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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Has anyone experienced this issue? When braking, the rear brake doesn't work at times.

I apply both front and rear simultaneously. The rear pedal keeps going down with no braking. Sometimes, it does work correctly with no sign of the issue. The tech at the local Ducati dealership looked at it and found nothing wrong. He has nothing to suggest! What's the issue here?

Appreciate the help. Thanks.

cheers. henry.

stats: 2007 1000R, about 11k miles
 

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Sounds like the rear brake master cylinder is bypassing.New seals in the master cylinder will be required.
 

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Yes, or you could just replace it. They're cheap enough. I don't know who makes a rebuild kit for them.
 

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I've learned the only thing the rear brake is good for, is keeping the brighter tail light on at the stoplight.
 

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Not a functional one :( very ineffective for anything but holding the bike at a stop or for torquing the rear wheel.

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Hey guys. Has anyone experienced this issue? When braking, the rear brake doesn't work at times.

I apply both front and rear simultaneously. The rear pedal keeps going down with no braking. Sometimes, it does work correctly with no sign of the issue. The tech at the local Ducati dealership looked at it and found nothing wrong. He has nothing to suggest! What's the issue here?

Appreciate the help. Thanks.

cheers. henry.

stats: 2007 1000R, about 11k miles
I had the same problem. It was more noticeable after the bike warmed up and master cylinder hot from exhaust. I replaced the fluid and bled the system. Works fine now, so mine probably had air in the line and old fluid. It would be a good place to start anyways.

I usually fully drain the system then add fluid from the caliper up to the reservoir using a 60ml syringe. Then do the usual bleeding process, but not much air in the system when I use the syringe. I tighten everything up then put system under pressure overnight by putting weight/tie on the foot pedal. This usually brings any left over air up to reservoir, and to check if system holds pressure.
 

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Hi Henry. The bad rear brake topic has been around for years, and affects the F4 and B4's, even the new models to some extent.
If the seals are not damaged as Mitch suggested, or even if they are and you replace the master cylinder, then it would be worth you while to remove the rear brake caliper and service it properly.
Re-bleed the whole system with new fluid, all the way from the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot gentlemen; appreciate the suggestions and comments. Admin: sorry, didn't realize this post had to be in this section; thanks for moving.

Brutal1078:
I have scheduled an appointment to bleed and replace the fluid. Sadly, I don't have the skills to do these sort of stuff on my own; so, can't follow your steps. I am going to have to trust the technician's skills who would do the work. Thanks. (and, I miss Bay Area!! will be back some day!)

mitchy, CAG,
Thanks guys. This is my step 2, if bleeding doesn't solve it.

mv2envy, pacecarjeff, Reckler:
Besides the situations you described (or wondering the presence of rear brake), the rear brake is useful if stopping/slowing down is required at low speed such as making a U-turn or winding parking ramps, etc. I am sure you can relate to these scenarios. It's my habit to apply both simultaneously. In some situations (U-turn?) applying rear brake is the most prudent way to slow down as front brake could upset it.

Donsy:
Hi Dons. Thanks. Let me start with bleeding; and, move on to Master cylinder.

Thanks again gentlemen. Will update what worked.

cheers. henry.
 
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