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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just a little suggestion based on member experience shared on the forum. F4 and Brutale.

If you buy a used bike.....

There are numerous tales of woe relating to difficulty removing the rear wheel nut.

This almost certainly is due to a lack of lubrication in the past leading to corrosion between the aluminium nut and the steel axle.

Have a torque wrench in the correct range... Refer to manual...

Have the correct wheel nut socket ( The oe nuts are tapered so you need a tapered socket ). There are some after market sellers supplying straight cut wheel nuts.( check yours ).

Have some anti sieze grease ( I use copperease ).

If you don't have a compressor and a "rattle gun", pop the socket in your pocket and take a trip down to your local tyre bay when they are quiet. They'll be glad to have your company :)

Ask them to undo the wheel nut using your socket .Remove the safety clip securing the nut to the spindle . Remember it is a left hand thread so righty loosey. As Noel pointed out recently, nuts which have little grooves around the circumference indicate that this is a left hand thread ( International convention ).

Then tighten it up to a sensible torque and ride home.

When you get home...remove the nut yourself. It will be easy now as the Tyre bay guys have taken all the angst out of it for you.

Now clean the threads of the nut and the spindle up. They are very fine threads and it doesn't take much to block them and cause resistance when undoing.

When the spindle/ nut threads are clean, lubricate the first few threads of the axle ( refer to manual ) with the anti-sieze grease.

Make sure that the parts are dry. ie not wet with water ..

Don't put grease on the conical mating surfaces of the nut and spindle. These are gripping surfaces and the manual instructs you not to do this...

Now torque her up using an extension bar through the axle so that you can use the torque wrench in the correct sense from the left side of the bike ie turning it clockwise to tighten with the socket reversed on the extension.( which turns the nut ant-clockwise when viewed from the right side of the bike. ( refer to the manual for torque setting ).

If you do this you will reduce signifcantly the chances of having to get a nine foot breaker bar out on your bike next time you wish to remove the wheel simply because the thing is stuck fast through lack of this simple bit of preventative maintenance.

and if you buy a new bike..I'd ask them to do this on the first service....

joe
 

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i just want to add to joes (i no you have covered this but i feel this the major problem with this issue)
remember its a reversed thread which means it tightens in a normal untightening direction .. i have sean lots of numbies doing this inc 1 guy with a 6ft scafold pole over his wrench (was not an MV)
 

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Good post Joe and very thorough and informative.

Interesting to read that some aftermarket sellers produce 'straight' cut nut replacements as opposed to the OEM 'taper' cut ones.
If I was ever to replace mine it would be with a straight cut as I find the 'taper cut socket wants to 'twist out' of it's location on the OEM nuts when., Doing up/undoing., them using a breaker bar & torque wrench.
Brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks fellas.

Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe
 

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Thanks fellas.

Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe
I'll check them out Joe....,thanks.

It's just something I found ....wouldn't happen with a 'rattle gun' when taking them off but definitely with a breaker bar/torque wrench (I found) and you have to hold the socket tool tight against the nut to prevent it.

And I'm kinda lost being born without that 3rd hand:laughing:

Brian.
 

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Joe, I had a search and spotted those 'straight cut nuts you mentioned.....very reasonable!.
Think I'm gonna get me a set!......well it's Christmas......... ''Humbug'!!!!
Brian.
 

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Hi Joe! and all!
Removed my wheel nut during lunch today.
'07 F100R w/3850 miles (tires are shot!)
Held rear brake w/one hand and turned nut off with breaker!
Was not too tight, threads perfect and no anti-seize from factory.
Pulling hub later to inspect and pack bearings.

Ed :)
 

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Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe
I heard only good on German forums about this guy. I myself do not have anything from him. I just grinded a nut with an air tool to fit. No scratches ;) .
 

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I heard only good on German forums about this guy. I myself do not have anything from him. I just grinded a nut with an air tool to fit. No scratches ;) .
That's good to know Jochen...,I'll probably order a set from him this coming week (I'm Paid!!:highclap:)
Brian:)
 

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I think the major problem with too tight rear axle nuts on mv is that all the other single sided swingers have conventional threads. And with the B3 800 at least no label on the wheel explaining this as being reversed thread as the earlier mvs had.
 

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Advice please

Great write up gotojoe really helpful. My F4 is only a few months yet so I could easily get the 'first loosen' done as you suggest by my dealer. I kind of like to be self sufficient where I can and had been thinking of getting a workshop compressor for years - this could be just the excuse I need :naughty: think you've suggested on other threads a rattle gun is least resistance way to get the nut off generally anyway (apologies if I've picked this up wrong :lightning) What HP and SCFM compressor would you suggest? was thinking 2-2.5HP 7-9.5SCFM Clarke, don't want to end up buying one without enough grunt in it to do the job

I've bought an ergal nut socket off ebay as per attachments below
Realised after purchasing it doesn't have sq drive hole thru so will have to torque up from wheel side but do have reversible Teng torque wrench. Anybody any had any experience using this particular socket and how did you get on with it? Can't tell if it is tapered or parallel sided but looking at my hub nuts it looks to me that wheel side nut is parallel sided ( hub side tapered)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well done for reading up. It's only the result of my own experience : )

I use an Al socket with the compressor to undo. This reduces chewing up the wheel nut which is also Al.

I use a steel socket to torque up and yes mine does have the square hole all the way through.

The compressor I use is a baby...and more than ample clout to remove the nut. I use a Snap on rattle gun . I bought it used off eBay in the States for low bucks.

Here is the approx specn of the compressor I use..Very useful for tyre inflation. I wouldnt be without one.

6.3cfm air displacement
24 litre air receiver (CE certified)
1.5hp, 230V motor with thermal overload protection
8 Bar (115psi) maximum working pressure controlled by fully automatic pressure switch
Use for paint spraying, tyre inflating, blow jet cleaning etc
Ideal for serious DIY & hobby use
Dimensions (LWH) 585x285x595mm
 

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Are you guys talking about CARBONTRADEUG, he is on eBay and that is his trade name, he sell both nuts and the socket for aound $122.00 US plus shipping, around $10.00.
 

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Hi flyboyaviator,
Don't recognize your ebay vendors name myself but did buy this socket off ebay from mvs-performance and they do offer nut sets too.
The socket has now arrived, well made, but parallel sides, and on trying it my wheel side nut proves to be tapered....Now have to decide whether to see whether it damages the nut when used with a rattle gun, or whether to just use it on the front and try the rattle gun with the tapered stst TPO socket on its way to me....advice anyone please!
 

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I would wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's kind of surprising that MV don't supply the correct sockets in the tool kit...

but, as Chuck says..I'd wait for the correct tool too as you'll make a mess of the aluminium nut and that would be an eyesore..

joe
 

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Hi gotojoe,

Thanks, despite the good and detailed advice on here I'm still finding this simple job a real learning curve...rather 'park' some money spent than make a mess of the nut....can't stand a bodge. Appreciate the advice.
 
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