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Redoing a so called professional radiator repair that was done in epoxy of some type, Questions are what pressure should I test rad to and will leaving cooling system dry for possibly a few weeks ( bike sits in bedroom) cause any issues like drying pump seals etc and what is the best product to use in Australia, brand availability varies in other countries.
Thanks Guys
 

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Redoing a so called professional radiator repair that was done in epoxy of some type, Questions are what pressure should I test rad to and will leaving cooling system dry for possibly a few weeks ( bike sits in bedroom) cause any issues like drying pump seals etc and what is the best product to use in Australia, brand availability varies in other countries.
Thanks Guys
Cus,13psi is ample pressure to check for leaks.There should be coolant in the engine block and water pump area unless you drained the whole system.Water pumps should not be left dry.You can remove it and sit it in a container of water.Auto accessory stores sell radiator sealant products that you add to the cooling system to ensure a good seal to the radiator if you want to make sure of no further leaks.:)
 

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Thanks Mitch.
I`ve drained and flushed the whole system but can put some coolant back in to fill up water pump and tape up openings so it doesn`t stink the room out. Thought about leak stop additives but didn`t know if they might have some detrimental long term affects. Any particular one you would recommend ?
 

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Cus I use a sealant powder I buy from a supplier,it is amazing,mixes with coolant,can seal small head gasket leaks.Just leave it in the cooling system forever,it detects any leaks and seals instantly.Give me your address and I will post you one free of charge.:naughty:
 

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PM sent Mate, Thankyou very much.
Got it Mark.Will post tomorrow.
Instructions are-
Warm engine to operating temperature.
Sprinkle powder slowly into radiator/expansion tank.(Use whole satchet)
Fit pressure cap and run motor for at least 10 minutes (important)
The seal tab (as they call it)mixes with coolant and will seal any minor leaks as long as the coolant is not drained.
Hope this helps you mate.
 

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Mitch, I'm curious: The seal powder must then react when it touches air and reduces in temperature as it passes through a leak.

What happens when you want to drain the system for some maintenance activity?
 

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Your right Chuck,it searches for air,then congeals and seals the leak.When you change the coolant in the future another seal tab is required.

img_2000_640x455_1.jpg
 

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I think the question is when air enters the system during draining what happens to the product? Does it congeal wherever it meets air in the system and congeal inside the cooling system? How do you get it rinsed out before it congeals?
 

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Will do, because that is exactly my concern. Older products, think Zerex, had reported issues with small coolant passages.
 

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Here is their website: http://www.seallock.com.au/index.php/

After reading the limited information there, I sent them an email inquiry.
I'll let you know what the say.

It may be that, if the product is open to air when the system is totally cool, no transition takes place. Hot to cold may be an activator...just my guess.
 

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First I ever heard of this. Do you have more info you could share?
This is ancient news...from 45 years ago. Products change.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
G`day Mitchy,
The radiator additive arrived today , thankyou very much. Will let you know how it goes, will probably be next week before I get to the MV cause of race bike prepping for this coming weekend , If only I didn't have to work I could get more of the important stuff done.
Thanks again Mark
 

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If only I didn't have to work I could get more of the important stuff done.
Be careful what you wish for! I haven't had to work for the last 7 weeks, and I haven't been able to get anything important done.

Full Disclosure: I broke my foot in four places. Rather hinders one's capabilities.:smoking:

Let us know how you get on with the radiator stop leak.
 

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Will do, because that is exactly my concern. Older products, think Zerex, had reported issues with small coolant passages.

On my first F4 the rad split and it was under warranty.

I rang the dealer at the roadside and they said DO NOT put a proprietary radiator repair solution into the system to get you home as it could clog the small passage ways in the cylinder head. He said doing so would invalidate the warranty.

Joe
 

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Just an FYI...the Japanese OEMs add a sealant to the cooling systems on every bike they produce as part of the assembly line process. Suzuki sells theirs as a service product, but the price is stupid so no dealers carry it.

Epoxy repairs of pin hole leaks in radiators is common. I called Myler's Radiator in Utah about my 910 rad when I inadvertently bent the fan mount and the blade rubbed a hole in a passage. They explained their repair would be epoxy in that situation....so good old JB Weld to the rescue. That was 18k miles ago.
 
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