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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,
I have what I think is an interesting problem. 2013 1090 with Melotti LED and fender eliminator. Installed the resistors along with the lights. Things where going great. Installed and op's checked. The blinkers where working great while only on the battery. Then I started the bike; you know, just to make sure. The lights blinked once and went off. Then I turned off the bike and was on just battery power when the lights started flashing like advertised. Repeated a couple of times and have the same problem. Battery only lights blink, engine running(or when the headlight turns on with the engine start,can't tell which) lights blink once and remain off.
Any thoughts? Need a new flasher, different resistor? Thanks
RUDY
 

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Rudy,
Lose the resistors. Your MV is designed to use the LED signals alone. I had the same issue with my 2010. Scratched my head for a minute before realizing the OEM signals were already LED and I was introducing too much resistance by using resistors on top of the new LED signals.
Palerider
 

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Palerider has this correct!
 

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Is the 2012 model the same? I am replacing the front mirrors with Rizoma mirrors which have the built in LED signals and want to make sure they are a direct connect without the resistors. Since the stock mirrors are LED I assume there should be no need for resistors, but want to make sure before I burn up a $250 mirror
 

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Yes, the fronts are also LED...

Which Rizomas?
 

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Is the 2012 model the same? I am replacing the front mirrors with Rizoma mirrors which have the built in LED signals and want to make sure they are a direct connect without the resistors. Since the stock mirrors are LED I assume there should be no need for resistors, but want to make sure before I burn up a $250 mirror

Yup 2012 is the same. LEDs front and back
 

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If your flashers only work once, your load is too high. Go for more ohms.

If your flasher are too fast, your load is too small.
 

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Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Took resistors off and got the fast flash. My bike has incandescent turn signals. Its a Brutale NO R. So I'll take my resistors to work tomorrow and put them on a multi meter to see what their current Ohms rating is. Then bump it up a notch.
 

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Hey Rudy,

You mentioned tat you have a multimeter in place. So go on like this:

First measure the amperage of the single original indicator (each one, just to be precise) on a 12V power source, like a battery.
Then measure the amperage of the new indicator with which you want to race the original one.
Please don't rely on the values that are printed on the indicator glasses, they're often just "rough estimations". ;-)

After this you need to use Ohm's law to adjust the needed additional (parallel) resistor so that the total resistance of the new indicator in combination with the additional (parallel) resistor comes near to the value of the one that you measured with the original indicator alone. Just do it for each indicator and you're done.

Sounds complicated, but it's just an easy calculation. :)

You can also post both amperages that you've measured here and I am sure that you immediately receive a good hint about the needed size of the resistor. :)
 

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Need help here too, I'm trying to install CNC Racing LEDs on a 2012 1090R (swapping from OEM bulbs) I've tried every schema with the CNC resistor and using dual resistors and the stock bulb on the rear blinks once, lights work fine off the battery and resistors get warm, and I've tested the amperage from the battery to the original indicators to be 0.51A.

Has anyone successfully got these installed w/o a different relay on a 1090 or 1090R?
 

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Looking at the Parts Diagram, the rear signals are probably already LED; therefore, no resistor required. The fronts, in the mirrors, are LED.

In 2013 those bulbs switched to LED. The bulbs are HY 6W.

479929
 

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Looking at the Parts Diagram, the rear signals are probably already LED; therefore, no resistor required. The fronts, in the mirrors, are LED.

In 2013 those bulbs switched to LED. The bulbs are HY 6W.
Hmm they all look incandescent to me... im new to the brutale 1090 (r) and i dont think they are LED. only the RR i thought?
 

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479930

479931


Are you certain you are not an R model?
 

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Then you have to match the load on the system to what is there with the bulbs in place.
 

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I have a 2013 Brutale 1090 ABS (no "R"). It had 6W halogen bulbs. I measured the existing resistance and it is 2 ohms

I replaced all four turns signals with .5 watt LED's and have it working, without fast flash, and with the hazard lights working.

I installed 2 ohm resistors in series for each of the four turn signals to simulate the resistance of the existing bulbs. I also installed a 28 ohm resistor in parallel to offset the 5.5 watt difference.

I've been running this for several days without issue, plus bar end turns signals look sweet.
 
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