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Discussion Starter #1
For the life of me, I cannot get my TVL to launch from a stop in a smooth manner. The ride-by-wire throttle response wants to either send me in to a wheelie or stall when pulling away from a stop, making every traffic light a source of anxiety. The slightest degree of throttle input creates total havoc with engine speed.

Has anyone else had a similar experience with their MV or any clues on how I might address this issue?
 

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Get into the dash menu and change the settings.
 

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Try the Rain mode as its a little softer. Not sure about the TV but the F4 can be very grabby, small engine speed differences result in very jerky launches. Change of the slipper clutch seems to be a fix.
 

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Mine sometimes does a very odd thing at launch. It's not consistent but quite disconcerting when it happens. I suspect the slipper clutch is the issue. Not sure if there's a fix for it though. Difficult to demonstrate to a dealer as it only happens every now and then.
 

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I have a similar problem, sometimes when I start uphill the engine stalls with a big jolt... Its freaks me out !! The technician said it is the clutch..
so he ordered one for me, but the clutch is no warranty...!!! 500€!! additional working hours!! In your case, it could be also the throttle potentiometer
Which is at least a warranty part ....
 

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What is your traction control setting? I had problems starting out uphill. I would use too much (the traction control thought) throttle and the traction control goes a little bonkers. On level ground, the automatic idle speed increase enables me to pull away without increasing the throttle until the clutch is fully engaged. The dealer had set traction control to 5, resetting to 3 fixed the problem. It didn't take much of a rise - maybe 2 inches, but it was enough to cause my over-reaction which then triggered the computer's over-reaction.
 

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Launching into an unintentional wheelie at a stop light is scary. Doing one purposely is super fun, but prefer a throttle only wheelie. Mine seems to feather well, but I would like to hear if rain mode, like Chas suggested, would curb the launches. Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Although I can't change the fuel map settings to rain mode (one of the many deficiencies on my particular model that I own), I can adjust the fuel map modes in the general settings menu and create a customized map. I've turned the engine speed setting to 'slow' but sadly, no difference yet.

Edit: Also tried changing traction control settings but no improvement either. I'm starting to lean towards it being a clutch issue but still looking for suggestions. I had clutch components replaced under a recall a few months ago and the problem is certainly more pronounced since that replacement.
 

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IMO the map settings can make it worse but not irradiate the issue, I still think there is an underlying problem in the clutch. I had something similar on a K2 GSXR 1000, the fix there was to kit a Kawasaki clutch plate that had a damping element in.
 

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My TVL was getting so bad it was like the clutch was an on off switch with no room between unengaged and fully engaged. It started out inconsistently, and got progressively worse.

There was a few things going on that I can tell.
1. The hydraulic clutch fluid was full of moisture, and on hot days in heavy traffic the clutch fluid would heat up like boiling of brake fluid. Suddenly there would be no way to get the bike rolling. It got so bad one day on my way home, that the clutch was fully engaged with the lever against the bar. Once the dealership flushed new fluid in, my bike stopped over heating the fluid in stop and go traffic making where the clutch engaged and how quickly it engaged to be consistent.

2. The second thing that happened is, as I got closer to my scheduled oil change at 9,000 miles, I was about a 1/4 of a quart low on oil. I'm not sure if it was the fresh oil that cured the issue, or if it was the rise in oil level that fixed the issue. All I know is I topped it off, and the clutch got a whole lot better/smoother to deal with. Like the original poster, I was getting stressed out about coming to a stop at intersections because it was super difficult to get the bike moving without stalling it. I have never done a power wheelie on accident, but I never increased my RPM enough to do that.
 

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Just a thought:
Did you check the silent block within the rear sprocket? It seems that this silent block life time is really short.

Further, I did have some difficulties myself with launch at the very beginning with the bike, and this for longer than any other bike I had in my life. The fact we use shifter may have an impact on our perception/feeling on the clutch, making a smooth launch more difficult. Further, when the engine is hot, as it is not a dry clutch, the cutch point is moving a bit, making it even more difficult... I do not experience this anymore (I stopped using the shifter fro some time to sense the clutch point).
 

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... and me, and since the clutch recall upgrade too! Only happened about three times, but a senior citizen pulling a wheelie in front of a queue of traffic certainly gave the onlookers some free entertainment. Another time the wheelie was followed by the most incredible kangarooing until I pulled over and killed the engine. Restarted and all was well. Another TV owner told me it was the quickshifter and he was on his third. A certain West Midlands MV dealer told me it was "rider error". Damn it being a rookie! Only been riding for nearly 50 years 'on and off' if you'll pardon the pun!
 

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I have occasionally very squirrelly launches (2 today actually) but only, to my recollection, in sport mode. I’ve been riding in touring mode while commuting lately (surface streets in LA), and haven’t ever gotten those issues in touring.

It’s a newish thing for me though. The first 2k miles I put on the bike never left sport mode and I never had those dodgy launches.
 

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I had exact same issue on my TVL. Replacing the faulty clutch switch took care of it (along with the gazillion of other clutch related problems).

My TVL was getting so bad it was like the clutch was an on off switch with no room between unengaged and fully engaged. It started out inconsistently, and got progressively worse.
 

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Clutch switch replacement

I had exact same issue on my TVL. Replacing the faulty clutch switch took care of it (along with the gazillion of other clutch related problems).
When you say the Clutch Switch, have you a picture of it along with its location please? I've been trawling through the workshop manual and I can find reference to it (Parts List No. 53), but nothing showing me what it is and where it is. I've found the EAS switch (long silver cylindrical item attached to the gear linkage) and the Clutch Sensor (no picture of this either, just a block connector).:crying:
 

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When you say the Clutch Switch, have you a picture of it along with its location please?
I don't have the picture of the actual switch. See the image below for its location on the bike.
 

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