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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a weird issue with the bike and the current heatwave - the temperatures are all over the place. Was out this morning riding around the city and the displayed temp seems to by flying from around 205 to 240F+ and back down randomly. When I got back I let it just idle and temp would be stable at 215 sitting there for about 5 mins. Then I rolled up maybe 50 meters up an incline ramp into the parking garage and the temp shot up to 245 if not more and i could feel the heat from the radiators coming up around the airbox.

So... I'm at a bit of a loss here. Couple of theories:
a) The temp sensor is busted; I'll grab a new one just out of precaution
b) There's a bunch of air in the system, which makes for inaccurate reading on the dash
c) The thermostat is sticking or something and not letting the coolant circulate
d) Water pump issues??

Any ideas would be welcome :)

Also and extra random, I had the entire dash flash (all the warning lights etc) when the temp was really getting up there (250?) and it seemed like it reset itself and the next reading was 212F (?????)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Found the coolant temp sender, parts numbers exchange, so far nothing that can be sourced easily in the us.
Manufacturer Part number
ALFA ROMEO 46449499
ANGLI 1840
CSV electronic parts CST9569
DELPHI TS10229
DELPHI TS10229-12B1
ELTA AUTOMOTIVE EV0186
ELTA AUTOMOTIVE XTS8115
EPS 1.830.157
FACET 7.3157
FIAT 46449499
FISPA 82.569
HELLA 6PT 009 309-951
 

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Air in the system !!!
 
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I'd drain it and start over. This tool is invaluable when your refilling the system. I don't know why anyone does it the old fashion way anymore after I used this.


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That looks like a fun tool to have!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well tried burping it a couple times, still hitting 240F on the dash even in idle. Keeps going up and down though, so it also could be the sensor (got a new one on the way).

Any thoughts on the bigger water pump? I've got the F&F eeprom that should've fixed whatever ignition timing issues, yet this thing is still baking.
 

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That looks like a fun tool to have!
It is actually I really enjoy using it! It takes about 2-5 min to totally fill your entire system. It just sucks all the air out then sucks the coolant all the way through (even past the thermostat) no waiting for warm up and refilling.

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Nice.
 

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Head gasket, builds pressure with heat and prevents the thermostat from working.
 

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@pmalik: It is unlikely that your head gasket spontaneously started to interfere with your T-stat.

Have you had any recent maintenance or mods done prior to the coolant issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I bought the bike around April, been doing all the maintenance stuff last couple months. Nothing related to the cooling so far, other than checking the level etc.
 

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The erratic reading indicates either air in the system, or a failing sensor. The indicator for the dash does not input into ECU function, there is a separate isensor for that.

Filling an MV with coolant is a bit of a tempermental exercise. Air pockets are common on initial fill and those pockets can cause further coolant to burp out at temp. My first action would be a drain and fill of coolant...or at least a top up by running the bike with the rad cap off up to temp and then adding coolant. Let cool. Repeat. Do this until you can;t add any more coolant. Rock the bike back and forth to as steep an angle as you can handle without dropping the bike. Then run the bike through several temp cycles...hot enough to open the T-stat...and add coolant to the overflow bottle each time, but only to the min mark. Let the bike cool and add to the overflow bottle min mark only. That should ensure the system is full.

What coolant is in the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's actually what I was doing yesterday, including leaning it back and forth to try to get the air out. Not sure what's there at the moment, I topped it off a with a bit of distilled water. Draining it and replacing thermostat/waterpump/whatever is next on the agenda.
 

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One other thing to check is the condition of the pressure cap. If that cap and its seat is corroded or damaged, then it cannot maintain the pressure needed to prevent boiling. there have been many instances where a simple clean and inspect of the pressure cap has resolved a boiling issue.
 

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It is actually I really enjoy using it! It takes about 2-5 min to totally fill your entire system. It just sucks all the air out then sucks the coolant all the way through (even past the thermostat) no waiting for warm up and refilling.
That is actually how the manufacturers of cars and motorcycles fill cooling systems on the assembly line. Great tool to have for sure.
 
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That is actually how the manufacturers of cars and motorcycles fill cooling systems on the assembly line. Great tool to have for sure.
That's cool I didn't know that. It makes sense though. It's the best way ive seen to refill coolant. Works the best when its completely empty though.

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I would definately start with a new thermostat.
Check your cooling fans are coming on.
I would also replace the cap as well.
 

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Recently I had a pressure cap failure that sounds exactly what you described.

Moreover, the cap appeared to be fine on initial inspection; however, the seal appeared to be loose to the canter of the cap. What I hypothesized was that the seal seal bunched up went off center when the cap was tightened.

The temporary fix was to RTV the seal to the cap. Once cured I installed it with a little dielectric grease so that the seal would not grab and once again go off center. This temporarily fixed the cap / issue while I ordered a new cap.
 
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