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It is a standard Brembo bleeder nipple. If you change to Titanium or speed bleeders the rear caliper is generally the M10 x 1.00. (A few billet rear calipers use the odd sized M7 bleeder but normal for Brembo is the M10, there are also some out there with M8 bleeders) Your bleeder nipple should be the M10 that comes standard on the various PF32 rear calipers that MV uses. The hex size can be 8mm, 9mm or 11mm. Each have been used from Brembo. Usually see the 11mm used on the front brake master, but have seen them on rear calipers from time to time. NOTE: The hex size doesn't matter, only the thread pitch and size is a concern in your case.
Weak & spongy rear brakes are well known and documented here on the forum. Use good fresh high temp fluid, take the caliper off the rotor and place it above the master while bleeding, this makes the job easier and faster. Let physics assist you in resolving the problem. Best of luck :smile2:
Did you try to make so many mistakes?????
4 pad Brembo calipers
banjo bolt, 14mm hex M10x1.0
bleeder, 9mm hex M7x1.0
MonoBlocks
banjo bolt, 12mm hex M10x1.0
bleeder, 8mm hex M6x1.0
Nissin rears
banjo bolt, 12mm hex M10x1.25
bleeder, 8mm hex M8x1.25
Bleeding Brakes without using bleed screws.......
Remove caliper
rotate hose fitting to the high point
hold the caliper as low as possible
starting with the pistons farthest from the M/C
push them all the way back in
block them with a wedge
do the next ones
block them with a wedge
on the front, repeat with the other caliper
remount the caliper/s
ALL THE AIR IS NOW IN THE M/C
rotate the M/C so the return port is the high point
gently pull the lever/pedal a short distance repeatedly, until you stop hearing/seeing bubbles
remount the M/C
pump the lever/pedal until you feel resistance
You're done :grin2: