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The chain has to be slack enough that it isn't under tension when the rear axle center, swing arm pivot and transmission drive shaft axis are in alignment (tightest point in the rear wheel arc of movement). The factory specifies adjustment slack to achieve that. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN YOUR CHAIN.

Yes, you can remove the oil filter without removing the headers....but it is very tight. Some exhaust will not permit it, some will. Give it a try. I can on my 910R.

Coolant is coolant. Unless you want something extraordinary like Evans Coolant, or you are going to the track and coolant is not allowed (water only). Go to your local auto supply and buy a quality brand name "Long Life" coolant. Save your pennies.

They are all a formulation of Ethylene Glycol, even the over priced Motul or Eni and other motorcycle branded stuff.
 

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Propylene Glycol is more kind than ethylene glycol for animals, domestic and wild. It is classified as low toxicity and environmentally friendly antifreeze.
 

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Propylene Glycol is more kind than ethylene glycol for animals, domestic and wild. It is classified as low toxicity and environmentally friendly antifreeze.
But it does have some deficiencies when compared to the modern "long life" ethylene glycol coolants. Tried it in my bikes for a while, Deteriorated and I went back to good old "Prestone" :later:
 

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Thanks.
I use Honda long life coolant in other engines so I'll just use that. Just that I've seen alot of chat in the bike press and online about using motorcycle specific coolant due to the variety of alloys used in bike engines, radiators etc.
Automobile engines and cooling systems use all the same materials as motorcycles. Your Honda brand long life coolant is the same thing as cars use, just has a nice label.

The chat you hear is mis-informed or ill-informed..... or selling advertising.
 

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Don’t forget that if you are running a different size rear sprocket to the original your tension will differ in the measurement from the swing arm point to the chain centre line. Same goes for front sprocket.
 

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Thanks.
I know that chain tension is critical on MV's because of the rear hub, looks like someone over tightened it:surprise......
Chain tension is equally important on ALL bikes

Pinch bolt torque is critical on MVs.......
The Factory recommended torque is wrong use ONLY 15lbft/20Nm
 

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Pinch bolt torque is critical on MVs.......
The Factory recommended torque is wrong use ONLY 15lbft/20Nm
You've been saying that for a long while. I'm checking mine this week. Maybe this is a good moment to remind everyone why that is... as a PSA. :nerd2:
 

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You've been saying that for a long while. I'm checking mine this week. Maybe this is a good moment to remind everyone why that is... as a PSA. :nerd2:
Hub disasters.....
It's not chain tension or pressure washing......
Moisture gets in because the hub over heats and as it cools pulls damp air in, rusting the inside of the inner race
My Mitch Hubs both have small holes drilled through from the bottom......they are at atmospheric all the time
Horror pictures :wink2:
 

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The chain has to be slack enough that it isn't under tension when the rear axle center, swing arm pivot and transmission drive shaft axis are in alignment (tightest point in the rear wheel arc of movement). The factory specifies adjustment slack to achieve that. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN YOUR CHAIN.

Yes, you can remove the oil filter without removing the headers....but it is very tight. Some exhaust will not permit it, some will. Give it a try. I can on my 910R.

Coolant is coolant. Unless you want something extraordinary like Evans Coolant, or you are going to the track and coolant is not allowed (water only). Go to your local auto supply and buy a quality brand name "Long Life" coolant. Save your pennies.

They are all a formulation of Ethylene Glycol, even the over priced Motul or Eni and other motorcycle branded stuff.
Is it just my experience or is it more of a problem on the early bikes? You can not get an oil filter cup on my oil filter at all with the headers still on (2000 750). I'm going to cut a section out to look like the factory tool. Whilst I think this is the most beautiful bike ever designed some of its mechanical deficiencies leave a bit to be desired. I don't have to remove my headers but I do have to unbolt them and wiggle them alittle to get access to the oil filter and then it leaks the remaining oil on to the header :laugh:. I haven't learnt my lesson with italians because my next road bike purchase will be a 916 after I pay off the house :)

My track R6 is SO much easier to work on.

But it does have some deficiencies when compared to the modern "long life" ethylene glycol coolants. Tried it in my bikes for a while, Deteriorated and I went back to good old "Prestone" :later:
I'm just trying out Engine Ice for the first time. What are the deficiencies you refer to?

Thanks, Glenno
 

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Is it just my experience or is it more of a problem on the early bikes? You can not get an oil filter cup on my oil filter at all with the headers still on (2000 750).
I'm just trying out Engine Ice for the first time. What are the deficiencies you refer to?

I can get a wrench on the filter on my 910R with my headers.....Noel can't. Different headers, so you are right. Some you can, some you can't.

Oil spill is easily cleaned up with a bit of brake cleaner.

As for propylene glycol, It breaks down quickly. Really better for winterizing water systems in motor homes or boats. Used in track bikes because some organizations allow it (not as slippery and easier to clean up when spilled), but straight water with additives would be better, except it freezes during the winter.
 
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I always remove pipes 3&4 when doing a filter change......
That said I have an Arrow Thunder system, so removal means removing 1 pipe spring and the X clamp nut then 3&4
Lots of Nevr Seez on the pipe joints

Plenty of room to work and no oil on the pipes either:wink2:
Slide a piece of cardboard between the radiator and the pipes to avoid bending fins and cutting your knuckles
The filter wrench pictured is available on Amazon ~$6 with free shipping:grin2:
 

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Thanks. The cut off cup works great.

The oil was a problem when I had wrapped the headers as well as the ceramic coating. Not so much of a problem now I have removed the wrap.
 

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Why I remove pipes 3&4......just 1 pipe spring and the exhaust clamp nut.....I use a cup wrench less hassle
Mitch I wouldn't ever use one of those

this is a straight end view
My pair of Lisle filter wrenches fit all car and bike filters and the warning "wear gloves"
 

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Did the oil and filter change, eventually! Officially the nastiest oil filter access I've ever encountered! I didn't want to touch the exhaust so I removed the oil cooler guard, slackened off the lower oil cooler mount so the cooler could be pulled forward, slackened off the filter safety retainer, put a worm drive hose clamp on the filter, then a socket to to fit the hex on the hose clamp and with the help of a 1/4 drive shaft driver the filter was loosened off in about 2 or 3 part turns. Very fiddly job cionthough! Especially working at floor level! Must get my bike lift over here!
I used Penrite MC 4ST 10W60 oil, and it has really improved the feel of the gearbox, finding neutral is now first time every time and it shifts much smoother under power.
brutant;
I'm surprised with all your tools and expertise.....
That you didn't take your bike to your lift and just use a filter wrench on it
I see you're using the stupid plastic clamp........
As of 2010 there were 1,015,000,000 vehicles in the world .......and only MV uses the stupid clamp
So after you nigerianed the filter off how did you torque it to MV's specification???
Asking for a friend >:)
 
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