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Discussion Starter #1
'06 F4

bike runs hot, I have seen 217F at a stop. It also loses collant after it is turned off.

the dealer answer

"As to your coolant leak, it is (strangely enough) quite common, and usually
goes away as the seal around the water pump housing expands. Obviously letus know if it becomes more of a concern and someone will be happy to take care of it."

I would hope they would take care of it. Not expecting this response regarding seal around water pump.

I have dealt with this dealer for years and I am starting to wonder.

Anybody with comments on GP MC in San Diego?

The bike also seems to have quite a lag when opening the throttle at ~4k RPM. Is this common? If so, what is the fix?

thanks
 

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Greetings charliep...No, your dealer is not blowing smoke up your ass. My 05 F4 did and still does the same. Seeing as how my dealer told me the same thing about the water pump leak issue, either we have the truth, or a VAST ITALIAN CONSPERACY.

Seriously, the seal will improve to no leakage as the mileage increases. Mine is at 4k and the drip finally stopped. Be sure that the leak is actually coming from the pump seal, and not the coolant pressure bottle drip line which runs close by.

As to your other concerns, I discovered that I have been riding the bike completely wrong. I seemed to forget I was riding a race bike and was instead riding it like a kymco. When obeying the speed limits, 4th 5th and 6th gears are all but useless. The bike wants to be revved. Try keeping the tach at 5k at least. You and your F4 will like it better. If you find it difficult to keep the bikes at those RPMS, try some different sprocket sizes. Several other members have done so to good affect.

Another plus to keeping the revs up is to increase coolant circulation which should help some in keeping temps down. Here in Dallas, last summer and fall, the outside temps stayed in the 90's to low 100's. I understand how frightening it is to be sitting on your expensive pride and joy in stop and go traffic just watching the coolant temp rise and rise. This year I am trying some Engine Ice and a Scotts finned aluminum oil filter to see if I can get the boiling back under control. :blah: :blah: :blah:

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah, keeping the rev's down a bit as I break it in, so doing roll on's at lower RPM then I would normally for I4.it sounds like I am holding an angry cat by the tail when it get's spun up a bit.
 

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I am having the same problems right now. I put Engine Ice in my bike this week, but it hasn't helped at all. I will try your suggestion and keep the revs up and hopefully that will help. Regardless, there's got to be something else that we can do to keep the temp lower.
 

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I believe your dealer might be blowing smoke up your ass...coolant loss is only a common problem on the MV if the level is filled above the min mark..check your level and drain it neccessary.
 

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A friend had the same problem AND the dealer said the same thing to him. Then, through not giving up (as it was frustrating as hell) it turned out to be a faulty radiator cap (which said dealer went on to find solved a similar problem with three other customer bike)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks, I have asked my dealer to check the cap and system pressurization.

the way the temp goes from 180 to 220 when stopped back to 180 in a few moments once moving leads me to think something is not right (along with the purging of coolant and gurgling noise of coolant bubbling into the overflow tank when parked.
 

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GP Motorcycles is a great place.

As been said. check coolent level. if its too high its going to vent to the ground next to the water pump. Also the water pumps have a poor design. The spring that preloads the seal fails from the get go 90% of the time. I update the spring with a stronger one and fixes the problem. The spring heas up gets weak to fails to hold pressure. Wheich in return is why they have a weep hole that they leak from. Takes about an hour to swap it out. But you must refill the system.
I bet you have a air bubble trapped at the temp sensor, air bubble caused by water pump seal failure. As steam moves across the temp sensor it send the readings up. As you get moving water then runs across the sensor causing it to lower.

Also you might like to check the c0 level on the bike. It might be running lean. check it from the header plugs and not from the tail pipes. Tail pipes give you a + or - 3% reading from what the engine is really doing.

Weep hole in water pump is a common problem. I am sure GP will take care of you no problems. I also understand the "Italian shock" you get when you spend that kinda coin and get some unknown italian flavor added to your coffie. Its not you or the bike. Its the breed, Its what adds flavor to the blend.

Enjoy the bike. Your in a group now that most people will never know of. The level of riding you will have. This flavor is one that japenese bikes can not obtain.

MV is also one of the better companies out there as far as taking care of their customers. So have no worries. Enjoy the bike. No one is blowing smoke.

If you have any questions let me know I'll see how I can help.
 

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From what I can tell, all or most MVs need a remap of the lower RPM ranges to work correctly. This is something that a whole lot of other bikes need as well. They are trying to meet emissions standards.

I put a different chip in mine that is mapped to generally be better under most conditions, and it is. It's the old WCT chip, not sure if it's available for the 1000cc bikes.

Your water pump cover really shouldn't leak, they should have fixed that problem long ago as Mr. Tech has done above.

But they've been known for many years to boil off coolant if you have the tank filled above about halfway between high and low. Leave it at low, and you shouldn't have a boiling over problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the bike is a new '06 F4 1000. I was going to get a black 1098S, but decided to try the MV as I just sold my '04 Mille and still have my '00 996 that I have quite personalized. The 996 runs great and is a keeper.

The MV is my 5th Italian bike, so I my expectations are previously calibrated. I got rid of the Mille as it was not that inspiring (to me) - great bike, good finish, ran well.

I am sure that GP will stand behind MV. German has it now.
 

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You'd be damned unlucky to find an MV that is less reliable than a 996. Seriously. My opinion is slightly colored because I have one that was screwed up before I got it, but I've had the damned engine open a bunch of times and it's way hokey in there compared to what I've seen on the MV.

So the MV has a slight cooling issue, and a fueling issue that everybody has these days. My opinion is that it's acceptable.

Still, on a bike that cost so much $$, water leaks should be at a minimum...
 

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Scotts Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter

This year I am trying some Engine Ice and a Scotts finned aluminum oil filter to see if I can get the boiling back under control. :blah: :blah: :blah:

Hope this helps.

Please tell me more about the Scotts finned aluminum oil filter. I am interested in their Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter. MVs are not listed on their site. I contacted Scotts to put in my request. They will keep me posted if they make one available. --I wonder if MVs specs match with another bike brand filter.

http://www.scottsperformance.com/products.php?PartType=3
 

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Please tell me more about the Scotts finned aluminum oil filter. I am interested in their Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter. MVs are not listed on their site. I contacted Scotts to put in my request. They will keep me posted if they make one available. --I wonder if MVs specs match with another bike brand filter.

http://www.scottsperformance.com/products.php?PartType=3
The MV's take the exact same filter from Honda CBR600RR, I guess you can order the same SS filter from scotts designed for the 600RR.
 

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'06 F4

bike runs hot, I have seen 217F at a stop. It also loses collant after it is turned off.

the dealer answer

"As to your coolant leak, it is (strangely enough) quite common, and usually
goes away as the seal around the water pump housing expands. Obviously letus know if it becomes more of a concern and someone will be happy to take care of it."

I would hope they would take care of it. Not expecting this response regarding seal around water pump.

I have dealt with this dealer for years and I am starting to wonder.

Anybody with comments on GP MC in San Diego?

The bike also seems to have quite a lag when opening the throttle at ~4k RPM. Is this common? If so, what is the fix?

thanks
The waterpump on my Brutale always weeped and it got progressively worse as it hit 2700 miles.

I replaced the seals and updated the design to the new format.
Do a Search on the forum, there's been a few discussion on this already.

A wealth of information here:
http://mvfaq.blogspot.com/

This one is about the water pump:
http://mvfaq.blogspot.com/2005/08/water-pump-leaking.html
 

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Putting fins on an oil filter whether it be the filter itself or a slip on finned sleeve will have very little appreciable effect on the oil temp. That's a very small filter and there's next to no room between the headers as it is. Furthermore the filter sits right between headers 1&2 and is subjected to huge radiant heat from them which will negate cooling or even add to the temp. I've tried slip on finned cooler thingies on HD"s and they did absolutely nothing. Save your money.
 

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Spring to preload water pump seal????

Hello MV/Duc Tech,
I don't have the manual for the F4's. I have an 07 Senna and am having the same running hot problems but have not hade any weeping from the pump. However I am having a hard time visualizing what you are talking about, I thought the seal to the water pump was an o-ring on the outer case.

Can you provide some pics or drawings of what you are talking about and a source where one would purchase this new higher rate spring?
THX
RFE
 

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I had a coolant leak that turned out to be where the #1 exhaust had rubbed a hole in the lower radiator. How bad does that suck?
 
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