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Good morning / evening all.

I am doing a Bazzaz self mapper install which is really cool and was progressing well. However, when I took out the OEM O2 sensor it became very clear that it was not your typical 18 mm size. More like a 12mm.

The replacement Bazzaz O2 sensor is 18mm.

My question to you clever people, can I block of the original hole and shift the site closer to my slip on where access is easier, or should I use the original site which will be a bit of a fiddle?

I think I already know the answer but I am not experienced these matters.:)

Thanks for your thoughts :naughty:
 

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There's a lot of details about where they can go, and where's the best place to have it Glen, no set requirements from Bazzaz I assume ?.
I won't pretend to be an expert so I'll just say what I know, in this case the sensor has to go between the engine ports and the catalytic converter, always pointing downwards at some angle as they get destroyed by moisture.

Just out of interest, can you have more than one sensor on the Bazzaz, because one on each header would be perfect.
 

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Place them as close to the head as possible......

Water won't hurt them unless you pull the seal out of the back end

The run at over 660°F/350°C ......not much moisture around then
 

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Place them as close to the head as possible......

Water won't hurt them unless you pull the seal out of the back end

The run at over 660°F/350°C ......not much moisture around then
If one installed in the mid-pipe, as they are most of the time Noel, the condensation in the pipe back there can damage the sensor, I'm not talking about the wiring on the outside.

I know about having them close to the engine for better tuning, but I'm not sure how many Glen can connect to the Bazzaz, or if he's prepared to tune each cylinder one at a time.
 

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If one installed in the mid-pipe, as they are most of the time Noel, the condensation in the pipe back there can damage the sensor, I'm not talking about the wiring on the outside.
Well Donsy the people that disagree with you about moisture sensitivity are the folks at

NTK World's largest manufacturer of 02 sensors, go to their website.......

If it will survive 1000°F you think moisture is going to hurt it????

The outer covering of the 02 sensor is Platinum a very unreactive metal

the inner tube is made from zirconia ceramic.... the stuff fake diamonds and dental

Implants are made from

I have 4 Lambda meters and a data logger with one, so I'm familiar with them.....

Bob at RBRacing-RSR built me a dual channel one for my Aprilia RSVR twin

one dial 2 sets of LEDs
 

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Noel, I can't help it if you're to .... whatever, to try and understand what I'm saying, except that you feel that once again you have to argue without thinking about what I'm trying to say.
I'll leave this for members to read and they can make up their own minds.
http://wbo2.com/lsu/LsuInstal.pdf

From Bazzaz Glenn - https://www.bazzaz.net/instructions/O2sensor-data-sheet.pdf
Thanks chaps.

I am going to put it close it where it originally came from.

I would have used the original site, but unfortunately because of the size of the new sensor there is an obstruction that will be a nuisance.
 

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Donsy ....

How many years have you been using a Lambda meter???????

Not how many years have you had a vehicle with an 02 sensor

I learned EFI from Russ Collins and Bob at RBRacing-RSR.......they both get injectors

custom made by Robert Bosch GMBH and they are laser marked that way.......

Bob's last set of Harley injectors were $1,500 each......for a Bonneville bike

I'd love to see the number of people that think 4 channel mapping is necessary and

are capable of doing it......
 

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Donsy ....

How many years have you been using a Lambda meter???????

Not how many years have you had a vehicle with an 02 sensor

I learned EFI from Russ Collins and Bob at RBRacing-RSR.......they both get injectors

custom made by Robert Bosch GMBH and they are laser marked that way.......

Bob's last set of Harley injectors were $1,500 each......for a Bonneville bike

I'd love to see the number of people that think 4 channel mapping is necessary and

are capable of doing it......
I'm not talking about that at all Noel, Glenn asked where or how to install it, I told him what I knew.
I'm not arguing, you are.

Did you read the links I posted for the topic, I somehow doubt it, because by now you might have realised I'm talking about the insides of the sensor and the actual sensing equipment, and what causes failures.:stickpoke
I realise you know a lot, but is there no more room to learn more, or that maybe you don't always know everything that's new, that the world evolves and even the most experienced can be taught new things if they're open minded enough.:naughty:

I'll leave at this, people can make up their own minds mate.:yo:
 

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Donsy;
What is exposed to exhaust gasses in the sensor?

The stainless steel outer cover, Platinum tube and the zirconia ceramic inner body

none of these are affected by moisture

The electrical connections are not exposed at all to external moisture unless he rubber

grommet is pulled out

This is from NTK...... I have an NTK # OZAS 591-BB2 sensor in front of me

Yes, i checked your links......

Bazazz, I ignored

PS Bosch doesn't make pipes I do....... rarely are pipes horizontal or vertical so what do

the angles mean in 3 axii??? ....... Nothing

You want the sensor as close to the exhaust valve as possible ....for heat and to avoid

reversion .......just make them a straight shot to remove

Look at MV pipes .....they pair 1&2, 3&4......look at the firing order....... it's called stupid

The exhaust pulses are are all fucked up

You have to pair 1&4, 2&3........


:popcorn:
 

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Argh.
I'll try for a last time, asking as much as anything else.
Inside the unit is located certain sensitive materials which you mention, like the porous materials, these are not affected adversely by heat, rather designed to operate in heat and its reaction to heat and exhaust fumes is what gives us a reading. I'm not talking about the outside wires, I'm not talking about the inside or outside body, I'm talking about the actual sensing material inside the unit.
When the sensor is located in the wrong place, moisture caused when a bike is started and turned off before reaching optimum temps, some of the liquid inside the exhaust can run into the unit, coming in touch with the sensing materials and corroding or clogging them into failure. I think the moisture clogs the ceramics rather than corrodes anything else ?
I really hope this helps expressing what I'm trying to say, as this was how it was explained to me by a local guy tuning drag bikes for years, and would love to be proved wrong but I can't see anything anywhere else?
http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical-centre/lambda-sensors/how-does-the-lambda-sensor-work/
I don't for a moment doubt your other knowledge on tuning mate, I know nothing compared to you when it comes to those.
I'm not arguing, and learning a lot here.
 
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