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Hello, I'm new to the forum and was wondering whether anyone has any advice on fitting the NRC tail tidy / fender eliminator to an F3. It arrived without any fitting instructions and I'm at a loss! Thanks
 

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I have this tail tidy and it needs some refinement in my opinion. You see the single large hole in the triangular frame? That's for a single bolt to hold the entire piece in place on the frame where the old stock one was. How difficult would it be for them to punch 2 holes out instead and help keep it in place?

On the other side of the triangular piece they have some sticky tape or whatever to help hold it in place. This is stupid in my opinion because those will then cover part of the rear fairing. Should you ever need to take the fairing off? Well they obviously didn't think that far. Leave the pieces of tape/cover on; do not peel them off.

Overall I like the look of the tidy, but NRC just half-assed the production of this unit.
 

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I have this tail tidy and it needs some refinement in my opinion. You see the single large hole in the triangular frame? That's for a single bolt to hold the entire piece in place on the frame where the old stock one was. How difficult would it be for them to punch 2 holes out instead and help keep it in place?

On the other side of the triangular piece they have some sticky tape or whatever to help hold it in place. This is stupid in my opinion because those will then cover part of the rear fairing. Should you ever need to take the fairing off? Well they obviously didn't think that far. Leave the pieces of tape/cover on; do not peel them off.

Overall I like the look of the tidy, but NRC just half-assed the production of this unit.
Agree with you Spark. I installed this unit on my 675 RC and had to make some mods to it as well. I made a small plate out of 1/8" aluminum that fit on top of the brace that the original tail bolts to, drilled and tapped each corner to match the original tail bolts and drilled and tapped for the NRC bolt in the exact center of the plate (I think this bolt is 1/4"-20-don't know why they couldn't stay metric). Used the original bolts to bolt this plate in place on top of the brace. No nut or washer now needed for the center bolt. Also made a small L-bracket that is screwed to the back of the left LED plexi and is designed so that a fairing screw will retain the other end, keeping the unit from rotating. Left the tape on of course so disassembly would not be a pain. I also flipped the plate holder around (NRC logo facing forward) so the plate was not at such an extreme angle. On the electrical side, this unit caused a fast flash in the turn signals. Replaced the flasher unit with a $8.95 LF1-S-FLAT solid state flasher unit from superbrightleds.com (plug & play, same connector). This unit doesn't care what kind of lamps you have - 90 flashes/min always. Looks great and has been reliable so far, just not well engineered as you said Spark.
 

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Sorry to bring this post back alive. But I have bought dual load equalizer along with the tail tidy. Just wonder where is the ground wiring connect to? Much appreciated.
 

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The only piece of the original tail tidy I kept was the license plate mount, specifically the upper part of it with the integrated light. That's it. I mounted that component to a piece of aluminum I fashioned into a crude C shape, mounted onto the bolts of the ABS brake cover. I purchased an updated tail light from Whitelights that contained integrated turn signals for whenever I ride it on the road. The Whitelights piece has built-in resistors and solved the fast flash issue. The NRC kit is a waste of money.
 

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I just got one installed for my 17 Brutale 800. It fits very well. I have the front matching indicators to go with it. I like it a lot - they really clean the bike up very well.

All I want to do now is replace the halogen headlight bulbs with a set of LED lights but I can't find a damned thing about whether I need a CANBUS, if there is a kit small enough, or where I could even buy single H3 and H11 lights in the first place (rather than a pack of two each).
 

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That LED headlight equalizer is for vehicles that have CANBUS electronics.

It is NOT a CANBUS.

The technology, if you read the write up in the link you posted, prevents flicker from load differences in the headlight.
 

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That LED headlight equalizer is for vehicles that have CANBUS electronics.

It is NOT a CANBUS.

The technology, if you read the write up in the link you posted, prevents flicker from load differences in the headlight.

So I just need a load equalizer and lights that fit

I'm new at this so forgive my ignorance =P
 

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I believe that to be true, but I am not someone who has done one of these conversions, nor am I a fan of them.
 
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