As I explained in an earlier post, I had been advised by an MV dealer Service Manager that the main reason for the consistent failure of the rear brake was due to an MV design flaw. The flaw being the master cylinder too close to the exhaust and, consequently, failing due to excessive heat buildup. I was advised to make a heat shield. Really?
Last weekend I decided to check this out. After a nice high speed run in 100F+ weather, I stopped the bike and checked the nice decorative black heat shield covering the exhaust. It was pretty warm but by no means capable of boiling brake fluid. I could also put my fingers on the cylinder without bodily damage. The cyclinder is partially protected by means of the exhaust pipe shield. As well, there is a comfortable air space between the cylinder and the shield and the shield and the exhaust.
You are correct. For reference, flesh burns at 130 degrees F and most brake fluids have a boiling point well above 300 degrees.
Now, go move your reservoir above the ABS system and let physics work for you!
FYI, there is a st my thread in the 3 cylinder maintenance section that discusses this in depth.
Hi. When you say move the reservoir above ABS system, do you mean to run a new very long hose up to a new location under the seat? Is this a kit one can buy? My 1098 Ducati has a similar Brembo (non ABS) and it never has a problem. Thanks for tips!
I don't think they boil the brake fluid when at speed. Like overheating of the bikes, I think the most damage is done in stop and go traffic and waiting at lights.
Try riding at slow speeds (20-25 mph) when first getting on the bike and using the back brake (only) to activate the ABS system which typically purges the air within the ABS system.
Since having the TSB done for the rear brake and using this method I've not had any repeat rear brake issues. North American MV rep provided this direction to me directly after the TSB completed for poor rear brake performance.
Now that is interesting and I will try. Had a successful rear brake bleed by my mechanic last week. So far, none of the bleeds have lasted more than six months.
There are numerous accounts of air in the rear brake system of several models of the 3-Cylinder bikes. I was perusing a Ducati Forum and ran across the following issue with the crimping on certain ABS equipped Ducati bikes. As this issue pertains to a very similar, if not the same, equipment on...
Because of degradation I’d dissimilar materials and differential pressure leakage or ingress paths.
If the reservoir were the highest point in the system, then the tank would act as a proper Head Tank and maintain fluid supply pressure high enough to minimize air in-leakage.
After purging the rear brake from the reservoir to the caliper twice, and having it fail shortly after, both times... I found a service bulletin on this forum on purging the ABS system. I performed the ABS purge exactly and have been happy with the rear brake since.
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so no one can fix it.
That service bulletin (referenced in this very thread) has been performed on many bikes that eventfully fail again.
Please keep us posted on how long your bleed lasts......
Hello. My son helped me, who is a gear head. He uses large syringes on both ends to draw the new fluid up and extract any bubbles. His bleed kit has adapters, but I am not sure how he secured the lines from making a mess. Usually there is a color change when the new fluid reaches the top syringe. I hope this was of some help. I am sure there are other ways to do this.
So let's update this thread. After I originally posted this, I moved the master up behind the right side panel. I'm not sure if it's the highest point in the system but it's definitely higher than the ABS unit. The rear brake has been working great ever since.
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