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Alright I got my Ohins TTX installed today with of course a little bit of excitement and I cant believe I did that. But its in. Now the shock was set up by Dan Kyle for my weight and riding style. Now do I have to do any other setting to the bike with it in? Like sag? And Will I be reversing whatever Dan did to the shock if I make adjustments?
 

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You mean you are already out of the bedroom???? How long were you in that God forsaken place and away from that smoking hot woman you left at home??? :wtf:

If you were a Brutale rider instead of an F4 weenie you would most likely still be wearing her out and looking for suspension settings for the mattress instead of worrying about suspension on the bike :stickpoke
 

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You mean you are already out of the bedroom???? How long were you in that God forsaken place and away from that smoking hot woman you left at home??? :wtf:

If you were a Brutale rider instead of an F4 weenie you would most likely still be wearing her out and looking for suspension settings for the mattress instead of worrying about suspension on the bike :stickpoke
Well actually I had to give myself a break! It started in the airport parking lot! But she went to work the next day to give me a break believe me The work bench in the bedroom has been getting re broke in! And Im improving my time by leaps in bounds the 3rd time lastnight I made it to 10min including foreplay!!!
 

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Dan sends the shocks with the recommended Ohlins settings. The TTX shocks have proved race valving and he doesn't revalve the shocks just springs them correctly for you.
You will need to set the sag at 30-35mm of rider sag. I keep seeing a lot of reference to static sag here but Dan & myself believe only rider sag is important. You should then setup your front to be 40mm of rider sag.
Can anyone confirm or deny the stock spring is straight rate or progressive?

Setting up the TTX is easy. Compresion you want to dial it to be firm and compliant with just enough squat not to affect traction. Rebound, make sure it can come back from bumps without packing down. You are more than likely 3 clicks away from perfect on each setting which is why Dan and Ohlins are so great.
 

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The spring will be straight, not progressive, in the OEM shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so he doesnt do any dailing in? Because when this was bought I was told all I would have to set was the sag and the shock was coming dialed in ready to go.
 

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How is he supposed to set preload without the shock being installed and you sitting on the bike? He can set the bastic rebound and compression settings but you have to fine tune them after installation.
 

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so he doesnt do any dailing in? Because when this was bought I was told all I would have to set was the sag and the shock was coming dialed in ready to go.
It is dialed in. To set the sag you adjust preload. Don't mess with the rebound or compression damping settings he has "dialed in".
 

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I have one of Dan's TTX's on my Brutale. I have not done anything to it other than ride it. We checked the sag and it was fine. The bike feels fine and it is a definite improvement over the Sachs.
 

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Dan sends the shocks with the recommended Ohlins settings. The TTX shocks have proved race valving and he doesn't revalve the shocks just springs them correctly for you.
You will need to set the sag at 30-35mm of rider sag. I keep seeing a lot of reference to static sag here but Dan & myself believe only rider sag is important. You should then setup your front to be 40mm of rider sag.
Can anyone confirm or deny the stock spring is straight rate or progressive?

Setting up the TTX is easy. Compresion you want to dial it to be firm and compliant with just enough squat not to affect traction. Rebound, make sure it can come back from bumps without packing down. You are more than likely 3 clicks away from perfect on each setting which is why Dan and Ohlins are so great.
I don't disagree with this. I have always thought rider sag is what mattered because the bike goes down the road with you on it, not by itself. The problem was coming up with acceptable rider sag numbers. The factory doesn't publish them. Using the conventional wisdom of 35ish front and 20ish rear, it was impossible to achieve that with the factory recommended static sag numbers.

It would be interesting to see if using the factory static numbers gives 40mm front and 30-35 rear rider sag.
 

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Carl, not that I'm disagreeing with you but, as I understand it, the reason that there is a combined bike & rider sag is that the 15 mm bike sag is there is to allow the rear shock to over extend during race speed deceleration. You can set your preload to have a minimal (say , 5 mm) bike sag and acceptable rider sag. This is often done on standard shocks for heavier riders who can't or won't change the OEM shock. First, they set an acceptable bike sag (15 mm) then get on the bike and to check the rider sag and find they are way over the recommended rider sag. Only solution if you don't change the spring rate: Increase preload. Now the rider sag will be in the ballpark but there will be minimal bike sag (<5 mm).
Symptoms of minimal bike sag: Flighty rear tyre that feels like it's searching for the track / road. Much like setting too much rebound damping.
Dave.
 

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I'm reading the Andrew Trevitt Suspension Tuning book and the static sag is there for the bike to be able to extend during accelleration as castle eluded to. This also keeps the squat and anti-squat forces equal.
Keep in mind on my 1098, I have a 8.5 spring which according to Race Tech I need a .75. With the 8.5, the bike sags 20mm on it own weight and only 10mm with my weight so given all of these numbers, I would need an even stiffer spring so the bike's weight can't move the shock...which I would guess would make my ride harsh as hell.

Andrew does say that the new ultra adjustable forks and shocks shoujld be within the following ranges
Front Sag: 30-50mm (Dan is recommending 40mm now)
Rear Sag: 25-25mm (Dan is saying 30mm & if fast on the track 25mm)

There is a bunch of other nonsense about using preload to change geometry and ride height. It gets real deep into stuff that I dont want to mess with right now. I'm trying to keep it simple, want to turn faster lower front or raise rear, set sag, dial in rebound and then compression.

Funny to get front end feel I 1) removed 2lbs of tire pressure, 2) added rebound, BUT the book says raise the fork tubes to weight the front more which makes sense but who do you believe Dan Kyle or some journalist?
 
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