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Discussion Starter #1
Will an aftermarket F4 rear hub assembly fit an F3?

I've seen ones sold by Design Corse and was wondering if I can use that. OEM replacement is expensive as quoted by my mechanic.

Any input and insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The quick answer is yes, but not heard of F3/B3 hub failures, how many miles, was it serviced inspected at 7.5k service?

The aftermarket options are a Mitchy hub or Design Corse one, or a s/h F3 B3 or any out of the newer bikes, certainly a few around with bikes being written off/broken.
 

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Will an aftermarket F4 rear hub assembly fit an F3?

I've seen ones sold by Design Corse and was wondering if I can use that. OEM replacement is expensive as quoted by my mechanic.

Any input and insight would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry to hear about your failure.Second one I have heard of on a F3.Has the hub been serviced at regular intervals?Even if the hub has been serviced the wheel side bearing can collapse at any time without much warning.Like Jim said the F4 late model hub is the same and will fit.With my hub I supply a spacer to suit your model at no extra charge.Where in the world do you live?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hub failed at around 35500 kms, about 2 weeks ago. I had just completed a 600kms ride on the weekend. Parked the bike. 2 days later wanted to ride to work and noticed something was wrong. Parked bike and brought it in for service.

Bike has been service at authorized MV mechanic for all 6k kms oil changes and 12k kms services. I'm just looking for options other than replacing the old one with an OEM assembly. The shop will try and repair the hub but gave me a warning it may have to be replaced.

I dunno. 36000 kms and the hub went. I'm not happy it did but I figured that's a lot of riding.

Mitchy: in Toronto Canada.

Edit: 2013 F3 675 went on the road in March 2013, so just under 2 1/2 years of riding.
 

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According to the service schedule the bearings where supposed to be serviced at 12k and 24k, replaced at 36k. You almost made it, sorry to hear about your failure, hope it's repairable.
 

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Now the maintenance manual declares clearly that the hub has to be replaced at 36000km.
Further a OEM rear hub costs roughly the same as a Mitchy or Design Corse hub.
The service intervals will be the same on either of the hubs.
Now peoples tend to exchange the wheel side bearing/bearings.
This is not MV specific but might works too.
 

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Be interesting to see the failure mode. There's a needle roller bearing both sides so if the wheel side ball bearing fails then the roller should support the axle although it would be a bit contaminated with flak.

joe
 

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Now the maintenance manual declares clearly that the hub has to be replaced at 36000km.
Further a OEM rear hub costs roughly the same as a Mitchy or Design Corse hub.
The service intervals will be the same on either of the hubs.
Now peoples tend to exchange the wheel side bearing/bearings.
This is not MV specific but might works too.
Hi Ralf,just one comment,how long since you checked the price on a OEM hub,you might be surprised.In Australia the OEM hub is double the price of mine.:jsm:
 

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Hi Ralf,just one comment,how long since you checked the price on a OEM hub,you might be surprised.In Australia the OEM hub is double the price of mine.:jsm:
Mitch I just researched it.
The OEM hub cost 488 Euro @ startwintrading.
Your hub is offered @ ebay by You for 531 Euro or for 788$ @ GP Racing.
The Design Corse hub costs 670 Euro.
Now having a pre 2009 bike You will need a conversion kit if You change the first time to the 2010 hub, because of the design changes at the new hub, with the matching new axle.
The kit costs roughly 780 Euro.
If You want to keep the old axle than the DG or Your hub are the choices
But he has a 2013 F3 and only needs to change the hub.
 

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Mitch I just researched it.
The OEM hub cost 488 Euro @ startwintrading.
Your hub is offered @ ebay by You for 531 Euro or for 788$ @ GP Racing.
The Design Corse hub costs 670 Euro.
Now having a pre 2009 bike You will need a conversion kit if You change the first time to the 2010 hub, because of the design changes at the new hub, with the matching new axle.
The kit costs roughly 780 Euro.
If You want to keep the old axle than the DG or Your hub are the choices
But he has a 2013 F3 and only needs to change the hub.
OK Ralf,I did not realise you could buy a OEM hub without an axle because over here you have to buy the hub/axle combined.My apologies.
 

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I must say it has me really intrigued how the oem hub has failed. I have seen tight chains and pinch bolts done up with a rattle gun, but it makes you wonder.
 

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?

According to the service schedule the bearings where supposed to be serviced at 12k and 24k, replaced at 36k. You almost made it, sorry to hear about your failure, hope it's repairable.
hubs are supposed to be REPLACED at 36,000km......along with the front wheel bearings

which is complete BULLSHIT

I seem to be missing something here......

Mitch's hub outside dimentions are the same as a 1st Gen bike....

BUT they fit a 2nd Gen bike with his hat section spacer

the difference in the axles is the length of the wheel side land for the 2nd 5520 bearing

and the chickenshit 6810-2RS bearing

so it seems that Mitch hub or a 1st Gen hub will fit with Mitch's spacer......on a 2nd

Gen bike......

WTF do I know? I have 25,000mi on my Mitch hub........and I HAVEN'T LOOKED AT IT

to the OP is your axle still good?

:drummer::drummer:

:popcorn:
 

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fragile pieces?

Hi , my F3 2011 has 40600km, first regrease at 18000km, the very few OEM grease was dead (red smelly sticky).second regrease at 34700km with the same premium product.
I can say that the rear hub was getting hot a lot from the start (new), afterwards, with good grease it stays under 50°C, even with long spirited rides and tracks days. I think the load becomes worse for the bearings when the weather is hot.(tribological aspects):blah:
PS , I ride always solo on the bike (=no passenger ), I think that plays also.
My wife's bike (F800S bmw) had the rear doublebearing broken at 24000km, most of the time duo rides with some luggages.:popcorn:
 

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The main problem with the hubs is the heating and cooling affect which causes condensation and therefore slowly destroys the small bearing (wheel side) MV Agusta decided to use.So a stronger hub with bigger bearings has a longer life span.High quality grease also helps.:)
 

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The main problem with the hubs is the heating and cooling affect which causes condensation and therefore slowly destroys the small bearing (wheel side) MV Agusta decided to use.So a stronger hub with bigger bearings has a longer life span.High quality grease also helps.:)
Mitch;
the later hubs use 2 of the same 5520 needle bearings and a SMALLER 6810-2RS

single row bearing :jsm:


:popcorn:
 

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Yes that's right Noel,so if the shitty wheel side bearing collapses it has the centre needle roller bearing to support the wheel from wobbling and try to kill the rider.I spoke to Mick about you drilling a pilot hole in my hub to reduce condensation and he said it's a good idea.:)
 

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And bear in mind the MY10 single row wheel side bearing slides into a outer rubber seal. So in effect it appears to be isolated from radial loading and to be there to soak up axial loading.
I dont know where people will get replacement rubber seals from in the future. They wont last for ever.

Joe
 

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And bear in mind the MY10 single row wheel side bearing slides into a outer rubber seal. So in effect it appears to be isolated from radial loading and to be there to soak up axial loading.
I dont know where people will get replacement rubber seals from in the future. They wont last for ever.

Joe
I just cleaned and regreased the bearings in the hub of my 2013 F4RR. The "rubber seal" is a 2mm section O ring. Very high tech and turns the ball bearing into a thrust bearing. Clever guys these Italians!

Tony
 
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