[voy333]

As the title says I have lost all the pressure in my rear brake. As sill as it may sound does anyone have an idea what is the size of the bleeder valve on 2016 F3 800 rear brake ? I want to beed them and get the speedbleeder valve but the more I research of their sizes ... the more headache I got.

Please advise- I've look in the manuals, searched forum etc can't belive that nobody has changed the stock bleeder valve =]


Thanks in advance !

 

[esq'z me]

Standard motorcycle brake bleeder valve. 8 mm wrench flats. I think 6 mm hose will fit on the nipple.

 

[theknurl]

?

As the title says I have lost all the pressure in my rear brake. As sill as it may sound does anyone have an idea what is the size of the bleeder valve on 2016 F3 800 rear brake ? I want to beed them and get the speedbleeder valve but the more I research of their sizes ... the more headache I got.

Please advise- I've look in the manuals, searched forum etc can't belive that nobody has changed the stock bleeder valve =]


Thanks in advance !

I can't believe you didn't buy a $2 plastic vernier caliper and fucking measure it yourself >

 

[Ducati23]

Deleted as some information was posted in error. Sorry

 

[voy333]

Cmon guys, if it was that easy I would have never posted here askin ... check out how many different types are there ... nothing on this bike is universal lol

Ps. I wanna be ready to bleed it, I dont want to find out I ordered a wrong thread size or pitch ?

 

[Ducati23]

Deleted - Sorry

 

[Kageira]

-Redacted-

I have a feeling voy333's reply wasnt for you

 

[voy333]

I have a feeling voy333's reply wasnt for you

Indeed Ducati23 I was NOT reaplying to YOUR comment/advice-which I have always trully appreciated. IDK If I made it "vocal" in the past but out of thousands of members your imput always had more meaning than some other so don't take my post the complete other way ... I was using my phone and have not seen your reply before I posted mine :/

I was just under the impression that if I could swap it immediately it wouldn't introduce as much air in the system as taking it out for a longer while and then having to spend so much more time on bleeding the whole thing ... never had a bike with ABS so I'm not looking forward to having to bleed the entire thing

Anyways, as always thank you to those who actually took time and effort to help me out/guide me.

 

[theknurl]

?

It is a standard Brembo bleeder nipple. If you change to Titanium or speed bleeders the rear caliper is generally the M10 x 1.00. (A few billet rear calipers use the odd sized M7 bleeder but normal for Brembo is the M10, there are also some out there with M8 bleeders) Your bleeder nipple should be the M10 that comes standard on the various PF32 rear calipers that MV uses. The hex size can be 8mm, 9mm or 11mm. Each have been used from Brembo. Usually see the 11mm used on the front brake master, but have seen them on rear calipers from time to time. NOTE: The hex size doesn't matter, only the thread pitch and size is a concern in your case.

Weak & spongy rear brakes are well known and documented here on the forum. Use good fresh high temp fluid, take the caliper off the rotor and place it above the master while bleeding, this makes the job easier and faster. Let physics assist you in resolving the problem. Best of luck :smile2:

Did you try to make so many mistakes?????

4 pad Brembo calipers
banjo bolt, 14mm hex M10x1.0
bleeder, 9mm hex M7x1.0

MonoBlocks
banjo bolt, 12mm hex M10x1.0
bleeder, 8mm hex M6x1.0

Nissin rears
banjo bolt, 12mm hex M10x1.25
bleeder, 8mm hex M8x1.25

Bleeding Brakes without using bleed screws.......

Remove caliper
rotate hose fitting to the high point
hold the caliper as low as possible
starting with the pistons farthest from the M/C
push them all the way back in
block them with a wedge
do the next ones
block them with a wedge
on the front, repeat with the other caliper
remount the caliper/s
ALL THE AIR IS NOW IN THE M/C
rotate the M/C so the return port is the high point
gently pull the lever/pedal a short distance repeatedly, until you stop hearing/seeing bubbles
remount the M/C
pump the lever/pedal until you feel resistance

You're done :grin2:

 

[esq'z me]

That's how the Motocross techs do it track side.... fast and easy.....

Just make sure you don't overflow the master cylinder reservoir when you push the caliper pistons in.....and get all the old fluid out of the reservoir (syringe and rags) and refill with fresh before you pump the brakes back up.

 

[theknurl]

?

That's how the Motocross techs do it track side.... fast and easy.....

Just make sure you don't overflow the master cylinder reservoir when you push the caliper pistons in.....and get all the old fluid out of the reservoir (syringe and rags) and refill with fresh before you pump the brakes back up.

Ed;
You forgot to tell them to use the M/C to purge the line to the bleed fitting of old fluid by just opening the bleed fitting
Then close the fitting and pump the pistons back out.....now the caliper/clutch slave has a mix of old and new fluid
With a zip tie pull the lever/pedal and close the return port
Now open the bleed fitting and push the pistons back in again.....The mix of old and new will come out the bleed fitting
Now close the fitting and pump the pistons back
Top off the reservoir and you're good to go :grin2:

 

[Mario Landavoz]

I just performed the rear brake bleed procedure outlined here:

Rear brake bleeding

For all wants to know how to bleeding the rear brake :grin2:

www.mvagusta.net

It's sort of a PITA due to the amount of disassembly required, but it does what it is supposed to do. My rear brake is back to what it was when new.