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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where I can get this? My local MV dealer doesn't have it in stock and has orders sitting since June.

If anyone knows a dealer that I can call to get this part from right away it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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silicone

screw the stupid gasket, go to the auto parts store and get some high temp silicone form-a-gasket

drain the oil into a CLEAN pan
remove the pan, clean the gasket surface with acetone or lacquer thinner
put a light coat of silicone on the pan
NOW wipe the bottom of the crankcase, wipe up inside aways too
now remount the pan and torque the bolts, as it says generic M6 to 8-10Nm
put the oil back in......

:f4::brutale:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
screw the stupid gasket, go to the auto parts store and get some high temp silicone form-a-gasket

drain the oil into a CLEAN pan
remove the pan, clean the gasket surface with acetone or lacquer thinner
put a light coat of silicone on the pan
NOW wipe the bottom of the crankcase, wipe up inside aways too
now remount the pan and torque the bolts, as it says generic M6 to 8-10Nm
put the oil back in......

:f4::brutale:
Thanks for the tip. I was hoping you would chime in. I actually have some high temp form-a-gasket but I wasn't sure if it was better to use the oem gasket instead.

How long will the form-a-gasket last?
 

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leakers?

the silicone will stay leak free longer than the gasket......

until the side stand (if you sit on the bike, on the stand) stretches the bolts on the pan.....
if you notice, the 2 bolts should have been on the bottom, where the tension is, not the top, where the compression is:wtf:

:f4::brutale:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the silicone will stay leak free longer than the gasket......

until the side stand (if you sit on the bike, on the stand) stretches the bolts on the pan.....
if you notice, the 2 bolts should have been on the bottom, where the tension is, not the top, where the compression is:wtf:

:f4::brutale:
Thanks again! Gonna get crackin on this soon so I can stop leakin' all over my driveway.
 

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gasket paper

you can try some gasket paper from the local auto parts store also. It comes in varying thickness so match it up with what is currently there.

Easy to use some bearing blue on the pan face , press it onto the paper ,remove it and theres your gasket line to cut.

Use a hole punch to cut any bolt holes. Punch these first before you cut the gasket away from the paper.

If you go with Noels idea of using silicone be careful not to over do it. Any silicone that squeezes into the crank case MAY eventually break away. It only takes a little dot sized piece of shit to clog a minor oil gallery.

Fairly safe bet if done correctly.

I have only seen 1 instance in 30 years of over zealous application of silicone and the resultant engine rebuild as a direct result.
 

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After reading these posts, yesterday finally decided to take action because the original seal waiting for more than 3 weeks and I do not know when it will arrive.
I took off my oil pan, clean everything with nitro thinner, and used this http://www.wurth.co.uk/catalogue/pdfs/UK-CD_05_0295.pdf (black)

Today made ​​a test run, several times heated and cooled engine and has no leaks, in fact it seems to me that this could be a better solution than the original seals. The original seal is in place above the side arm looked as if someone is hit with a hammer a few times - I was stunned.
 

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gaskets?

too bad MV didn't do the pan gasket like the transmission cover with a formed O-ring :stickpoke

i eliminate as many gaskets as possible, some you can't like head gaskets and the valve cover gasket (and I silicone it on both sides all the way around, so i'm not going to have to fix a leak):naughty:

:f4::brutale:
 

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Silicone based gasket compound is good stuff, I use it quite a bit. BUT....As triple said, be very careful not to use too much and make sure you dont get excess oozing into your sump. Bits of cured silicone floating around in your motor is not a good thing.

My Old Man had a Chev Diesel V8 rebuilt a little while back, it ran for a bit over a week before it overheated and cracked one of the heads. When it was pulled down again for inspection, it was found to have silicone stuck in the thermostat and wouldn't allow it to open. Someone had gone crazy with silicone on the thermostat cover. Expensive lesson.

Use it by all means, it really is good stuff. But go easy on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does anyone know if I can get the headers off without removing the radiator assembly? I'm going to try and tackle this tomorrow.
 

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thanks Noel! now i know the reason for my oil leak, siting on the bike og the side stand, better get some silicone ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After a long day I finally got everything off. It turns out that I had to take off the radiator assembly in order to get those rusted nuts off. Grrrrrr.

In any event there is a wire going into the oil sump and I'm not sure how to disconnect it. Can anyone help?
 

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After a long day I finally got everything off. It turns out that I had to take off the radiator assembly in order to get those rusted nuts off. Grrrrrr.

In any event there is a wire going into the oil sump and I'm not sure how to disconnect it. Can anyone help?
Hi mate, don't try and remove the wire from the sump, just follow it round to the side near the waterpump and unplug it there. Sorry to hear about the struggle with those nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi mate, don't try and remove the wire from the sump, just follow it round to the side near the waterpump and unplug it there. Sorry to hear about the struggle with those nuts.

Thanks again. So now I guess I have to pull off the gas tank. This bike is not easy to work on.

Well since I have the bike in pieces I guess I'll use the time to do an extensive clean up.

Donsy (or anyone), do you have suggestions on what I can use to clean the grime off of the engine cases and the radiator? Also, I would like to clean the exhaust since it's in my attic now.
 

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The plug for that cable should be near the gear lever shaft. If you have a lot of build-up of grime, I use Kerosene to get the worst off and then a softer de-greaser to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The plug for that cable should be near the gear lever shaft. If you have a lot of build-up of grime, I use Kerosene to get the worst off and then a softer de-greaser to finish the job.
Thanks.

Can you tell me what that wire/cable does? I hope I didn't screw it up I was yanking on it a little bit. :jsm:
 
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