tight
hey John;
i agree 100%.....its like an old VW Bug, you're supposed to torque the rear axle nut to 295Nm....its got a massive 40HP! and whats the side load on a rear wheel....zip....the rear hub is splined to the axle you can finger tighten the nut, put the cotter pin in and drive forever,
there is NO rotational load on the nut, therefor the cotter pin will live forever or until you need new brakes...lol
look a rwd auto.....are the front axle nuts tightened at all? nope
you tighten the nut until the play is gone then back it off to the 1st cotter pin hole.....this is for tapered roller bearings!!!!
is there side load on the wheel? yup, 3 tons of SUV and 10"-12"wide tires and you crank really hard on the steering wheel....what do you think?
there are 100s of millions of vehicles that have gone billions of miles without problems....built like this so WTF
me i'm backing mine off and adding a cotter pin, a positive locking device......
a while back, a girlfriend had a Jag XJS....rear wheels were a little loose ....there are spacers between the tapered roller bearings....fuck that
tossed the spacers, adjusted it like a front wheel, put a dial indicator on it. then it went out and threw it sideways, put the indicator back on it, no change
sometimes they let people with no mechanical experience design things....not a good idea....like the 3810-2RS rear hub bearings....they are robotics bearings designed for accurate location and intermittent use with 1/2-1 HP DC stepper motors...NOT 170 HP!
they could have used an annular contact ball bearing cartridge out of a front wheel drive car and it would be cheap and never fail....
Noel-theknurl