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Discussion Starter #1
After taking on board the advice of this forum to have have the radiator welded properly and not doing an epoxy repair which would have been easy to do in situ , I took it to a radiator specialist.

When picking the item up I noticed the repair looked a bit odd for a weld and he informed me that he had done a chemical weld, as that's what they do on all their bike repairs.

I told him that I wasn't happy with that and I could have done that myself, and he informed me that as the alloy was so thin it wouldn't take a weld without causing more damage. Anyone got an opinion on that.

He also covered the radiator in rattle can silver paint, covering the dead flys and grease, lovely job.

After all that he then wanted to take £50 off me for his services after quoting £30 over the phone for a weld.

Not very happy.

Just for info for any guys in the North West, the firm was Radiator Services in Guilden Sutton near Chester.

Anyhow, it's now back in the bike along with one of Joe's brackets so I hope that is the end of this sorry tale.
 

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I too had this dilemma a little while back, having stripped the rad out I elected to do the two part epoxy radiator fix myself, It went well and I added JOE's custom bracket on reassembly. All good so far.

I too took the view that the thin alloy would not take a weld, that is why I went the epoxy route. Noy saying it cannot be welded, just very difficult to do well imho.

jimboF4
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers Joe

With your bracket in place it should take any stress off the area and any reliance on the repair.

Looking forward to enjoying a few road miles on it this year for a change.
 

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When I had a pin hole in my radiator from fan blade contact (my fault..:shitfan: ) I contacted the premier motorcycle radiator repair shop in the US. I emailed them high res detail photos and they advised me they would repair with metal epoxy (a "chemical weld").
With that bit of information I thoroughly cleaned the area and carefully applied JB Weld. Followed up with some high temp black paint (Brutale rad is black). Barely visible repair if you know where to look.
That was well over 10,000 miles ago. :brutale:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good to hear that the repair has held up.

The things I was annoyed about was the wasted time stripping the bike down to get the rad off when I could have done the repair myself with the rad insitu

Most of the time to do the job was spent trying to get the indicators working after removing the nose fairing. What a bastard job that was. I am seriously thinking of doing a mod to do away with the spring contacts.

A previous owner had already drilled out the locating pins on the mirror bracket one side of the bike, and put in threaded inserts to replace. I had no problems with that side of the bike, but there was one pin missing on the problem side, and it took hours of messing to get the contacts to work.

I won't be removing the nose without good reason after that.
 

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Not on this bike Russ. : ) Can't have any chance at all of oil weeping as it will potentially end up on the rear tyre. This is a work in progress. A bit frustrating tbh but I want it right ...

So, more of a slight rethink and a minor adjustment. I had had some AN 6 fittings welded to the 2010 cooler. There's a pin hole in the weld.:wtf:

I also have seen a nicer way to secure the cooler to the engine with a bracket relocation.

Then I have an idea to sleeve the little stub pipes on the cooler before welding to make a much stronger fitment.


Fortunately for me , I have a second 2010 cooler off the bike which I'll have this work done to. Then its a rapid swap of components...

The leaky cooler will then go in for work to achieve the same end result.

joe
 

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Joe, how about brazing with silver solder? It is lower temp and strong.
 

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Thanks Chuck. Its coming off anyway for bracket fitting and Henry can work his magic.
He already has the spare to fit the an 8s using an improved method.
In the meantime I have a 312 and a Jota in the garage so no stresses.

Ps your packet is posted : )
Joe

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