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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone able to find any information on how the 2013/14 Quickshift system is activated through the wire attached to the clamp bolt on the shift lever. Is it through tilt when the lever is moved?
 

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It's a strain gauge inside the mechanism, activated by the amount of pressure applied through the bolt, hard to explain, but it's not a tilt switch.
I do believe the bolt torque tension is quite important, so if you adjust the lever, make sure you get that right.
They've been around in various forms for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, the next question is, what`s the correct torque? It could probably just need to detect any sort of strain from it`s stable state before the shift which would negate the need to get that bolt torqued to a very specific number.
 

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If it's really as simple as detecting strain. I don't know why it doesn't cut ignition on downshift.
I mean can it really tell if it's being pushed up or down?
Obviously that wouldn't cause it to blip or rev match but why doesn't it cut ignition to initiate a shift?
 

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Thanks, the next question is, what`s the correct torque? It could probably just need to detect any sort of strain from it`s stable state before the shift which would negate the need to get that bolt torqued to a very specific number.

See pic
 

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Thanks, the next question is, what`s the correct torque? It could probably just need to detect any sort of strain from it`s stable state before the shift which would negate the need to get that bolt torqued to a very specific number.
Ask your dealer or check the Workshop manual about torque settings, read up about strain gauge operation in other quick shifters, not all use the strain gauge method, some are just a switch. The pressure on the strain gauge determines how long the ignition is interrupted for.

If it's really as simple as detecting strain. I don't know why it doesn't cut ignition on downshift.
I mean can it really tell if it's being pushed up or down?
Obviously that wouldn't cause it to blip or rev match but why doesn't it cut ignition to initiate a shift?
Why do you need ignition cut on downshift, your throttle is closed, if you think it through you'll see what I mean:)
How many wires on the F4's unit?
It's not hard these days for software developers to write program's that use downshift auto blipping via quichshifter, It's been used in racing for some time.
 

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Why do you need ignition cut on downshift, your throttle is closed, if you think it through you'll see what I mean:)
How many wires on the F4's unit?
It's not hard these days for software developers to write program's that use downshift auto blipping via quichshifter, It's been used in racing for some time.
I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious. If the strain gauge is programmed to do it, how does it know if you pushing up or down?

Like you say it's not hard for them to do. So why doesn't the auto blip work on MV's? I mean on the "first ride" report in the magazines, over a year ago, they said it worked flawlessly.
 

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I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious. If the strain gauge is programmed to do it, how does it know if you pushing up or down?

Like you say it's not hard for them to do. So why doesn't the auto blip work on MV's? I mean on the "first ride" report in the magazines, over a year ago, they said it worked flawlessly.
In it's own way it works like a double pole or two way switch, this I am assuming, the strain gauge I use have to be aught which way is upshifting, no swapping of wires.

I'll take a stab in the dark till somebody like Chris or Hans corrects me:
1. When the ECU see's a closed throttle position, then get's a pressure signal from the q/s, it can be programmed to do the right thing with the gas and your foot does the rest, using throttle position sensors etc.
When your hard on the gas and it pics up q/s pressure the ECU will do go the other way.
2. Or the way some other units do it (Honda I've worked on), will use a three wire switch (non strain gauge), push one way and pull the other way, send's a different signal (2-way switch).

I've heard of a few guys on the forum who's had the software updates and the downshift auto blip works just fine, another had to have the bolt replaced or re-torqued. I believe some don't care about using it. Best to hear from them, sorry mate, can't help any more than that.
 

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I don't think I NEED it, I'm just curious.
I didn't mean you NEED it, I meant it like this - When you're braking and about to downshift, your throttle is closed, ignition is already cut. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If it's really as simple as detecting strain. I don't know why it doesn't cut ignition on downshift.
I mean can it really tell if it's being pushed up or down?
Obviously that wouldn't cause it to blip or rev match but why doesn't it cut ignition to initiate a shift?
The strain gauge could be directional, working only on upshift.

The ECU could program the gauge off when throttle closed like on a downshift. All kinds of monkey business can be done with electronics these days.

It does appear that the problems reported by some with it`s use may just be from not being deliberate enough on the shift lever.
 

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Mv said that's coming in an update up and down quick shifting and it was one of the things I got the bike for
But none is working so far ,like other things on that bike .
 

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Mv said that's coming in an update up and down quick shifting and it was one of the things I got the bike for
But none is working so far ,like other things on that bike .
Have you activated the QS in the dashboard?
Or
You might need to do a ECU map update?
What model of bike do you have?
 

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I didn't mean you NEED it, I meant it like this - When you're braking and about to downshift, your throttle is closed, ignition is already cut. :)


This i don't follow. Think you can break it down further for the layman here?

When i hear the word "cut" regarding ignition i think of electronically interrupted. Be it by turning the key/kill switch off, or temp. through electronic means via a QS. What i don't follow is when breaking, and about to down shift, means the ignition is already cut???
 

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This i don't follow. Think you can break it down further for the layman here?

When i hear the word "cut" regarding ignition i think of electronically interrupted. Be it by turning the key/kill switch off, or temp. through electronic means via a QS. What i don't follow is when breaking, and about to down shift, means the ignition is already cut???
Thanks for bring this up! I was afraid to get in trouble.
Since I haven't see Noel around much lately Donsy's being the forum curmudgeon. :drummer:
 
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