Thanks, the next question is, what`s the correct torque? It could probably just need to detect any sort of strain from it`s stable state before the shift which would negate the need to get that bolt torqued to a very specific number.
Ask your dealer or check the Workshop manual about torque settings, read up about strain gauge operation in other quick shifters, not all use the strain gauge method, some are just a switch. The pressure on the strain gauge determines how long the ignition is interrupted for.Thanks, the next question is, what`s the correct torque? It could probably just need to detect any sort of strain from it`s stable state before the shift which would negate the need to get that bolt torqued to a very specific number.
Why do you need ignition cut on downshift, your throttle is closed, if you think it through you'll see what I meanIf it's really as simple as detecting strain. I don't know why it doesn't cut ignition on downshift.
I mean can it really tell if it's being pushed up or down?
Obviously that wouldn't cause it to blip or rev match but why doesn't it cut ignition to initiate a shift?
I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious. If the strain gauge is programmed to do it, how does it know if you pushing up or down?Why do you need ignition cut on downshift, your throttle is closed, if you think it through you'll see what I mean
How many wires on the F4's unit?
It's not hard these days for software developers to write program's that use downshift auto blipping via quichshifter, It's been used in racing for some time.
In it's own way it works like a double pole or two way switch, this I am assuming, the strain gauge I use have to be aught which way is upshifting, no swapping of wires.I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious. If the strain gauge is programmed to do it, how does it know if you pushing up or down?
Like you say it's not hard for them to do. So why doesn't the auto blip work on MV's? I mean on the "first ride" report in the magazines, over a year ago, they said it worked flawlessly.
I didn't mean you NEED it, I meant it like this - When you're braking and about to downshift, your throttle is closed, ignition is already cut.I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious.
That`s awesome! Thank you sir!See pic
The strain gauge could be directional, working only on upshift.If it's really as simple as detecting strain. I don't know why it doesn't cut ignition on downshift.
I mean can it really tell if it's being pushed up or down?
Obviously that wouldn't cause it to blip or rev match but why doesn't it cut ignition to initiate a shift?
So did you download the Workshop manual ?That`s awesome! Thank you sir!
Have you activated the QS in the dashboard?Mv said that's coming in an update up and down quick shifting and it was one of the things I got the bike for
But none is working so far ,like other things on that bike .
I didn't mean you NEED it, I meant it like this - When you're braking and about to downshift, your throttle is closed, ignition is already cut.![]()
Thanks for bring this up! I was afraid to get in trouble.This i don't follow. Think you can break it down further for the layman here?
When i hear the word "cut" regarding ignition i think of electronically interrupted. Be it by turning the key/kill switch off, or temp. through electronic means via a QS. What i don't follow is when breaking, and about to down shift, means the ignition is already cut???
Sorry, I forgot to add this: :stickpokeThanks for bring this up! I was afraid to get in trouble.
Since I haven't see Noel around much lately Donsy's being the forum curmudgeon. :drummer: