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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My F4 1078 MY09 got a poor idle for few weeks.
It has been decat for 1 year and has very few km (less than 2000km).

I have reset TPS (from 2,6 to 2,3) and tried to balance body throttle.
But problem is still there.

I checked with JPDiag and have 2 fault codes:
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit

I'm thinking about air temp sensor inside left air funnel????
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, I took an air sensor on my Ducati (they are the same).
Fault code disappeared but not the idle problem.
Engine is still stalling and idling bad once warm.

I don't think about fuel filter or sparks : they are less 1500km and engine is running very very well above 400revs.
 

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This is the first thing to check! Bad fuel has caused others a lot of grief before they figured it out and the simplest thing to do. GL
 

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Last year a new member chased a problem for months! Literally pulled everything apart, wiring, coils, ECU, the time invested was intense. Checked timing,TPS , wiring continuity you name it. Problem was low octane fuel!!

I myself a few years back was helping a friend with rough idling on a Chevy van. Not MV related but read on. the van had been neglected to say the least. Checked everything, full tune up etc. What was the last thing done before the issues started! He filled up at a convenience store while a tanker dumped fresh fuel @ 6AM.

What was the last thing I checked? The fuel filter. Yep filled with water. Think the tanker stirred the pot? It sure did. Wasted a weekend for water filled filter.

It happened to me again with my own truck later that year. This time I was a little better prepared and only took 2 hrs to figure it out. Fuel filter was filled with water. Never happens right. Today's fuel is crap.
 

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Fuel & Battery are two things that will go bad over time unused. Batt even on tender, corrosion grows on untreated connections & rubber deteriorates. Did I miss anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thx a lot.
Battery is always connected to Optimate Charger.
My fuel is 6 monthes old (Octan 98 - 5% ethanol included for Europe). And because of winter, water may have polluted fuel filter so... I know what I'll do this week-end.

Then, I'll check a vacuum leak. Where could it be lecated?
 

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Thx a lot.
Battery is always connected to Optimate Charger.
My fuel is 6 monthes old (Octan 98 - 5% ethanol included for Europe). And because of winter, water may have polluted fuel filter so... I know what I'll do this week-end.

Then, I'll check a vacuum leak. Where could it be lecated?

Check all vacuum hoses and the rubber blanking plugs.
 

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If you didn't stabilize the fuel start there. You might want to think about cleaning and adding protection to the batt connections and other electrical connections if you never had. In another post a member fried his started relay from dirty corroded connections a week ago , not uncommon on older bikes. Easy to fix ahead of time. When I first got my bike I researched lots of problems. Plenty started from bad electrical connections. Proactive maintenance will pay dividends. Rubber gets dry and cracks too, causing vacuum leaks. GL
 

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wtf???

Frank;
READ the OP's original post.....

he has 98 octane WITH stabilizer
it runs fine from 400rpm up ( a typo, 1400 or 4000)
so it is NOT WATER in the fuel
because it would run like shit everywhere if there was water in the fuel

Mitch has the best suggestion..... vacuum leak

:wink2:
 

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Frank;
READ the OP's original post.....

he has 98 octane WITH stabilizer
it runs fine from 400rpm up ( a typo, 1400 or 4000)
so it is NOT WATER in the fuel
because it would run like shit everywhere if there was water in the fuel

Mitch has the best suggestion..... vacuum leak

:wink2:
Noddles ,

I said I ran into water in fuel on 2 separate occasions!! Both in cars not bikes.
Mr. Gimme ran into low octane issues after spending the better part of a month or two troubleshooting everything possible only to come full circle to bad fuel. His problem poor idling & acceleration.
Post #3 doesn't state fuel was stabilized!!! 6 month old before winter 98 octane.
Agreed with Mitchy and liked his comment!!
Assuming the bike ran fine before storing what is the most likely thing that would go bad in 6 months??? Engine oil? Coolant? Low air psi in tires?
Fuel can't go bad in 6 months can it?
Whats the simplest this to change? Your right air in the tires.

Frank
 

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Just for Frank.....

Well, I took an air sensor on my Ducati (they are the same).
Fault code disappeared but not the idle problem.
Engine is still stalling and idling bad once warm.

I don't think about fuel filter or sparks : they are less 1500km and engine is running very very well above 400revs.
Missed that didn't you Frank?

It's not water!!!!! or it would run shitty everywhere

just out of curiosity what lowered the octane Frank???

I'll ask a Cheveron chemist tomorrow
:wink2:
 

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Wtf???

Noel,

Read this!!

https://generalaviationnews.com/2011/05/15/how-long-can-fuel-be-safely-stored-2/

98 octane with 5% ethanol was filled before winter 6 months ago. No indication stabile was added. Ethanol is the killer here.

If the bike was stored with no issues before what is most likely problem?

Frank
Frank:
Did you READ the link you posted?????

The Shell Engineer stated that "you only lose a point or so of octane with time" missed that didn't you Frank?
so far you've missed everything.....
the 2 dead sensors
that he reset TPS which changes fuel and ignition maps
and that it ONLY affected idle

So I talked to the Chevron Chemist Rob Hodges, Sunday.....
Gasoline with Ethanol lasts ~ 2 years in a sealed container
then the carbon/hydrogen rings start sticking together.....
add a detergent problem solved
Ethanol is a stable organic compound.....ever drink 20 year old Scotch?

So how does water get into the tank while the bike is stored?????
Well obviously it goes up the tank drain vent, through the charcoal canister and through the ~1mm hole in the
fuel cap......by what mechanism Frank???????

So yesterday I talked to the driver delivering gas to the Chevron station at 1820 S. PCH
every pump has a major water filter
before he can dump fuel he gets a computer readout of the condition of the tank...
temp, humidity.....and lastly inches of water in the sump measured in 0.01"
if there is 1" they have to get a permit to suck the tank out

Frank do you realize the consequences of pumping water contaminated fuel into customer's vehicles????

It's called a class action lawsuit......and that's big bucks

Think a bit before typing or calling me names.....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wow,wow,wow!!

Well, I got the old fuel out of the tank and filled new fuel. I ran around 20 km to let new fuel go to injectors.
But, no chance, the idle problem is still there.

So, this is my plan:
- get the tank and the airbox out,
- check vacuum hoses and the rubber blanking plugs,
- maybe change spark plugs and fuel filter (they are only 1500km but...)
 

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I had a bike which a mouse made a nest in the air box. he filled the air filter with what looked like carpet insulation. caused 70% blockade. doubt it's your problem but while you're in there take a look.

BTW was the old fuel stabilized? I was trying to load a picture of bad fuel that separated and it's night & day where you can see the water from ethanol. If it wasn't can you add an injector cleaner? GM uses Chevron Techron GL
 

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My 2010 F4 recently ran like crap but was ok (not great but better) above 4K. Traced to a broken coil. Ran beautifully once all replaced.
 
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