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Just changed my oil today and had a few questions.

Who out there really empties the oil cooler? I didn't have replacement seals so I didn't do it. It just seems like a pain in the arse for an extra .5 liter. Plus another potential leak.

Do you all replace the drain plug washer? I have a feeling I should have replaced mine.

Do you replace the rubber O-ring for the oil filter cover?

I noticed my drain plug must have been put on by a 500 pound gorilla. It took so much force to loosen that it slightly boogerd the head. I tried being careful when I tightened it. Does anyone know the correct torque the drain plug should be?
 

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1. The oil in the oil cooler, I would do it, you don't need new seals.

2. Replace the oil drain washer if it's buggered, if not sure, put some thread sealer on the plug. The torque settings are in the workshop manual for the F3, same deal mate, you just have to look a bit further.

3. If you have the o-ring, it should have come with the filter, change it.

This is why we encourage guys to put topics related to maintenance in that section, just add the model of your bike in the topic. There a lot of common things these bikes share, and until I have all the manuals I can't share them.
 

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Just changed my oil today and had a few questions.

Who out there really empties the oil cooler? I didn't have replacement seals so I didn't do it. It just seems like a pain in the arse for an extra .5 liter. Plus another potential leak.

Do you all replace the drain plug washer? I have a feeling I should have replaced mine.

Do you replace the rubber O-ring for the oil filter cover?

I noticed my drain plug must have been put on by a 500 pound gorilla. It took so much force to loosen that it slightly boogerd the head. I tried being careful when I tightened it. Does anyone know the correct torque the drain plug should be?
Tobysdad,

Both the drain plug and the oil filler plug disfigure when loosened despite the torque. The use of a hex socket drive for these plugs was a mistake given no matter what vehicle they're on and however they're torqued, vibration tightens them like a bugger and the hex head bit just bites in when loosening them.

Whenever I change the oil I put about a litre in after draining the old oil and without the filter on and a flat shampoo bottle with a hole cut out to fit over the filter outlet run the bike at idle until this oil runs out. This directs the oil down into the drain pan. Takes about 30 seconds to run through and flushes any dirty oil still in the lines. Don't know whether it flushes the oil filter and don't really care. I'll post a picture of the 'special tool' later.

Been doing it for years without damage, even on Harley's where the hydraulic lifters let you know when the oils not there. There is enough oil film over everything not to cause damage. On that note I await posts that disagree. Remember I'm talking a maximum of 30 secs here.

Cheers

Deano
 

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You can empty the oil heat exchanger by just cranking the engine.

This is the sequence I adopt.


  1. Drain the oil from sump into a collector beneath the bike (leave draining)
  2. Remove the oil filter, (oil in rails drains back into the sump and into the collector)
  3. Disconnect the Camshaft Position Sensor top right (so that the engine wont start)
  4. Crank the engine for a 5-10 seconds to empty heat exchanger into sump (again, wait a few minutes for oil to drain from sump into collector)
  5. Re-install Oil filter-drain plug- CPS
  6. Fill with oil
  7. Start engine, check for oil pressure & leaks
  8. Turn off engine check oil level
Hope this helps
 

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Ha!

Ok, my apologies.

Although It might still work? The oil cooling circuit is fed the same way from the secondary pump,, try it nothing to loose.
 

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You can empty the oil heat exchanger by just cranking the engine.

This is the sequence I adopt.


  1. Drain the oil from sump into a collector beneath the bike (leave draining)
  2. Remove the oil filter, (oil in rails drains back into the sump and into the collector)
  3. Disconnect the Camshaft Position Sensor top right (so that the engine wont start)
  4. Crank the engine for a 5-10 seconds to empty heat exchanger into sump (again, wait a few minutes for oil to drain from sump into collector)
  5. Re-install Oil filter-drain plug- CPS
  6. Fill with oil
  7. Start engine, check for oil pressure & leaks
  8. Turn off engine check oil level
Hope this helps
Sorry,but cranking the engine with drain plug out and no oil is not real good advice.:jsm:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1. The oil in the oil cooler, I would do it, you don't need new seals.

2. Replace the oil drain washer if it's buggered, if not sure, put some thread sealer on the plug. The torque settings are in the workshop manual for the F3, same deal mate, you just have to look a bit further.

3. If you have the o-ring, it should have come with the filter, change it.

This is why we encourage guys to put topics related to maintenance in that section, just add the model of your bike in the topic. There a lot of common things these bikes share, and until I have all the manuals I can't share them.
Thanks Donsy! Next time I'll put my maintenance questions in the correct section.
 

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No worries man.
I'm not top comfortable with cranking the engine to get oil out, I have done this once without any bad reactions, but I do worry about the oil pump more, rather than anything else.
 

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Cranking a motor with no oil in it is bad practise,like I said peviously.Why would you want to drain the oil,crank the motor,even if it is for 30 seconds,drain oil pump,then fill the system with oil.It will take longer to get oil pressure and supply essential parts with oil like camshafts.It's bad advice especially to owners learning to service there own bikes.
 

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+1000........cranking the engine without oil generates no pressure feed to the plain bearings on the crank. Even without combustion the compression forces on the con rods will create metal to metal contact on the upper rod bearing shell due to no oil film. That means immediate damage to that bearing. It probably will not manifest itself right away, but your rod bearing and crank bearings have just shortened their life expectancy dramatically.

This is why you put moly lube on plain bearing surfaces in assembly...to provide protection until the oil pressure gets there and washes the moly away.

Did you know that just the acidity of your finger tips skin will start etching on the surfaces of plain bearings? Always wear gloves when handling these bearings, or at least be careful to only touch the edges.
 

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re;
damage with no oil....

remember the STP test?????

they put STP in an engine then drained the oil and then drove it across the US

my friends tried to blow a 427 Chevy up drained the oil raced around for 15 minutes nothing....

they drained the water......that killed it

ever try to blow an engine up?

poured a pan full of washers down the intake of a V8 turning ~4,000rpm

makes neat noises:naughty:

until enough get to the squish area:jsm::jsm::jsm:
 

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re;
damage with no oil....

remember the STP test?????

they put STP in an engine then drained the oil and then drove it across the US

my friends tried to blow a 427 Chevy up drained the oil raced around for 15 minutes nothing....

they drained the water......that killed it

ever try to blow an engine up?

poured a pan full of washers down the intake of a V8 turning ~4,000rpm

makes neat noises:naughty:

until enough get to the squish area:jsm::jsm::jsm:
"nuff said.

Cheers

Deano
 

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Cranking speed for a few seconds on a starter motor without combustion pulse will not harm anything on a pre-lubed engine.
(camshaft are in an oil bath anyway)

Modern oil film strength is enormous, keeping surfaces apart under huge pressures and temperatures (noels example is good one).

If you don't feel you need to empty the oil heat exchanger for the 'perfect oil change' then the above is irrelevant :)
 

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As a point of interest Ricc, on the F3 and B3, you remove the ignition fuse and crank the bike as part of the oil change process, obviously some of the guys are not reading the workshop manuals ��.
On my bike I can obviously crank the motor without the bike starting, but on a regular ECU equipped F4 or B4, which fuse would you pull to prevent the bike from starting ?
 

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Thanks Donsy;

well, there you go folks the Factory tells you to crank a drained motor

don't know which fuse but pulling the spark plug caps will stop anything,

probably the crank trigger too

the Eaton oil pumps in MVs are tight enough to provide a minor amount of pressure even when sucking air......

you're not cranking for 5 minutes, just a few seconds
 

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Thanks Donsy;

well, there you go folks the Factory tells you to crank a drained motor

don't know which fuse but pulling the spark plug caps will stop anything,

probably the crank trigger too

the Eaton oil pumps in MVs are tight enough to provide a minor amount of pressure even when sucking air......

you're not cranking for 5 minutes, just a few seconds
Not quite to crank a drained motor Noel, but rather when re-filling it before/as you check the level. They don't have an oil level glass.
 
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