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Discussion Starter #1
Last week a colleague moved the bike, 750 Evo 03, my pride and joy (bought last year new from DMA Racing) just from one garage to an adjacent one (SW1 London). When I come to get on for the weekend no life at all, even from display. Assuming its been left in park with lights on I wait over 2 hours for boost from recovery. Starts fine and was charging OK when running. But as revs reduced at first junction, into turn, all electrics go and despite Herculean efforts, drops. Now my ego is in tatters but as I have no distance to go push bike put it back into garage. Recovery have left for next job and all I get is "It'll be another 2 hours mate." Sod that battery dead anyway. Now 3 days later realising battery stuffed, have changed battery. Still no life but checking fuses 'Master+Latch Relays Dashboard' had gone. Change this and suddenly only sign of life is in 7.5amp fuse blowing, again. I don't want to mess about and risk damaging electrics further but have been onto local MV agents but all too busy till 3rd week September, some recession. Only option to get carried to original supplier 100 miles away for them to investigate. Any ideas anyone as to what fault may actually be. Have given up hope for bank holiday weekend though :cry:
 

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My heart goesn out to you buddy. I cant advise on whats wrong but when you get your fine italian motorcycle back up and running we can meet up for a Coffee. Im in Buckinghamshire, theres a few other locals on here
 

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Blowing one of the 7.5 amp fuses after fitting a replacement battery is normally an indicator that the battery has been fitted incorrectly (i.e. reverse polarity). This causes the diode on the back of the general relay to fail and cause a dead short from positive to negative so even when the battery is re-installed correctly the fuse will blow due to the failed diode.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, fortunately I thought of that and double checked before attaching. Also went to trouble of buying Yuasa YTZ10 S exact replacement so less margin for error in moving connections around. Unless boost was connected wrong way initially but then why would it start. Is it possible to test diode or if blown is it obvious. I certainly don't want to tamper and risk further damage. Thanks for input .
 

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You can visually inspect the diode, if it shows any sign of physical damage then it's a fairly save bet it has failed, however, if the diode visually appears to be good it doesn't necessarily mean it's fine so further testing would be required. In order to reduce the chance that the test results may be skewed by the relay coil or some other connected device you will need to remove/disconnect at least one leg of the diode.

The diode itself is a fairly cheap component (i.e. pennies) and should be available from electronics suppliers such as Maplin, you could just do what the majority of others do and just change it to be sure rather than test it. If you do replace it be sure to check and confirm the correct orientation prior to refitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Diode change worked, I had connected battery incorrectly. Dumb a** that I am but at least bike running and weekend not lost. I get some consolation that given multiple posts on issue I am not the only one to make the mistake with battery.
Battery not charging and though alarm setting it is being triggered within 20 seconds so I have to leave off. As garaged not a big issue for now. Hopefully the charging issue will resolve when I check recharge fuse tomorrow. Thanks Hartley Hare for input.
 

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Hey Driller, if your alarm is a Datatool you should be able to put it in to Service Mode, then it will just beep every 15sec instead of going off?
 

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Despite my 2006 F41000 R is being extremely fast with the aftermarket cans, K&N filter and power commander, reaching and keeping full speed at 318 km/h, the engine went silent (broke down) 2 weeks ago. I´ve had it for 3000 km, it had 6.000 km when I bought it. The owner before me used to race it in tracks.......hum...The oil was fine, and I wasn´t going at crazy speeds by the time it shut down ( just above 220 km/h when I had to stop at a traffic light). The engine just stopped. Is that expected in a bike that is supposed to go (extremely) fast without any problems? I read reliability is good in the F4, so imagine my expression when the dealer said the engine had given it´s soul to the Creator...
Now I´m loosing my best summer days, unable to ride it,... and lost some confidence on it...
I´m thinking of taking the aftermarket parts out so the bike lasts longer...is that going to make a difference? Or was the guy that used to race it in tracks that «prepared» the engine for this surprise?
Any ideas / comments from you guys? Tx
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can order from Maplin, mail order or in shop, at 16p each ( but postage is £3 ). What you want is a recifier diode, Part number 1N4007S. The Maplin quick code is QL79L. I can tell you though it is a hell of a lot easier and significantly less stress not putting the battery in the wrong way to start with.
The recharge fuse was changed, there is a spare on the bike, this 40amp fuse was all that was needed and I have been down to Rykers this morning already. Bike running sweetly. No so good was the two bodies on the road in the space of a mile coming back, separate bike accidents, one moving the other not. Be careful out there this weekend.
 

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My heart goesn out to you buddy. I cant advise on whats wrong but when you get your fine italian motorcycle back up and running we can meet up for a Coffee. Im in Buckinghamshire, theres a few other locals on here

Submariner - you weren't by any chance on the M25 going clockwise on Monday 27 July were you? Saw a 750 identical to mine go the other way and Buckinghamshire sounds about the right area of it (I was heading towards Heathrow)
 
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