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However Also been told I can swap mine from one side to other and raise about 20mm, guide for this? Advice?
That is terrible advice in my opinion, I've ridden an F4 with bars swapped over like that and it's extremely awkward and uncomfortable, rather try those bars you mentioned or some of the other options that's available like the fully adjustable bars. Remember that you don't have too much room for lift or your reservoirs will hit your fairings.
Keep the weight from your wrists by using upper body strength to support your weight.

PS. Welcome to the forum.
 

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Fast by Ferracci sells a nice set. Call them, they are very helpful.http://www.ferracci.com/
Have them on my F4, good improvement.
Best thing is core strength to grip the tank with your legs and take the weight off your arms most of the time.

Ed S :)
 

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If you have a 750 the 1000 clipons have a different bend and are considerably more comfortable
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cheers guys.

Its a 1000R 2007 and Im from the UK
 

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That is terrible advice in my opinion, I've ridden an F4 with bars swapped over like that and it's extremely awkward and uncomfortable, rather try those bars you mentioned or some of the other options that's available like the fully adjustable bars. Remember that you don't have too much room for lift or your reservoirs will hit your fairings.
Keep the weight from your wrists by using upper body strength to support your weight.

PS. Welcome to the forum.
Each to their own I suppose. I've done it and find it made a massive difference to comfort. Then again, I've spent many years riding bikes with flat bars rather than slopy clip-ons.

I'm intrigued as to why you would find this set-up awkward, yet not another manufacturers clip-on which does ostensibly the same thing - raises the outer ends of the bars without raising them at the point they mount to the forks - which you then recommend ........

You have to remove the brass ferules that locate the switchgear on the bars, or re-drill the bars. I stopped the switches being able to slip by wrapping the bar with a thin strip of double-sided tape. You also have to swap around the fork-clamp pivot pins so they still locate in the underside of the top yoke.

Doing this stops your hands getting trapped against the air tubes on full lock, but the carbon knuckle guards on my gloves just touch the underside of the mirrors on full lock instead ..... Though that's really not an issue (and certainly not as much as trapping your hands as per OE).

I'd say try it and see - if you do it the way I did, its very easy to reverse it if you don't like it. You might lose a day, but you might also save yourself several hundred quid too ......
 

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Kinda with Donsy on this one. It`s a rather Mickey Mouse setup to reverse them.
 

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Kinda with Donsy on this one. It`s a rather Mickey Mouse setup to reverse them.
Intrigued as to why it's "Mickey Mouse"? As I've said above, it has exactly the same result as spending £275 on a set of the performance parts.de bars - the fork mounting position stays the same, but the outer ends of the bars are raised by approx. 20mm (the Max you can go without clearance issues).
 

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Intrigued as to why it's "Mickey Mouse"? As I've said above, it has exactly the same result as spending £275 on a set of the performance parts.de bars - the fork mounting position stays the same, but the outer ends of the bars are raised by approx. 20mm (the Max you can go without clearance issues).
Show us a picture of your bars like that on the bike mate.
Swapping the bars over on the 1000 inverts them so much that the ends are higher than the front of the bars, as you would expect when you turn a downward slope the opposite way round.
With the bars I mentioned you can turn the into "Flat" bars.
 

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Oddly enough, I just went and took some pics. I reckon if I didn't mention it, no-one would see a difference from stock. And Donsy, sorry but you're wrong - the outer ends are not higher than the inner. Plus, if you did/could set the bars to "flat", they'd foul the fairing ..... '05 1000s 1+1 with stock bars inverted:





 

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Or just sit tight , close up to the tank like we are s'posed too. This makes a huge difference on an MV.

joe
 

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Oddly enough, I just went and took some pics. I reckon if I didn't mention it, no-one would see a difference from stock. And Donsy, sorry but you're wrong - the outer ends are not higher than the inner. Plus, if you did/could set the bars to "flat", they'd foul the fairing ..... '05 1000s 1+1 with stock bars inverted:
It's far to inverted for my, it felt real awkward to me, and the owner was delighted when I swapped it back for him, but fair call, each to their own.
As for the adjustable bars, keep in mind that the starting point for the bars are quite different to OEM, and you can rotate them around the fork leg also.

Thanks for taking the time to take the pics mate, I'm not arguing, just what I thought, the OP can make a better decision if he has more info in the end.
 

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Or just sit tight , close up to the tank like we are s'posed too. This makes a huge difference on an MV.

joe
Sadly there is something that gets in the way of me doing this ..... :jsm:

I'm trying to reduce it, but it's hard work :naughty: :) :ahhh:


And Donsy, no worries ..... and as I've said before it is easy to reverse the process, so for the sake of a day playing with the bike well worth the effort of giving it a try to see if it works for the individual. I have a suspcion though, that if you don't like the position doing it this way, then little else will work either without the risk of reducing clearnce for the M'cyl reservoirs ..... which will mean changing the m'cyls too .... by which time you're heading for a £7-800 bill!!

I had a lot of problems feeling comfortable on my F4 when I first got it, and looked closely at the (very few) options out there to raise the bars a little. If you look at them, the performanceparts.de bars are actually very similar to the '05 F4 bars in how and where they mount - there really is very little option, given available clearance - and the only benefit they give over what I have done is they offer a greater range of variance between stock and inverted, those two being the ends of the available clearance spectrum. Stock fouls the airtubes, inverted you touch the mirrors. As I said, I have ridden bike with flat bars for years prior to the MV, so a more horizontal position feels more natural to me over a more vertical, racer type, position.

You are able to rotate the stock bars around the forks - you just lower the clamps a touch so the pivot pin doesnt locate in the underside of the yoke, or file off the top of the pivot pin. I didn't find any advantage in doing that though (I did try). The stock fairing really gives little room for manouvre, as the bar gap is so small - I am told (by the chaps at Design Corse) that using a race fairing can improve the amount of clearance you have to play with ... but that can open up all sorts of other issues too ....

Interestingly, look at many of the litre capacity MotoGP bikes, and the WSBK bikes, and they seem to opt for a flatter and wider bar too ..... I guess it gives better leaverage. At the end of the day though, It's whatever feels most comfortable and works for the individual :)
 

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Sadly there is something that gets in the way of me doing this ..... :jsm:

I'm trying to reduce it, but it's hard work :naughty: :) :ahhh:
Ha ha , I asked for that !

Yes either keep tight or smack em up the tank protector when you brake hard :jsm:

Seriously tho, I was taught by a track training guy that a big part of my discomfort on an MV ..neck ache and wrists , was due to not sitting correctly. I followed his advice and found a massive improvement .

Joe
 

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Hahaha ..... my position restriction is not due to something that is determined at birth, but rather a lack of self control ...... I think ladies call it the "plus-size" figure?

Oh, and there's a substantial edit to my earlier post now ....
 

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And as a final comment, now I have swapped the bars, and put the foot-pegs to their most rearward position, I find the bike to be "all-day" comfortable ..... as long as you keep the speed over 60mph. that is the single biggest thing I have found - keep to open roads and over 60, and the bike comes in to it's own. The faster you go, the better it gets. At low speeds and in traffic, it let's you know you are not treating it right by inflicting pain on you ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gotojoe - Im also in Warwick (I work at JLR and live very close)

Sitting further forward on the seat make comfort worse for me! (My (Baby) Brother and Uncle are both Porn Stars ;-) Im not joking either)

After 300 miles over 2 days my neck actually is suffering sat in the office but on the bike its back and legs!

I will drop pegs (and even use those offset pegs you can get even tho they look yuk). I might swap the bars over next weekend and see what happens, the bar risers (35mm) were certainly hit fairing I would say and I havent got much clearance as it is. I could raise the yoke but only by about 3mm (any idea how much of the fork leg I should have showing above the yoke or can I run them flush?)
 

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Gotojoe - Im also in Warwick (I work at JLR and live very close)

Sitting further forward on the seat make comfort worse for me! (My (Baby) Brother and Uncle are both Porn Stars ;-) Im not joking either)

After 300 miles over 2 days my neck actually is suffering sat in the office but on the bike its back and legs!

I will drop pegs (and even use those offset pegs you can get even tho they look yuk). I might swap the bars over next weekend and see what happens, the bar risers (35mm) were certainly hit fairing I would say and I havent got much clearance as it is. I could raise the yoke but only by about 3mm (any idea how much of the fork leg I should have showing above the yoke or can I run them flush?)
Have they got any jobs going !

I fitted Fast by Ferracci footpegs and they help alot.

Here's a pic at Wellesbourne Touch Down Cafe at the airfield. They do great breakfasts. Do you know it ?

joe
 

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