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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I picked up my brand new 05 F41000S yesterday and am going to start running it in today, at the moment my bike has 8 mmiles on the clock!!

This is a question for the technical guys on here.

I'm planning on running it in fairly hard as I have all my bikes to get max power, I will do my first oil change at around 30 or 40 miles. Now here's the problem it's sunday here and most of the bike shops are closed and I need some oil to do an oil change later today. I only want mineral oil and the bike shops that I tried had just semi or full synthetic which I know is no good for running in an engine.

So here's my question could I use just plain simple mineral motor oil bought from a car dealership? The specs for the oil are API - SL
ACE - A2, ACE - B2

If I'm only going to have the oil in the engine for about 50 miles will this be OK?
 

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I would advise strongly against this, read all you can about the behaviours and specifications of the stock synthetic that is in the MV at delivery.
The MV dose not use a 'run in ' oil and comes from factory with full synthetic.
My question is why (even if you run it in hard) would you need to change the oil anyway? The motor is designed to run hard from the start...ever seen the photo of the motors on the MV production line running at max rpm for 20 mins and the headers glowing bright red?
Every MV motor is tested prior to assembly like this, then the oil is ditched for the final fill of synthetic. You will just be repeating what has already been done.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So are you saying that the engine has already been run in and that is why I should just use fully synthetic?

I've always thought that bikes came from the factory with a break in oil???
 

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More and more bikes (and cars) are coming from the factory with synthetics. Design tolerances are far better than they use to be. The piston rings, if run in properly, will be seated very fast. (some say as little as 20 miles)

The reason for an early oil change is to flush out metal filings, assembly lube and general dirt that can be in the engine. Does not harm it in any way and can only help as far as I'm concerned.

I changed my oil at 45 miles (after a proper dyno break in) then a quick change at 400 miles (no oil filter change) I will do one more oil change at 1000 miles. (always synthetic)

Don't mind me, I am severely anal about oil in engines! :nerd:
 

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reptile said:
So are you saying that the engine has already been run in and that is why I should just use fully synthetic?

I've always thought that bikes came from the factory with a break in oil???
The MV comes with full synthetic oil direct from factory, but no the engine has not been fully run in, as airfuel has said, there is still some bedding in to do, but the term 'running in' is not just about the motor, its about all the bikes components, all mechanical parts need bedding in to bring up to optimal performance.
Hope this helps :)
 

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agusta01 said:
The MV comes with full synthetic oil direct from factory, but no the engine has not been fully run in, as airfuel has said, there is still some bedding in to do, but the term 'running in' is not just about the motor, its about all the bikes components, all mechanical parts need bedding in to bring up to optimal performance.
Hope this helps :)
+1 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
agusta01 said:
I would advise strongly against this, read all you can about the behaviours and specifications of the stock synthetic that is in the MV at delivery.
The MV dose not use a 'run in ' oil and comes from factory with full synthetic.
My question is why (even if you run it in hard) would you need to change the oil anyway? The motor is designed to run hard from the start...ever seen the photo of the motors on the MV production line running at max rpm for 20 mins and the headers glowing bright red?
Every MV motor is tested prior to assembly like this, then the oil is ditched for the final fill of synthetic. You will just be repeating what has already been done.... :)
Well, I changed the oil today after 98 miles and it was pretty sludgey with loads of metal fillings in it. There's no way I would have wanted that oil in my engine for another 500 miles and to be honest I wish that I had changed it 50 miles earlier!!

I've now replaced the oil with mineral oil and will change the oil again at about 300 miles. :conveyer:
 

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reptile said:
I've now replaced the oil with mineral oil and will change the oil again at about 300 miles. :conveyer:
reptile, I dont really know anything about the subject but had always been led to believe that it was potentially dangerous to go back to mineral once you have been running a synthetic but this was about older engines. Heres an extract from something I looked up.

If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

I be inclined to hold off using the bike until someone gives it the okay...though as I said I dont really know anything about it.
 

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reptile said:
Well, I changed the oil today after 98 miles and it was pretty sludgey with loads of metal fillings in it. There's no way I would have wanted that oil in my engine for another 500 miles and to be honest I wish that I had changed it 50 miles earlier!!

I've now replaced the oil with mineral oil and will change the oil again at about 300 miles. :conveyer:
Why go against what the manufacturer says? its not uncommon these days for car engines to see 200,000+ miles when running synthetics against 60/70,000 miles in the "good old mineral oil days"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I spoke to an MV mechanic and he assured me that running mineral oil for 100 odd miles would do no harm and that most of the significant engine break in happens within the first 50 or so miles. The bike now has semi synthetic and 400 miles on the clock. What an awesome bike I'm really suprised at how fast it turns in. I had an 03 R1 with BST carbon fibre wheels before this and the MV turns in just as quick but is far more planted and stable in the turns!!
My bike came with dunlop 208rr tyres and a 190 / 55 rear tyre and they're pretty good and I don't intend to change them. So all in all I'm really really pleased with the bike and it's all that I hoped it would be.
 

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Curious as to what brand and weight oil folks have been using? I would also like to know if you have to remove the #3 & #4 manifolds as well as the oil cooler to be able to replace/remove the oil filter on the 910?

I've only used Mobil 1 MX4T 10w-40 in all my motorcycles as this is a true Class IV/V full synthetic. One of the forum members on the Multistrada website is a lubrication engineer and has posted tons & tons of test results showing the superiority of this lubricant. I for one am a believer and have had great results with the oil.

Also on his recommendation, I have attached special Neo Magnets to the outer casing of the oil filter itself to help in the removal of metal particles from the flow. Though I haven't done this personally, many have actually sliced opened the used filter and were amazed how much of the metal shavings actually stayed trapped within the filter. For $20, you can't go wrong.

Stuart
 

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So do the MV have synthetic Oil in as new

Can anyone confirm this ??

If so , i would question using the "Running in HARD" method, as i thought synthetics could cause barrell glazing ... if run to hard ..

And if they are run at full revs at the factory.. why ask the punters to run them in..??
 

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Spud said:
Can anyone confirm this ??

If so , i would question using the "Running in HARD" method, as i thought synthetics could cause barrell glazing ... if run to hard ..

And if they are run at full revs at the factory.. why ask the punters to run them in..??
The simple reason that owners are advised to run in their bikes is an issue of liabillity. The motors are stressed to the extreem at the factory, but not all components and of course these all need time and miles to bed in.

Simply put, if there were no advise from the manufacturer regarding staying within certain rev limits for a 'run in' period and say you took delivery of your new bike and limited the motor from km #1 and sustained major motor damage, then guess who would be liable?
All oil synthetic and mineral will cause glazing if the motor is held at a constant rpm whilst components are 'new', however this is also true for a motor with hundreds of Kms in service, the difference being the older the motor, the larger the tolerances and therefore this lessens the chance of glazing
 

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agusta01 said:
The simple reason that owners are advised to run in their bikes is an issue of liabillity. The motors are stressed to the extreem at the factory, but not all components and of course these all need time and miles to bed in.

Simply put, if there were no advise from the manufacturer regarding staying within certain rev limits for a 'run in' period and say you took delivery of your new bike and limited the motor from km #1 and sustained major motor damage, then guess who would be liable?
All oil synthetic and mineral will cause glazing if the motor is held at a constant rpm whilst components are 'new', however this is also true for a motor with hundreds of Kms in service, the difference being the older the motor, the larger the tolerances and therefore this lessens the chance of glazing
So would u run the whole bike in as in the manual, or run it in a bit harder ?

Especially the engine.. things like wheel bearings, clutch plates, pads etc wouldn't need 1000 miles to bed in, even the gearbox would be nicley bedded in after say 250 miles (up and down the box etc)..

I agree that constant throttle, ie Motorway/Freeway running would cause glazing, as in the manual, its states not to make the engine labour or constant revs for long periods..
but should you have to be so gentle over such a long period..
 

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Dude, don't put that crap(mineral oil) in your bike ever!

Synthetic oil comes with the MV because they probably run the engine a certain # of hours(like Ducati - 6 hours I think) before they even put in the frame! Engine has already been started on the break-in process.

So what your trying to accomplish has already been done. The first 2 oil changes will always be dirty regardless of when!

Break-in period is for the bike in general(wheels, bearings, chassis, clutch, suspension, brakes, engine, etc...). It's also more of a liability issue. If engine takes a shit during break-in, MV is more confident of a repair if the revs have been kept below 6k rpm as opposed to 12k rpm.... damaged would be considerably less obviously!

This what my mechanic and good friend told me!

JamesC might know a little about this too.....maybe, maybe not!
 

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Vlad Drac said:
Dude, don't put that crap(mineral oil) in your bike ever!

Synthetic oil comes with the MV because they probably run the engine a certain # of hours(like Ducati - 6 hours I think) before they even put in the frame! Engine has already been started on the break-in process.

So what your trying to accomplish has already been done. The first 2 oil changes will always be dirty regardless of when!

Break-in period is for the bike in general(wheels, bearings, chassis, clutch, suspension, brakes, engine, etc...). It's also more of a liability issue. If engine takes a shit during break-in, MV is more confident of a repair if the revs have been kept below 6k rpm as opposed to 12k rpm.... damaged would be considerably less obviously!

This what my mechanic and good friend told me!

JamesC might know a little about this too.....maybe, maybe not!

Cheers m8.. ;-)
 

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airfuel said:
More and more bikes (and cars) are coming from the factory with synthetics. Design tolerances are far better than they use to be. The piston rings, if run in properly, will be seated very fast. (some say as little as 20 miles)

The reason for an early oil change is to flush out metal filings, assembly lube and general dirt that can be in the engine. Does not harm it in any way and can only help as far as I'm concerned.

I changed my oil at 45 miles (after a proper dyno break in) then a quick change at 400 miles (no oil filter change) I will do one more oil change at 1000 miles. (always synthetic)

Don't mind me, I am severely anal about oil in engines! :nerd:
I don't know about the MV, but many cars are also coming with break-in oils nowadays. They specifically tell you NOT to drop it early. Our Honda S2000 was like this. They were insistent to run it the full oil change period. Though it drove me absolutely insane (being the kind of person that has always run non-detergent 30 wt dino for the first 600 miles, changing it twice, to break things in) but I figured their engineers know best. Some cars will not honor the warranty if you don't follow this guideline.

Munroe Motors, who are big MV fans and even race them, told me to make sure to ride it pretty hard early in the life of the engine. (they told me this while I was at the track with a bike that had about 650 miles :guitarist ) Apparently the only trouble they've seen with MV's are rings that never fully seal, seemingly from riders who baby the bike too much early. They said MV was very responsive and worked with them even sending "special" rings to try and get the engine to seal up.

I have to wonder, if this problem could have been avoided by running dino oil for the first 600 miles...and of course, riding the bike a bit harder too.
 
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