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Discussion Starter #1
Ive had my 1090rr for three weeks now, havent been out on it much due to the weather being crap at the moment. the bike goes and looks great but i have read about problems with the rear hub and i cant get it out of my mind, on a scale of 1 to 10 how worried should i be about it.
 

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1 , just check as per the service manaul ,and keep on riding,its not just going to pop out ,and your rear wheel flys past you.Now if you are paranoid just grab the back wheel with your 2 hands and try moving it side to side,no movement no worries,ride hard .

cheers eddy
 

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What year 1090RR...2010 and on have the upgraded hub. Maintain it and be happy.
 

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You have no worries. The design has been changed to something more robust.
I was paranoid for the first 6 months, checking before and after every ride for filings and wheel play. 31000kms now and no issues at all - regreased every service.
I am still paranoid about chain tension. It must be correct or loose to ensure no force on the hub with the wheel travel. I believe the only recorded failure on a late model bike on the forum might have been due to a tight chain.
 

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MV Rear Hub

Whitey,

The hub collapsed on my 2009 1078 at 5000k. Replaced it with the upgraded hub. Initially paranoid and checked it regularly. Been on some long fast rides lately. Runs a lot cooler than the original. No problems, so on the scale I'd say 1. Regular maintenance checks of course.

Cheers

Deano
 

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2010+ models had a different design hub which apparently resolved the issue (I state apparently simply because we haven't heard of any failing but doesn't mean they haven't).

Don't worry about it!
 

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hubs?

given, both my MVs have Mitch hubs......

the 1st generation hubs have 1 needle bearing(which never fails) and a 3810-2RS double row annular contact ball bearing, which is what fails

the 2nd generation "improved" hubs have 2 of the needle bearing that never fail and a 810-2RS single row bearing

so the bearing that controls axial play in the new hub has 1/2 as many of the same size balls in it as the old failure prone bearing

real geniuses designing this stuff:jerkoff:

as i recall from the survey......
the lowest mileage failure ~800 mi is a 2nd gen "improved hub"

i posted the torque values on the pinch bolts that distort the rear hub, yes, chain tension can contribute to bearing failure, but compressing a bearing to the point it has no internal clearance is a guaranteed recipe for failure

people assuming that pressure washing is causing the rust/failure need to look at the situation.....

the bearing runs so hot it heats the air in the hub, expelling it, as the hub cools, it draws cool DAMPair back into the hub between the inner race and axle

i have yet to see a 3810-2RS with rust on the outer race......
the hub cools faster than the axle/bearing because of its heat sink, the swing arm
every inner race/axle is rusted

i even drilled a vent hole in my Mitch hubs.....Mitch's engineer didn't agree....my hubs can not thermosiphon moist air, period

Mitch hubs use 2 SEALED bearings and a O-ring between the axle and bearing

the Factory INA bearing have dust covers not seals:jerkoff::jerkoff::jerkoff:

a Mitch hub is bulletproof and costs far less than the Factory "updated hub/axle"

take your pick
 

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Great post Noel,and very well explained:yo:I have recorded 4 Y10 hub failures so far,the reason I have no idea:jsm:Time will tell how the upgraded hub goes,it's only early days.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The first few post gave me loads of confidence, Then the last couple put me right back down. knurl can you tell me what the torque is for the pinch bolts please, and what should the chain be at cheers whitey.
 

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Manual states 28 - 32 nM torque. My original hub failed after 10 months at 28 nM and I now torque my pinch bolts to 26 nM since fitting my Mitch hub with no problems.......Hope this helps!


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Cheers MV boy, big help, I take it you do have the 1090 not the 1078.
I have a 2009 312r mate but my friend has the 1078 and his hub pinch bolts are the same torque setting as mine. There should be a sticky label between the pinch bolts stating 28 - 32 nM but like already stated on here, even 28nM can be too much torque.....Mitch or Noel and a few others are better placed to comment but my advise is a point in the right direction


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whitey,don't stress mate.The 4 failures I logged on the Y10 models were very low mileage bikes,so probably due to a faulty bearing from new,or owner/bike shop lack of knowledge adjusting chain too tight or pinch bolts not tensioned correctly.As long as you follow MVs owners manual on servicing the hub and correct chain/pinch bolt tension you should be OK.
 

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I got some Penrite HTB grease as supplied on my Mitch hub from Australia but at a great cost for shipping but............
I also use Fuchs Silkolene Pro RG2, available in UK and loads on eBay ;) ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1363715944.216574.jpg
 
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