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Discussion Starter #1
Problem starting when engine hot/warm on my Brutale 1078. Kinda stuttering. Battery only couple mths old, and it only happens when the engine is hot/warm.. cold starts in the morning is fine.. weird

i'll be bringing it to the shop soon.. any pointers would be good.. thx in advance

 

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Check the connections at the START SOLENOID for cleanliness and tightness. Located directly behind the battery.
 

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If you find that cleaning your connections solves your issue, you can disregard this. I had starting issues similar sounding to yours on hot starts and also very difficult starting when cold out, less than 50°F was a 50/50 chance, on my 910R. I made some uprated battery cables for the battery ground and from the battery to the starter and it was a night and day difference. Something to consider if the issue persists.
 

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I took all of the connectors out of the connector housings and soldered them to each wire,
then put back in the housing added some deoxit 100 to each connection works well .

Also added the thicker primary wire kit sold on this site cracks faster when warm
 

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The battery cables are the issue for hot/warm start problem. You should replace them with the upgraded ones or make them yourself/have a shop to make them. I've had the same problem with my 910R Brutale and after changing the cables the problem is gone.
You should find some threads abou it on here.
 

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The 1078 brutale is a bitch for this ,still haven't completely solved the problem after changing half the gear on the bike , number 1, the heavy battery leads is a must, no2 change to lithium battery with a big cranking capacity , i have cleaned all connections but still on occasions it happens , I have changed , ECU,CAM SENSOR ,AIRTEMP SENSOR , CRANK SENSOR , iF YOU EVER FIND THE PROBLEM PLEASE ADVISE ME . GOOD LUCK .
 

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ps:The battery and new leads made a huge difference but still has not solved it completely ,It was bloody dangerous if you stalled in traffic ,Yep your video is spot on .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ps:The battery and new leads made a huge difference but still has not solved it completely ,It was bloody dangerous if you stalled in traffic ,Yep your video is spot on .
I've actually stalled at the lights a few times already.. dats why going to the shop now.. the last incident a wk ago was right in the middle of an intersection while waiting to turn, it stalled and i was blocking traffic after the lights changed.. last straw
 
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Honestly ,if they fix it please post the fix,Mine is not to bad now but not perfect , This has bugged me for years . Keep us informed
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Honestly ,if they fix it please post the fix,Mine is not to bad now but not perfect , This has bugged me for years . Keep us informed
just wondering what the charge on your batteries are.. i went to the shop today.. when i arrived and showed them the problem, the battery was at 12.8v.. but after they charged it a little to 13.3v the problem immediate disappeared, instant crank

and not like my battery is not charging or alternator not working, just that at that lower charge and with warm engine, i get that stuttering

i've gotta install one of them voltmeters and monitor some more
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Check the connections at the START SOLENOID for cleanliness and tightness. Located directly behind the battery.
he did take a look at the thing, and the mech whatsapp it to the mech at the MV dealer, who said that is the old type.. the new ones comes with fuse or something.. not sure.. anyway i'll be making an appointment to see the MV mech soon.. let him take a look and i'll know more
 

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just wondering what the charge on your batteries are.. i went to the shop today.. when i arrived and showed them the problem, the battery was at 12.8v.. but after they charged it a little to 13.3v the problem immediate disappeared, instant crank

and not like my battery is not charging or alternator not working, just that at that lower charge and with warm engine, i get that stuttering

i've gotta install one of them voltmeters and monitor some more

This has been covered before, but I'll state it again: These bikes require batteries that are in tip-top shape. Quality batteries.

Your bike is controlled by voltage, literally. If your battery is compromised, i.e. cannot maintain voltage while cranking your engine, then voltage in the system will drop to a point where the ECU will cut out. This will stall your engine and prevent restart.

Multiple voltage cycles on a battery will deplete the electro-chemical reactions that produce electrons.

There is parasitic drain on your battery when the bike is off and parked.

Keep your battery on a tender when not is use if at all practical
and you will have a better battery experience.
 

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he did take a look at the thing, and the mech whatsapp it to the mech at the MV dealer, who said that is the old type.. the new ones comes with fuse or something.. not sure.. anyway i'll be making an appointment to see the MV mech soon.. let him take a look and i'll know more

I am not sure what you mean here. The only thing that is applicable is what is on YOUR bike....
 

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yep the problem is the battery leads have upgraded mine with lithium battery never have a problem
also make sure the bike is in tune and a tip if its hot and you go to start the bike turn ignition on
but don't let it do the sweep it should fire up on the button.
 

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yep the problem is the battery leads have upgraded mine with lithium battery never have a problem
also make sure the bike is in tune and a tip if its hot and you go to start the bike turn ignition on
but don't let it do the sweep it should fire up on the button.

That's a pretty bold statement as there are hundreds of these bikes worldwide without upgraded leads that work just fine.
 

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That's a pretty bold statement as there are hundreds of these bikes worldwide without upgraded leads that work just fine.
just saying what worked for me have done this to two mv, 2007 910r sadly smashed and now my 910s and
both did exact same thing as in vid dont have this problem now . i have also renewed battery leads on Ducati monster 1100 evo
its renowned for hot starting problems,:smile2: problem gone nothing ventured nothing gained if you don't try you will never know
just stating what worked for me.
 

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I agree that upgraded leads do improve starting performance. I also agree that upgraded batteries improve starting performance.

The most likely culprit, in this, and most cases, is poor electrical connection in the existing system.
 

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I agree that upgraded leads do improve starting performance. I also agree that upgraded batteries improve starting performance.

The most likely culprit, in this, and most cases, is poor electrical connection in the existing system.
yep spot on and i can also say i can leave bike for 6 months during the winter bike fired up
on the button .
 

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My 312R with upgraded cables works like that, as does my 1090RR without upgraded cables.
 

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yamaha v-max 1200 had starting issues when hot same as vid
pity there was not theses upgrade leads around , you had to let the bike cool down before starting.
 
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