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Discussion Starter #1
Holy crap!! I thought this was supposed to be a simple job! :wtf:

I went to change the oil and filter for the first time on my new to me MV (2003 F4 750S) and, based on comments on the forum and the pictures in the maintenance manual, thought this was going to be easy. Once I took the fairing pieces off I realized......something here doesn't look like the manual pictures! What the heck are these pipes coming off the engine that are holding the filter prisoner? :stickpoke They're not shown in the pictures where it looks like the filter is super easy to access and replace. Well, it's not easy..:thewife: at least not on my F4.

What am I missing here? Any tricks to removing the oil filter (HF-554)? I got it unscrewed, but I can't pull it out because the pipes are in the way and don't give enough room to wiggle the filter out. Do I have to remove the exhaust?! :wtf:
 

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filter?

Gitano;
there seems to be differences in MV pipes
Ed Eskew and i both have '08 910Rs
he can remove his filter with a 3/8" extension......i can't get a razor blade through there

i remove #3&4, you might need to remove #1&2 (Brutale filters are on the other side)

go to Pep Boys and buy a Purolator PL-14612
its the best filter made
http://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

scroll way down to #5:drummer:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Noel, thanks for the rapid reply. I just managed to wiggle the HF filter out. What a bitch! I did have the Purolator filter on hand, based your your and others suggestions here, but it is longer that the HF554. There's no way I can get get it on without removing the pipes. And, I don't even think the Purolator will fit as the clearance with the HF wasn't that great (the Purolator is a bit longer than the HF). Dammit! I guess I'll be forced to learn a bit more about this bike than I planned for! But, that's a good thing!
 

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filter?

Gitano;
if the Purolator PL14612 is too long, 75.5mm
get the Mobil M1-108 its 65mm long and the about the same quality (but smaller)

now here's where it gets stupid
the wrench that fit the factory filter Victor #17009 fits the Mobil but not the Purolator:wtf:

the Flotool 'Super Graphite# 5, fits the Purolator so does the Pep Boys made in Taiwan metal one marked on the inside 65/14 (its a tight fit)

hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I'm looking at the shop manual and to remove the exhaust tubes so I can change the oil filter I also have to remove the radiator assembly......:jsm:

Noel, you mentioned differences in pipes and maybe that's what is playing into this. I believe what's on the bike now is a Ferracci-installed system (titanium headers and mid-pipes with Ferracci/Silmoto CF mufflers). The bends in the pipes run the exhaust tubes rather close to the oil filter, hence this challenge. There's really not much wiggle room in there. But, I'll figure it out. Gotta figure it out so I can go :f4:

Thanks again for the input!
 

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?

So, I'm looking at the shop manual and to remove the exhaust tubes so I can change the oil filter I also have to remove the radiator assembly......:jsm:

Noel, you mentioned differences in pipes and maybe that's what is playing into this. I believe what's on the bike now is a Ferracci-installed system (titanium headers and mid-pipes with Ferracci/Silmoto CF mufflers). The bends in the pipes run the exhaust tubes rather close to the oil filter, hence this challenge. There's really not much wiggle room in there. But, I'll figure it out. Gotta figure it out so I can go :f4:

Thanks again for the input!
leave the radiator alone.....
pull the pipe springs and the right side mid pipe mount
do you have the later style X-clamps on the head pipes?
loosen the right side and remove the left
you "should" be able to remove 1&2 head pipes or at least make enough room to change the filter......IF the SLIP JOINTS have Never-Seize on them:naughty:

Harbor Freight has "headlight adjusting tools" AKA pipe spring tools for like $2.99
:naughty::naughty:

if you don't remove 1&2 wrap them in plastic or foil to keep the oil off

no point in ruining the color:jsm:
 

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filters?

I replaced my stock filter with the Mobil 1 M108 filter and it fit easily.
the reason i recommend the Purolator PL-14612 (if it fits) over the Mobil 1M-108 is that it has way more filtration area inside.....ie; its a better filter
:drummer:
 

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Hell I have just been putting on some tacky gloves (as in sticky surface, not lime green with sparkles) and twisting with both hands and its come off. Its the only way I have had success because I cant get a ratchet through and the pipes are in the way of a filter wrench. If its really, really on there you could leaver the tongue of the plastic strap that secures the filter from vibrating lose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I'm happy to say that I sorted this out without having to remove any pipes (or the radiator!). At Noel's suggestion, I went to a local Advance Auto Parts and purchased the Mobil M1-108 filter. It has the same dimensions as the HF554 and, since I managed to somehow wiggle that HF filter out, I figured I should be able to wiggle a new one back in. After fiddling around for about 15 minutes, I finally arrived at the trick to doing this. It was like figuring out a 3D puzzle, you know - like those classic horse shoe puzzle rings (OK, I'm exaggerating :jerkoff:).

The key to slipping it into the "cage" is to start with the leading threaded edge of the filter by placing it between the filter face plate and what I believe is the pressure regulator valve. Once the threaded edge of the filter is in that space, the filter can be angled downward, toward the pipes, and slipped in toward the bottom of the oil filter face plate. Once in that position, it can be rotated clockwise, onto the threaded spindle and tightened on.

The Purolator PL1612 may be a better filter, but there's no why to get it on there without removing some pipes because it is longer. And, like Ryan, there's no way I can get a filter wrench and ratchet onto the end of the filter, so it's going on with the help of a rubber glove and my finely calibrated torque hand (just following the old rule, about a full turn once the rubber gasket contacts the face plate). There really isn't a lot of room there. And, I'm listening to Noel's advice- no filter clamp...:smoking:

I contacted the previous owner and he confirmed that the titanium pipes are a larger diameter than the stock pipes. Mine are 40.5mm, so maybe someone can chime in with what their OD measurements are, just out of curiosity. That these pipes are larger diameter makes it a little harder to manipulate the oil filter and slip it out. Nonetheless, I managed to do it without removing anything. Seems simple, and a small victory. :drummer: Many thanks, particularly to Noel for helping to keep me focused on this little project, even when it seemed like it should have been super simple. Now I can go ridin' (once it stops raining!) :f4:
 

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Could you post some pics please.

Just so others can see Gitano, I mean the clearance to the pipes.

As an extra safety, when you hand tighten the filter and the OEM clamp does not go back on, put a hose clamp round the filter and safety wire it to the oil pressure switch. It works great, and good piece of mind too.
 

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K&N all the way for me, have always used them - the nut makes changes a breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Looking at Donsy's picture, it is clear there are big differences in pipe configurations. I certainly can't get a filter wrench in there, even a K&N with a nut because the wrench extension wouldn't have direct access to the nut. So, I have to do everything from the open side by using the appropriate tools.

Here are a couple of pics of my set up. The clearance from the end of the Mobil1-108 filter to the pipe is just under 8 mm. The Purolator filter is 10mm longer than this one, so it will not fit, even if I remove the pipes for the install. Donsy, do you remove your pipes for filter replacement? Looks like you also have spacing issues. Then again, you are probably dismantling your bikes often anyway because all the track work you do.

Thanks for the picture of the clamp and wire set-up. I'm just riding on the street so a clamp may not be necessary, but it certainly would be cheap insurance.
 

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