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I have a B3 675 and had it for almost 2 years.

It has done 8500km. It is running out of warranty very soon. got maybe 1-2 weeks left.

I have had a few issues but all repaired / replaced via warranty.

Just want to get the opinion here. Do you service your MV once a year regardless of mileages? Obviously my bike is not due for the 12000km service but some items such as engine oil should be replaced once a year. I had my 6000km service in October last year. Should I do a minor service on my bike before the warranty runs out, then do my next 12000km service when it is due?

Or should I do my 12000 km now? the service manual states that some items should be replaced / checked once a year. some are strictly 12000km.
 

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I do very low mileage annually ( to date ) on my MV.

I change the oil and oil filter every year regardless..I change brake and clutch fluid every year. May be over kill but it is good to turn the bleed nipples too..I don't want them corroding in.

Chain I'm servicing non stop and wheel bearings I can check on the Bursig stand as both wheels are off the ground..

Common sense stuff really. If the bike is laid up for a while I like to spin the wheels, turn the steering left to right a few times to get the grease around,,move the controls and brake levers etc...That's probably ocd but I don't care !

Joe
 

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I do very low mileage annually ( to date ) on my MV.

I change the oil and oil filter every year regardless..I change brake and clutch fluid every year. May be over kill but it is good to turn the bleed nipples too..I don't want them corroding in.

Chain I'm servicing non stop and wheel bearings I can check on the Bursig stand as both wheels are off the ground..

Common sense stuff really. If the bike is laid up for a while I like to spin the wheels, turn the steering left to right a few times to get the grease around,,move the controls and brake levers etc...That's probably ocd but I don't care !

Joe

Not OCD at all - I do that and more on all my bikes.


My F4 is only just out of warranty but will have the same and will only go to a dealer for stuff I can't do myself.
 

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Change the oil before you park it over the off season. Corrosive by-products of combustion are mixed into it.
Change the brake and clutch fluids (if you have hydraulic clutch) at least every 2 years. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air.
Keep the battery on a smart charger.

Everything else is mileage related and can be ignored until the mileage comes up.
And on that note, MV recommends replacing stuff at intervals related to hard (race track type) use. They have to err on the side of caution. Many "replacement" items can go many more miles than the schedule. The key is routine inspection.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks.

Just thinking whether it's worthwhile to take a back for a minor service and potentially if faults are identified it can still be repaired under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Change the oil before you park it over the off season. Corrosive by-products of combustion are mixed into it.
Change the brake and clutch fluids (if you have hydraulic clutch) at least every 2 years. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air.
Keep the battery on a smart charger.

Everything else is mileage related and can be ignored until the mileage comes up.
And on that note, MV recommends replacing stuff at intervals related to hard (race track type) use. They have to err on the side of caution. Many "replacement" items can go many more miles than the schedule. The key is routine inspection.
Thanks for confirming it. As I read the owners manual I wasn't sure, but it is clear now.
 

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?

Ed;
The brake and clutch hydraulic systems are sealed from the atmosphere by the accordion gaskets on the M/Cs
In a winter layup the oil will be just fine......

Because most MV owners don't put any miles on their bikes

>:)>:)
 

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Ed;
The brake and clutch hydraulic systems are sealed from the atmosphere by the accordion gaskets on the M/Cs
In a winter layup the oil will be just fine......

Because most MV don't put any miles on their bikes

>:)>:)
Yes they are, and yet moisture gets in there. Change brake and clutch fluid every 2 years. Many don't, but you should. :grin2:
 

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Moisture is insidious!
 

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no rubber parts are completely impervious to moisture ingress. This includes the seals and reservoir gaskets, temperature extremes such as we have in parts of the world with seasons can expedite this.
 

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@flexi You didn't ask this but you could get an extended warranty. My warranty was almost up and I got a 5 year, fender to fender, $0 deductible warranty from my dealer for $1,000. Bargain as I have already had the warranty company spend more than that and I have 3 1/2 years left. My understanding is you have to get it before the factory warranty runs out. Just a suggestion.
 

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Don't forget about the coolant, also time dependent instead of milage. Depending on what you have in there now it be worth changing so that the radiator does not corrode. I usually change the stock coolant after one year. In my commuting bike I go with a long life 5 year coolant. In the Brutale that I take to the track I change the coolant each year.
 

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Yes they are, and yet moisture gets in there. Change brake and clutch fluid every 2 years. Many don't, but you should. :grin2:
no rubber parts are completely impervious to moisture ingress. This includes the seals and reservoir gaskets, temperature extremes such as we have in parts of the world with seasons can expedite this.
WTF?????
There is atmospheric pressure on both sides of the gasket, so what is the mechanism that pushes moisture past the gasket?

The hose bibs in my home run ~150psi and use rubber washers....and they don't leak

My '62 Abarth race car has had the same brake fluid in it since the late '60s and it's still clear, the last time it was driven was
between '69-'75 when my asshole brother drove it and blew it up

:wink2:
 

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WTF?????
There is atmospheric pressure on both sides of the gasket, so what is the mechanism that pushes moisture past the gasket?

The hose bibs in my home run ~150psi and use rubber washers....and they don't leak

My '62 Abarth race car has had the same brake fluid in it since the late '60s and it's still clear, the last time it was driven was
between '69-'75 when my asshole brother drove it and blew it up

:wink2:
Because brake fluid is typically hygroscopic it attracts water from the atmosphere through the pores in the rubber.
 

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Noel, don't ask me to explain it to you....it just happens. Believe me, I deal with it all the time. Maybe it has to do with the heat cycles that occur. Take a look on top of that rubber diaphragm next time you open the lid on a master cylinder...is there water there? And I'm pretty sure Al's statement about the rubber hoses is true, too.

Maybe your dry California desert air has something to do with your experience, but brake fluid in humid Florida is full of water in 2 years time.

Find me an owner's manual that doesn't recommend brake fluid replacement every 2 years. You can't. Well, maybe your old Abarth. There's a reason for that.

Suzuki's massive front brake master cylinder recall was all about lack of maintenance related problems. Water in the brake fluid causing corrosion on the piston. Every single bike that had the problem that resulted in the recall had old brake fluid. Every one. Typically 4 years or more since put in service when problems began.

You can say and do what you want Noel, but you are wrong about brake fluid.
 

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Ed;
I've been in this business a whole lot longer than you ....

Desert air?
According to Weather Bug the humidity today in;
Atlanta was between 100%-20% presently 44%
Redondo Beach was 96% -75% presently 78%

Water on top of the rubber diaphragm?
It comes in through the slits in the ends of the aluminum cover, when you wash the bike in the sun or you get rained on
as the M/C is cooled by the water

Water doesn't go through Buna N

Water doesn't go through brake lines......they're lined with Teflon

Abarths don't have owner's manuals......you get a service manual, 38 pages and a parts list, 79 pages......
If you don't know Italian race cars ......leave
1st picture the manuals
2nd the carbs and intake manifold with 40DCOE2 Webers....no air filters, nothing
sounds like a baby Top Fueler.....even detuned

>:)>:)>:)
 

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I change all my fluids (except those in the suspension) at least once a year. The cost isn't exactly high so no big deal really and it gives me some peace of mind. I do notice slight improvement in the clutch and brakes once the fluids have been changed.

I live in Singapore with constant 30C+ temps and often high humidity, whether this has anything to do with it i have no idea. Even then, i did the same when i lived in the UK, just seems good practice and often going through the process you can pick up other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@flexi You didn't ask this but you could get an extended warranty. My warranty was almost up and I got a 5 year, fender to fender, $0 deductible warranty from my dealer for $1,000. Bargain as I have already had the warranty company spend more than that and I have 3 1/2 years left. My understanding is you have to get it before the factory warranty runs out. Just a suggestion.
That's a great suggestion! My warranty runs out in few days!!!

Has everyone in Sydney extended their factory warranty? If so how much?? I LOVE my MV but reliability is my main concern. I have been lucky so far. I just had problem with my electrical harness, and radiator leak. both repaired/replaced recently under warranty.
 

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Nice find Al!
 
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