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Discussion Starter #1
In an attempt to increase the efficiency of the rad fans and hence airflow through the rad I've done some fiddling. I added "ducts" to both fans to close off the gaps between the fans and the rads (the top one was really huge and drawing alot of air through it instead of the rad), to reduce the distance from the blade tips to the duct surface and to cover the entire edge of the blade to reduce flow loss and keep more air moving aft. As an illustration I've included a picture of a trashed first stage compressor blade out of a CFM engine on an Airbus. Note the squared off and slightly radiused tip. The edge is just thousandths of an inch from the inside of the engine and completely covered by same. 99.9 percent of the air coming through the intake goes into the engine. Almost nil losses there. It is the most efficient example of a "fan" that I know of, and I was applying that techology to the rad fans as best I could. For sure they're going to pull more air through the rad but don't know how much.

That blade, by the way, is made of solid titanium alloy. It got trashed as a result of a baby carriage rolling across the ramp into the death zone and the engine gobbled it up right now. You can see the goober on the outer edge.

I'm going to add an additional fan from a Duc 1098 to the lower left corner in order to get better coverage. Alot of area there with no fan. Keep you posted.
 

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make sure the new shroud does not touch the radiator...vibration could cause a hole in the thin core passages.
 

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The Brutale has a rubber piece that seals the outer fan 'cage' to the rad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am toying with the idea of slitting some very small tubing and putting it around the edge to protect the rad.
 

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lee said:
C'mon Lewdog. Of course it doesn't touch. 040"-050" off it.


:laughing: somehow I knew you would have a response like that....but I have to be quite honest and say that I am a little disappointed..... a varience of .010".... what kind of crude measuring tools are you using.....let me guess....i bet its the ruler molded into the top of your fishing tackle box.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
lewdog baby,

Nothing quite so precise I'm afraid. I just slide a dime under it and if it goes then it's good enough. I use nickles for the really big stuff.
 

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lee said:
I am toying with the idea of slitting some very small tubing and putting it around the edge to protect the rad.
Good idea, one other area to look that I have noticed is becauase the air has a tortoreous path out of the fairing enclosure a lot of it simply comes out over the top of the rad by the lower triple clamp and straight back into the top fan, not a good idea.
On the later R/312 models there are also a lot of gaps around the lower V piece that causes the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mike,

Yes the outlet area for the fan airflow is lacking. However I believe that there are enough gaps, openings and spaces in and around the fairing to handle it. The question is moot however because I am NOT going to go hacking away at the fairings on my Tambo. It is what it is, and I'm going to have to live with it. But thanks for your input.
 

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Does it work??? Thats all i need to know
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes all three will be wired into the same circut. I checked the amperage draw of the three fans and it's less than 10 amps, including the initial surge. The stock circut is protected by a 15 amp fuse so I think it'll be alright. I have yet to check out the amp/hr rating of the fully charged batt so I can figure how long I can run them with the manual switch and still have enough to start the engine.

Will it work? How the hell do I know. I think it will. It better after all the time I'm putting into it. And if it doesn't then what the hey. I had some fun fooling around at least.
 

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frenaugo said:
Lee

I like your idea of adding another fan in the large area to the bottom left. Is there enough clearance?

Nice, well thought out work by the way.
While I was installing the Muzzy blades, I measured the clearances from every critical point on the left empty side. #3 down pipe (from right to left) is kinda on the way the most. The most slim fan I could locate had 1.5" thickness which didn't allow to squeeze in between. Only thing fits is a computer CPU fan but will melt away like a butter, I believe... I dropped it for later as a winter project. I am in the process of acquiring the CAT eliminator so the bike will be stripped down anyway.
Thanks for sharing the ideas.



On a second thought; what do you guys think of reversing the air pull to push? At first, considering there is not much space around to discard the hot air from pull fans, it sounds logical to do so. It will be most effective when statitionary but it will fight the forced air when moving. Any thoughts?

Happy holiday season (whatever yours may be) to all...
 

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Ruhi said:
On a second thought; what do you guys think of reversing the air pull to push? At first, considering there is not much space around to discard the hot air from pull fans, it sounds logical to do so. It will be most effective when statitionary but it will fight the forced air when moving. Any thoughts?

Happy holiday season (whatever yours may be) to all...
Blowing very hot air from the manifolds over the fans and through the radiator does'nt sound too good an idea?
 

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I know KTM make a fan kit for their enduro bikes that you can retro fit if you do a lot of slow work.Havent actually seen one so cant comment on the size.Mates at work tell me its a $250au accessory.
The same guys also use CPU fans with no issues on their KTMs as they are cheaper.
Ciao
phil
 

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Lee

With all that area in front and behind the fan blades, do you think bending the leading edge of the blades towards the airflow be advisable?

This of course would create more airflow, although the gaps between the fan and shroud would be increased, do you think that gap is critical?

I ask these questions as looking at the profile of the fans, you would have thought the angle would be greater to increase airflow.
 
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