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Discussion Starter #1
Hello-

I purchased a Used 20016 Brutale 910 R from a gentleman in suburban Washington, DC.

I went up Sunday to pick up the bike and ride it back home to Nashville, TN.

The Good:

Well, mostly everything-great handling, new Rosso II tires (not my faves, but won't last long, so no biggie), really good wind resistance-very comfortable, the sound, the fury...

The Bad:

1. Had a K&N Filter blow out about (YUP-Right at The End Nut Thingum) 60 miles after leaving.

Lucky me, I noticed smoke, had an exit handy, took it and limped into a Shell station full of nice folks and an Advanced Auto Parts shop 1/2 mile away.
They had the shorter version of the oil filter handy (204-there was a 303 on the bike-the 204made it easier to reinstall, for sure).
Even luckier me, I didn't effing crash out, as the rear tire was SOAKED with oil.
Luckiest me, yet? Still had about 1 qt of oil left in the bike after it puked a quart onto the ground after "Landing", left some more after removing the old filter, etc, so the mill was always lubricated.
Cost me about 2.5 hours, but I still made it to the Nashville Side of Knoxville before shutting down for the night.

2. The front headlight lens seems a bit too easy to remove, though the o-ring around it seems reasonably intact/fresh and it didn't come off during 630 miles of riding from DC to Nashville. What should I do about that?

The Situation at Hand:


I took delivery of a motorcycle, a key and a title; the owner has shipped out to Kuwait and his friend was a man of few words, so I didn't get a ton of info before heading out, other than the issue with the SPU was taken care of and a few other maintenance things were done, new tires, fresh oil (!), radiator fluid, etc.

What I didn't get were any more keys, a manual, things of that nature.

The Newbie to 910R Question Set:

1. Any better suggestions for a filter that isn't a K&N? How about oil? (Just Kidding)
1a. Should I replace the KN-204 with the KN-303, should I trust reinstalling one of their filters?
2. I have but one key, and it doesn't seem to fit the lock under the seat-should there be another?
3. How about changing settings on the dashboard?
I have Total Miles displayed, but there's only the grey "Set" button and it seems to not do much, but I don't know how to get to a trip mileage indicator or anything like that; is it even n option on this bike?
4. Oil Level-should this be viewed with the bike on the sidestand, or with the bike level?

I'm certain I'll have more questions, and I have sought an owner's manual online to answer some of these (no luck) but, for as imperfect a situation as I have here, I'm loving yet another MV Agusta motorcycle.

I finally dove off the superslab near Center Hill Dam and hit a few twisty bits and, I should say, the willingness to lean rather far over was really confidence inspiring right out of the gate and I can't wait to check it out some more.

Thanks, as always, for any and all suggestions/help.

Best to all!


King Williams
 

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Hi use a purolator PL14612 OIL FILTER 2/ reglue that headlamp lens otherwise it will fall out you cant buy them
3/ when the engine is running pres the starter button to scroll through functions
oil level check when bike is level .
 

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People will correct me IF I am wrong, but I do believe you will want to "re-glue" the headlight glass on.

Per Noel on here use: 3M Window Weld
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good Evening!

Thank You for all the answers and advice, I'll take it all to the bank!

I am still wondering-should there be a second key to get underneath the seat?

OH-how do folks get at the rear brake fluid reservoir?

Is that simply a seat removal thing, or is it more than that?

Being unable, yet, to remove the seat, I am left wondering...

Thanks again, everyone for your help, I really appreciate your time taken in sending me advice.

Cheers and Best Regards,

King Williams
 

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Your bike's seat lock is changed. One key fits all: ignition, fuel cap and seat lock. There should be no separate keys for it. At least that's how it is on my 910R.

Cheers,
Laur.
 

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Should (will) be the same key. Bang down hard on the top at the back of the seat (the pointy bit near the tail light) as you try to turn the key. Once it's off spray the cable lock with WD40/CRC etc.

Cheers

Deano
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank You, Again, Gentlemen!

I did manage to get the key to unlock the seat-turns out, it is only supposed to go in halfway, which is kinda wacky, but I'll take it.

There was an owner's manual, a small tool kit and a snug place to harbor the all important registration.

I've teflon lubed the keyhole and lithium greased the works (what I had on hand).

It's a Go now!

Now, to figure out how to get a copy of the ONE key I have; this isn't a transponder key, is it?

Best,

King Williams
 

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It is not a transponder key.
 
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Welcome to the family. !!! And a good choice of bikes.

How many miles on your new to you MV?

Pay particular attention to the chain adjustment. DO NOT over tighten the chain... a bit loose is better than too tight. DO NOT over tighten the swing arm pinch bolts when you adjust the chain.

DO reglue the headlight glass. Ride and enjoy.

Consider joining us at the Gapalicious... do a search.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that, I'll get a blank from somewhere and have a spare cut, then.

Thanks for the welcome! I am very happy with this one, too; I can't wait to get the F3 back and see exactly how they stack up, though there is definitely a familial similarity, to me.

Well, since Sunday, I've put about 800 or so miles on it myself; the ride from the DC are was around 630 miles and I've been puttering about on it locally to the tune of another 150-180 miles.

I believe that the total is about 6700 miles now.

I would love to join in for Gapalicious, and am hoping to at least come by for the last Saturday/Sunday, if I can get off from work.

Thanks, again, everyone, you all have been MOST helpful, and I really am in your debt...

Cheers and Very Best,

King
 

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Discussion Starter #12
CORRECTION

About 5700 miles now-I took delivery at just over 4900 miles.

its been a looong week already!

-K
 

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King...
Always double check the pillion when you put it back on...e.g. give it a small tug or bang it down to ensure it's locked in place....hundreds have flown off to their owner's deep frustration.

You have an awesome machine there and the more you maintain and ride...the better she'll play.

Welcome to our family
 

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MV key blanks are on Ebay, but only the "new" design --
 

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King...
Always double check the pillion when you put it back on...e.g. give it a small tug or bang it down to ensure it's locked in place....hundreds have flown off to their owner's deep frustration.
Very important, been there and done that!

I now use a length of paracord tied to the subframe to a safety clip on the seat as backup form of attachment.
 

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?

King;
If you just want a plain key for your MV, Ace True Value hardware stores have the blanks

Take the 28-32Nm sticker off the swing arm and retorque the pinch bolts to 15lbft/20Nm NO MORE

OR, you might be PMing me for a new hub bearing

>:)
 

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Sorry to derail a little bit, but regarding the post above - do the hub issues affect ALL B4's, or only the old ones? Does my 2015 1090R have the same failure-prone hub?
 

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Hey mate, the 'issues' with the Hub generally relate to them not being serviced on a regular basis. The Hub was redesigned for Gen-2 platforms (920, 990, 1090) and when I say redesigned, we're not talking about a material shift in design. They do have a difference ball-bearing configuration yet the original needle bearings are still the same.

Several years ago, "Mitchy" Designed and built a sensational after-market hub that surpassed the original Gen1 design specs and those that have installed them absolutely love them.

However, the there are two key aspects to consider regarding your stock hub:

1. Do not overtighten the pinch bolts (the Knurl recommends 20nm instead of the stated rating)

2. Inspect and Service the Hub on a regular basis (clean and re-grease) - this achieves some other major benefits
a) you are regularly removing the rear wheel and re-greasing the rear axle nut - these can be prone to seizing
b) you are removing and checking the sprocket, carrier and cush drives, chain etc.
c) the rear pinch bolts are regularly and correctly torqued
c) you will develop a sense on what your riding (weather, cleaning, riding input etc.) does the to hub


Cheers
 
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