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Discussion Starter #1
Well - this was bound to happen. Regularly running 105 degrees celsius in slow traffic (or stopped at a light) was bound to put a lot of pressure - literally - on the cooling system and a couple of days ago a hairline crack in a tube nicely dowsed the bike in coolant.

Yes, I tried most known remedies to get the temperature down:

1. Using water wetter
2. Replaced the cat mid-pipe with a open one
3. Replaced the stock fans with Muzzy blades
4. Added a separate fan controller to activate one of the fans at 88 degrees celsius

None of them make a real difference at higher ambient temps (>85 degrees fahrenheit) and slower speeds (<45mph)

Anyway, unless the radiator can be fixed, I'm in the market for a replacement. I sure don't want to go and buy a stock one.

Would anybody know of a source for aftermarket (racing) radiators for and '07 F4?
 

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Search for "cracked radiator"--It's more likely due to a mounting issue than heat, and it may be covered under warranty, even if yours is expired.
 

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yeah, cracked radiator may not be from high temp. I hit 136C with the old cdi and no fan and she spilled most of her coolant through the overflow pipe, but didn't crack. the weather here is 34C and humid so it doesn't help cool anything. With the new cdi the stock fan kicks in at 95C so things reach a max of about 105C and all is well. Good luck things.
 

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Interesting idea, but pretty unlikely, I think. The upper radiator is flexibly mounted in rubber grommets - there simply isn't any stress on it as it moves freely when I push it around.

On the other hand, the thin tubes are susceptible to high pressure and the bike has more than once run up into >225.

By the way, does anyone know where to get one of those tools for the crimp style hose clamps used on the MV? It's that or cutting them off :)
 

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I use a small plain screwdriver to undo the clamps and a set of needle nose pliers to put them back on.
 

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Interesting idea, but pretty unlikely, I think. The upper radiator is flexibly mounted in rubber grommets - there simply isn't any stress on it as it moves freely when I push it around.

On the other hand, the thin tubes are susceptible to high pressure and the bike has more than once run up into >225.

By the way, does anyone know where to get one of those tools for the crimp style hose clamps used on the MV? It's that or cutting them off :)
You would be surprised.

There have been a couple of threads about cracked radiators and MV have determined it is a design flaw and replaced them.

You missed two of the best modifications that are guaranteed to help your overheating problem.

The fan switch was a good idea, but you need for the switch to control a third fan. (See the fanzilla thread)

Buy the new improved water impeller from Vesvio or from an MV Dealer, or maybe some of our other sponsors have it and install that.
 

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You would be surprised.

There have been a couple of threads about cracked radiators and MV have determined it is a design flaw and replaced them.

You missed two of the best modifications that are guaranteed to help your overheating problem.

The fan switch was a good idea, but you need for the switch to control a third fan. (See the fanzilla thread)

Buy the new improved water impeller from Vesvio or from an MV Dealer, or maybe some of our other sponsors have it and install that.
Thanks Cag... Yes i can vouch for the third fan.
See Fanzilla and Fanzilla (son of).

MV have upgraded their radiators. Pity it's evident even on the new models that they are not up to scratch.

You can see the increased strength in these welds on the new improved version.
 

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Yes, I had two cracked radiator in the upper left section. There was an updated radiator release around August 2008.

I doubt it's do to running hot. I think hitting a speed bumb/dip, potholes, or maybe very hard braking may be the cause. Add hard landing from wheelies if you're into that too. In my case, I remember scratching my belly pan on a speed dip about a week before I started noticing the telltale signs of coolant splattering on the windscreen.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I love the F4 - it's a great handling bike, but to add a radiator design issue to the already dismal cooling system implementation is not what I was looking for. I'll take the radiator to a shop tomorrow to see what can be done.

I did follow the 3rd fan discussion and decided not to do it because another fan, unless it's basically running all the time, will actually limit airflow through the radiator even more. And the idea of three fans spinning at a stop light - it'll sound like a hovercraft taking off :)

I hope that upgrading the pump will actually do the job.
 

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if you want a tool to remove the clamp do a search on this forum for clic-r. I ordered one and it cost about $45. definitely worth it. Don't order the impeller from Vesuvio. Get your dealer to order the new water pump upgrade from MV. it cost half as much and is a better design.
 

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[/FONT][/SIZE]Just bought a 312, rode it once and the rad started pissing water out on the left hand side.









Mine did the same. Took it to the dealer and when I got it back it worked fine. He thought there was too much cooland in it to start with.





PS: he also told me that engine ice will not make your engine run cooler, neither will an impellor or different blades. I don't know what to think anymore. all I know is that there is definately people on this site trying to flog their stuff and make a quick buck.
 

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I am in the process of having my radiator replaced under warranty, it is a design flaw and they do replace them with the updated unit but it is dissapointing new bikes are still sold with the inferior radiator. My guess is they are hoping the majority will last till after the warranty has expired? I have found our aussie distributors are quick to respond when these problems arise, so as long as they keep fixing the gremlins I will be happy enough. Frustrated but happy......
 

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Is it true that fancy coolants have no cooling benefit over plain water?
I know that the Evo3 constantly boiled up in traffic with water in, hasn't done so since with E/Ice.
 

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clic R pliers

MV part numbers, page J01

800095850 pliers assembly/disassembly
800098321 clamp fitting pliers
or,www.chain-auto-tools.com/general_auto_tools/AMM391L.htm

pressure in the radiator is controlled by the pressure cap on the header tank

the previous owner had the bottom seam of the tank welded, a QC problem
mounts breaking/pulling loose.... QC or gravity effects because of rough roads/wheelies

Noel-theknurl
 

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Interesting idea, but pretty unlikely, I think. The upper radiator is flexibly mounted in rubber grommets - there simply isn't any stress on it as it moves freely when I push it around.
QUOTE]

Yes flexible mounts, but also supporting the whole weight of the top and bottom radiators (the lower bracket only holds the rads in the correct vertical arrangement)

On pre 312, ie 1000S the lower rad frame was quite a tight fit in the fairing, on later bikes this was not the case and the fairing offered none of the little support provided by the early V piece/fairing, this may have something to do with the higher failure numbers on post 1000s models
 

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Q=M(T1-T2) Q= Heat transfer rate, M= Mass flow rate of the system (Air over the radiator or fluid flow rate in the coolant system), and T1-T2 equals the temperature difference between the cooling medium and the cooled medium in absulute value).

So, in practice, assuming a constant cooled fluid(read that as no change in specific heat capacity), if you raise the volume of air going past the radiatorper unit time, then temperature of the cooled fluid will go down. If you raise the flow rate of the cooled fluid by increasing the capability of the pump to move more coolant, then the cooled fluid temperature will go down. If you increase the abiltiy of the cooled fluid to carry and transfer more heat, say by additives that are surficants and additivels that raise boilng temperature for a given pressure, then temperature for a given air flow rate and a give coolant mass flow rate, will go down. Most coolants improve the heat transfer rate of plain water.

Another formula relates surface area to heat transfer capability, Q=UA (T1-T2), which shows that by adding more surface area, a bigger radiator, you will increase the abilty to remove heat and therby reduce coolant temperature.

You should probably find a deaer or mechanic that understands BASIC engine theory before his advice gets your bike into trouble.
 
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