Hey Presto' one quick 'snatch' :naughty: clockwise and its off.

I can even do the job on me own now I have some proper

'Man Sized Kit'


Happy Daze!!

:smoking:
 

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There have been many threads on this subject, I think the question was posed last time, 'why have the MoFo that tight in the first place?' The clip and the left hand thread should prevent it coming loose providing it is fairly tight. So once you do get it off, I'd consider refitting at a lesser torque value.
 

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tight

hey John;
i agree 100%.....its like an old VW Bug, you're supposed to torque the rear axle nut to 295Nm....its got a massive 40HP! and whats the side load on a rear wheel....zip....the rear hub is splined to the axle you can finger tighten the nut, put the cotter pin in and drive forever,
there is NO rotational load on the nut, therefor the cotter pin will live forever or until you need new brakes...lol

look a rwd auto.....are the front axle nuts tightened at all? nope
you tighten the nut until the play is gone then back it off to the 1st cotter pin hole.....this is for tapered roller bearings!!!!

is there side load on the wheel? yup, 3 tons of SUV and 10"-12"wide tires and you crank really hard on the steering wheel....what do you think?

there are 100s of millions of vehicles that have gone billions of miles without problems....built like this so WTF

me i'm backing mine off and adding a cotter pin, a positive locking device......

a while back, a girlfriend had a Jag XJS....rear wheels were a little loose ....there are spacers between the tapered roller bearings....fuck that
tossed the spacers, adjusted it like a front wheel, put a dial indicator on it. then it went out and threw it sideways, put the indicator back on it, no change

sometimes they let people with no mechanical experience design things....not a good idea....like the 3810-2RS rear hub bearings....they are robotics bearings designed for accurate location and intermittent use with 1/2-1 HP DC stepper motors...NOT 170 HP!

they could have used an annular contact ball bearing cartridge out of a front wheel drive car and it would be cheap and never fail....

Noel-theknurl
 

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I had the same problem with the Brute. Found out that I reinstalled the nut without and grease/lube at all on the tarpered conical mating surfaces. This produced a tremendous amount of galling which made it crazy hard to break the nut loose. Thought we were gonna greak it.
RFE
 
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