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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning,

I want to do an oil change on my F3 800 but I just want to clear some stuff up that the maintenance manuals have got me confused with.

Quantity of oil to be replaced?
Oil filter.

The manual is recommending about 3-3.5 litres of oil will be necessary to refill, can anyone confirm?

What kind of filter is it, as I want to replace that too/what generic brands do you use?

Thanks for your time on such a simple query.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks mate, appreciate it
 

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don't forget you have to remove the oil cooler to drain all the oil , failure to do this will scupper your add oil quantity !
 

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I can garranty that taking off the oil cooler is a waste of time and effort plus adding unneeded complexity, dump your oil and filter when warm and let drain ,it will get rid of the majority of oil. Like Donsy said follow the manual.
 

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I can garranty that taking off the oil cooler is a waste of time and effort plus adding unneeded complexity, dump your oil and filter when warm and let drain ,it will get rid of the majority of oil. Like Donsy said follow the manual.
Well, if you followed the workshop manual instructions, you would have emptied the oil cooler too, do you know how much oil is left in there mate :jsm:
I'd be carefull on what I guarentee if I where you. :naughty:
 

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For the 675 (didn't read the 800 manual, just double check)
Sump and filter = 2.5 Litres,
Oil Cooler & Hoses = 0.5 L
Residual = 0.2L

With that said, it takes me about 2.8L to fill between the marks while on the paddock stands. Im sure some of the oil must be draining from the cooler. Remember to drain from an engine at temperature.
 

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Donsy I wouldn't doubt that there is a small amount left in there but the effort and quite frankly the risk of damaging a o ring or developing oil leaks for 250 ml or less of oil is not worth the effort if you are that worried run the thing and dump the oil again because the amount of oil stuck in galleries and other places that don't drain is most likely going to be similar, but of course you know MV better than me I only worked on Jap bikes for ten years as a mechanic.
 

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Hahaha

Okay, got the sarcasm.:smoking:
No worries, it's your bike.
As a side note, you might think I know only MV, and you might be right, but I've worked in heavy industry, mechanical and electrical, for most of my adult life, I know what contaminated oil does, and if the F3/B3 oil cooler holds 250ml for example, that's a big ratio if the bike only takes 3-4L all up.
Maybe I'm just anal, as you where.:)
Have you looked at the F3 manuals ?
 

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Donsy I wouldn't doubt that there is a small amount left in there but the effort and quite frankly the risk of damaging a o ring or developing oil leaks for 250 ml or less of oil is not worth the effort if you are that worried run the thing and dump the oil again because the amount of oil stuck in galleries and other places that don't drain is most likely going to be similar, but of course you know MV better than me I only worked on Jap bikes for ten years as a mechanic.
So you're saying you worked on the bikes of paying customers for ten years without following the workshop manual recommendations?:jsm:
 

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Donsy I wouldn't doubt that there is a small amount left in there but the effort and quite frankly the risk of damaging a o ring or developing oil leaks for 250 ml or less of oil is not worth the effort if you are that worried run the thing and dump the oil again because the amount of oil stuck in galleries and other places that don't drain is most likely going to be similar, but of course you know MV better than me I only worked on Jap bikes for ten years as a mechanic.
What shops did you work in?
 

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None of the dealers here disconnect the oil cooler to drain. I agree that the risk of a hose disconnecting and spraying oil on the exhaust is simply not worth it. I'm sure most dealers wont even check the valves at 12000km unless the owner specifically tells them.

GREGOSTINI, Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and recommended that the pistons and rings be changed on their dirtbikes every 15 hours which was also the oil change interval. Most people changed the oil every 5 hours and the pistons between 30 and 40 depending on the capacity of the motor. Also the oil fill level checkbolt was about 15mm too low, so using it to check the oil as you fill could result in a stuffed bearing in the cases. This was the case for YEARS on these dirtbikes and the manual hadn't changed. Are those mechanics and owners guilty of not following the workshop manual recommendations, or is it that whoever wrote the workshop manual is twat?
 

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Also bear in mind that most of us change the oil ALOT more frequently than the manual so its not like the oil is contaminated and degraded to sht. I change mine every 2000km along with the filter.
 

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I drain the oil cooler on mine, takes an extra ten minutes.:)
If I paid for a scheduled service I would expect ALL the items in the schedule to be done, this is why I do all my own servicing beyond the warranty period.
 

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I actually did my apprenticeship with Kiwis for Kawasaki and Honda then switched over to Yamaha for a while but Like you Donsy am now a trade qualified industrial sparky got sick of working on bikes for other people. Look I agree with you guys my bike gets oil and filter every 3000 K and I suppose am relatively anal about that but the reality is unless a shop sends it mechanics to a new model release school sometimes it takes awhile to catch up with new models did several schools late eighties early nineties on new model Hondas, wow
 

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No worries Mike, I understand, some of the shit they want you to replace in the manual are just a joke, or a money making exercise.
Oil change etc..... I'd stick to a nice clean oil, but not every 3K for road use, that's just too often and 2K is just a waste of money, so I suppose it all evens out a bit.
 

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Donsy, agreed that oil changes after 2000k is a waste after the bike is run in some,

In my case; I had the oil changed the second time at 3000K (Leaky oil pump seal) and again at 5500K for its annual service. After every oil change I would find aluminium glitter in the oil so I cant see changing it a few times more often in the beginning being a waste. Also mix in a track day or two between the oil changes and its a little more worthwhile.

With that said, Motul 300V goes black quick, Wouldn't want to run it for 6000K in any case.
 
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