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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys - I am desperate :(

I wanted to get change my tyres - firsttime since my Dragster RR came from factory. Front wheel - no problem at all, BUT - rear wheel cannot by disassambled - with mechanist we try all, huge leverage - nothing. We tried tu use even penumatic pistol with power of 1 000 Nm - not a chance to move the hub by a milimeter. We tried to use pistol with hor air for a hub, but carefully and froze dowm the hub and then use pneumatic pistol again ... but nothing. I have a suspision that guy in factory used some glue on hub or something ... Have somebody faced the simillar issue as my? I'd appreciate every advice before I go to my dealer with it. They gave me the slot for check on 23rd of May ... which is crazy ....
 

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Um, you know the wheel nut is left hand thread.......
 

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:D Really? :D Ofcourse it's left hand thread - nothing new... any another smart advices? :) Thanks for entertaining :)
 

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Adam, the number of people who don't realize that is astounding. The closing torque is 240 nm and shouldn't be that difficult. One member here had to go to extraordinary measures to remove a hub nut for a Brutale 910s.

Galvanic corrosion between the face of the hub nut and wheel taper as well as the thread surfaces is usually the culprit.

Sorry if I am stating the obvious, but drench the connection in a penetrating oil like Kroil and let it soak, rap it with a metal mallet and hope it breaks the seal.

Keep us posted.

Chuck
 

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I had a very tough time getting the rear wheel nut off my 910R for the first time after I bought it.

I ended up buying a cheaper torque multiplier and a mating a speedymoto socket to one of the 1" drive impacts it came with. Works a treat, was able to get the nut off with one hand.

We affectionately call it "The Persuader"
 

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The first time I took the wheel off, I went to a truck tyre specialist, and they used their rattle gun on it. I hand tightened it to a lesser torque for the 2 minute ride home and then did what I needed to do.
 

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I know a guy who has/had a Brutale 800 Italia Ed. He took it into the dealer and even they had to heat the nut to get it off, knackered the wheel and put in a warranty claim for a new one!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks, budy. Sorry for my sarcasm comment above. I will try to apply your advices and will let you know about result.
 

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I know - sorry - I used incorrect words - smarter now - thanks :)
No worries man, I'll change your heading later. How did you get on, got it of yet ?:surprise:
 

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Not yet :( ,

going on Thuesday to meet the guys from garage - our plan is to prepheat the nut cca to 100 Celsius by electrodes mounted directly to the nut and use WD40 - this should make a chemical reaction with that "baked" mess in it and will try to get it off - that's the plan. If not - going to dealer and will try resolve it via warranty. Will see - I'll keep you posted about result.
 

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?

raiden;
Don't use WD-40..... it's about useless, use a 50/50 mixture of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and
acetone......the guys on the North Sea oil platforms came up with it
I've been using Kroil for over 40years and it's great..... acetone and ATF is better

put it on the axle threads and the taper on the nut .....give it 8 hours and apply again...

Remember to put an anti-seize compound on the threads only when reinstalling the wheel nut

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks - will try it as ultra last try till I go to dealership. Today is the Day and we are going to try handle it - fingers crossed
 

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You should not have to use heat.Try and avoid that.
All you need is brute force.Whether it is a large air impact gun or a strong arm bar with a length a pipe on the end of it.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mitchy, you're right - we changed our minds in last moment about use the heat. As a last chance is to go to garage with trucks and use their air gun - should be much stronger than reguelr ... will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
GOOD NEWS!!!!!!

Tyre changed / nut went off. I went to the truck garage due to their more powerful air pistol, BUT, guy from garage told me that we should use first normal air gun and apply some dissolution fluid/remover. I told him, that we use all we could before ... . He insisted to aply his spray ... so he did and we waited aprox. 15 seconds, no more, then took the the regular air gun and nut went off easily. I hope this will help everyone with similar issue - down below I attached pics of work on bike and that magic spray - the full official name is: Berner Premium Rust Remover Ice

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR ADVICES
 

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...and you can see the corrosion on the threads....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
...and which was removed, cleaned up and the thread was covered by thin leyer of vaseline ... ;)
 
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