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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!

I removed both my wheels a few days ago, to get new Pirelli rubber on .. Front wheel bearings were shot -- rumble- rumble .. :| No biggie .. they are easy to get locally so they will be changed for some high quality new ones -- They lasted 24.000 km it would seem -- :nerd2:

Now to the rear -- I removed the wheel -- not too much of a bother - wheel nut was tight, but came off without excessive violence or big rattle guns ..

Now that I had the wheel off and the bike up on centre support, why not check the hub, clean and grease up? --- so off with the sprocket nut, carrier and washer -- Well --- I have a problem! I can not push out the axle .. or pull it -- even some slight abuse in the form of some hard raps with my rubber mallet does not budge it .. WHATS up? should it not just slide out? -- I have tried to follow the manual and hub-change instructions to the letter ..

Any advice would be greatly appreciated .. :grin2:
 

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Yes, it should slide out, but yours will need some persuasion. As we used to say in the NAVY: Get a bigger hammer!

You should spray some kroil or other penetrating oil liberally around the axle and let it sit overnight.

Then get a soft piece of hardwood (oxymoron alert!) and a bigger hammer.

You will need to rap the daylights out of the axle...toward the sprocket side...and break the corrosion binding your axle into position.

There are horror stories of things people have done.

All of this is preventable on reassembly if you use a proper anti-seize assembly lube.
 

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Like Chuck says.
Support the bike safely,large hammer and a block of wood.
Then give strong sharp blows,it will move.
 

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DKDravis;

Go go a machinist, have a 50mm piece of aluminum bar stock 100mm long machined to 42.5mm for ~ 80mm.......

If you use a wooden block and hit it off center it will egg the end of the axle and the nut won't go back on......

I watched it happen......in my shop

also put a strap through the brake disc and around the swingarm...... otherwise the axle will go flying

Also use Kroil or a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and Acetone.....you only need a few drops

:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks!

Hi again!

Thganks for the advice -- Thats precisely what I went ahead and started doing --

Disaster naturally struck when trying to get the axle out -- my precious MV fell off my work lift, hit my Duc on the way down .. :crying::crying::crying::crying::crying:
It could probably have been much worse, but fortunately I got off with a completely broken windscreen, a snapped off footpeg, a broken rear indicator an a slightly damaged mirror.. and a few scratches on the paint .. I'm still a bit in schock though .. :surprise::frown2::frown2:

No visible damage to the Ducati ... phew ...

Now I will machine myself an aluminium "plug" Do the "ATF+Acetone" treatment and hit the thing some more ..
 

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Oh No,that is not good,but I did say support the bike safely.
I feel for you mate,don't beat yourself up about it,accidents happen.:wink2:
 

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Fkn hell ! I feel so sorry for you ..Ouch !

Noel the Knurl knows lots more than me but if ever I need to persuade a wheel spindle which effectively is what this axle is Then I will loosen the nut and then with it only slightly away from tight apply the blows to a soft piece of hardwood ; ) to the nut...rather than risk damaging the axle threads and in the case of the hollow axle egging it.
I still wouldn't want to be hitting too hard if your nut is aluminium as most are if not aftermarket steel one.

Also ..given that we have the luxury of a hollow axle..Why not spray it inside with plumbers freeze up spray then some boiling water on the outside of the swing arm...and do this after the overnight Kroil application..

In short do everything you can so that the knockometer is used the very minimum ...

If you put a note in wanted on the forum you may get some good deals for the broken bits and not have to wait an eternity to get back on the road.

Joe
 

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Joe;
Don't do it that way.....if it's the slightest bit stuck, you'll just ruin the alloy nut......

When they're stuck I use my Grandfather's 4 pound single jack.......and have to wail on it
 

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Mine will just slide out with the pressure from my pinkie finger ! Nothing like a bit of lube !

Cheers Noel

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
All is well (Almost .. :-D )

I finally got around to finding a piece of 52 mm aluminium bar stock -- fired up the old Colchester and turned myself a proper axle "punch"
By the time it was ready (And me :wink2:) the hub and axle had sat for 3 days with ATF/Acetone -- it still took som hard knocks to get the thing out ..

Fortunately both the roller bearing and the sealed bearing were fine .. so everything was thoroughly cleaned, regreased and reassembled ..

I just got my new windscreen today, so now all thats missing is sorting the broken mirror stem and mounting new LED rear indicators -- Then I can go and scrub in my brand new Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsas .. I'v gone all the way back to the OEM sizes fitted: 120/65 front and 180/55 to see how the bike handles on those smaller tires .. I have two track days coming up in the next two weeks .. should be fun .. >:)
 
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There is nothing like doing the hub service check yourself and knowing that all is well. It make the next time even easier and satisfying - I'm assuming you followed the torque setting guides when you re-assembled?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Torque settings -- whats that? :-O

I have 3 "levels" of Torque "wrenches" from 0 - 60 inch/lbs -> 5 - 50 ft/lbs -> 50 - 350 NM -- So I guess I'm covered :nerd2:

Setting the 55 mm wheel nut at 220 NM takes a bit of careful blocking of the rear wheel .. the rear brake will not hold that sort of torque .. not even close >:)
I do not set the Sprocket carrier nut at more than 180 NM - There is really no need .. Just do not forget the lock- rings/springs - I lock tie the wheel side nut with an extra piece of racing wire. the "internal" lock ring on that side seems a bit "flimsy" to me ..
 

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Setting the 55 mm wheel nut at 220 NM takes a bit of careful blocking of the rear wheel .. the rear brake will not hold that sort of torque .. not even close >:)
220 NM = 162 ft-lbm. Your rear brake should certainly hold that sort of torque. I do this quite a bit and my wife comes out, leans on the seat, grabs the rear brake and pushes down, I set the torque and we're done in under 5 minutes.

And no, she is not one of those SSBBWs! Here is a picture of her shoveling snow:

Snow Shoveling Girl.jpg

If your rear brake cannot absorb 220 NM of torque, you need to repair your braking system. I'd suggest, at a minimum, bleeding the system thoroughly. My rear brake, on my 312R is capable of stopping my bike from speed........................................................eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Rear brake not good ..

@ "silentservice": Inspired by your comments on the rear brake, I went ahead, and bled the system .. That made a slight difference .. but still not enough to hold the 220NM torque .. So, something was not right -- The way I normally do this is to use a padded C-clamp to compress the brake cylinder -- This was discarded in favor of my 16 yr old daughter sitting on the bike and using all of her 90 pounds to bear on the brake pedal .... still not enough -- :| Something was clearly out of whack ..
1: Check state of pads, clean thoroughly with brake cleaner -- OK -- still no go ..
2: change fluid and bleed -- OK - That did the trick!!:laugh: I suspect that the people who sold me the bike 3 years ago, did NOT change fluids on it as promised at sale.. Basterds .. :thewife: So no way of knowing how old the fluids are = changing them all now!!! For all I know they may be the original fluids from the factory -- I did bleed the front system last year, because I found the front brakes a bit too spongy for such a bike -- they had a lot of air in there, but after bleeding that out, the front brakes seemed fine to me -- The fluid there seems fine to me -- But now they will be changed, just on the suspicion ---- At the same time I will install my nice new dual brake lines and the top bleed double banjo bolt -- I've done that mod on all the Ducatis I've had over the years, and it has always improved feel and ease of bleeding the system.
I'll post a thread with pictures of that later ..
 

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Result!
 

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You folks are doing something WRONG......
I don't use anything but the friction of the tire on the concrete......

I stand on the left side of the bike facing the rear, I insert a 10" extension on the torque wrench through the axle from the left
I then lean on the seat and mount the socket on the extension.....I put my left hand on the socket and pull up on the torque wrench

done!

:grin2:
 

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You should see what she wears when we tighten my nuts!
 
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