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I am performing this update myself. Got everything off and then find out I do not have a large enough socket to remove the center nut that holds the entire basket into place. Can anyone please confirm for me what size nut this is? I am guessing 32mm but wanted to confirm before i order a new one.
 

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</td><td itemprop="name">I can check when I'm in my garage. Not sure if you have the special tool or impact wrench it but there is a video that shows a nice and easy way to do it with a simple strap:



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I am performing this update myself. Got everything off and then find out I do not have a large enough socket to remove the center nut that holds the entire basket into place. Can anyone please confirm for me what size nut this is? I am guessing 32mm but wanted to confirm before i order a new one.
 

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I used an impact wrench to get the center nut off and it worked a charm. Just make sure the bike is in neutral as I believe the shock is not safe for the hardened gears in the transmission!

I used a loong thin socket over one of the hub fingers (the ones the springs screw into) and as you start impacting the hub will rotate until the socket locks against the body of the wrench thereby starting to undo the center nut. Otherwise the impact wrench may just keep rotating the center hub.
 

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Ugh, people, please re-read my post. I am not asking *how* to do this, I am asking if 32mm is the correct size.
 

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Ugh, people, please re-read my post. I am not asking *how* to do this, I am asking if 32mm is the correct size.
Put a tape measure across the flats and measure it. The conversion from english to metric is INCHES x 25.4 = mm
 

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Just sharing a useful technique that keeps people from using an impact tool. Looks like you got your answer though.


Ugh, people, please re-read my post. I am not asking *how* to do this, I am asking if 32mm is the correct size.
 

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Any tips on getting the old basket separated from the flange gear? Mine is stuck on there very tight with no movement or play.

Update: I managed to finally get them separated. I tried softly banging the center with a rubber mallet with no success. Finally what worked was using a flathead screwdriver to pry around the outside very gently. Crude, but it worked.

One update I did want to add was that the service bulletin directions are off in my opinion. It tells you to insert the rubber cush drives into the new basket first, which is a mistake. Place the rubber cush onto the flange first, then apply a bit of oil to each spot on the basket, and then insert the flange into the basket.
 

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You know that oil degrades rubber, right?
 

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Yes, but they are running in an oil bath environment.....depends on the rubber formulation.
The rear cush rubbers are in an oil bath?
 

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You know that oil degrades rubber, right?
Yes, but they are running in an oil bath environment.....depends on the rubber formulation.
The rear cush rubbers are in an oil bath?
Ok, so I am an idiot.>:) I thought we were talking about the rear cush drive rubbers. I am still not used to talking about CLUTCH BASKET cush drive rubbers.

Sorry...go back to the intelligent thread already in progress.:smoking::loser:
 

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I am encountering some type of problem, and bear with me since this is the first time I've disassembled the clutch on this bike.

I'm placing the clutch cover back on and my problem now appears that there is too much slack in my clutch cable. Of course, I never even touched the clutch cable. The cover is making contact with the center pin on the bearing inside. The outside metal lever which connects to the clutch cable on the exterior of the clutch cover, I connect and then swing around in order to latch onto the pin and the lever rests pointing in the direction of the engine. I attach the cable, there is no resistance at all. There is no 'pull' from the clutch. Did I screw something up in the reassembly? I made certain to go over everything twice when seating all of the disks. Did I over or under torque the center nut?

Should the center clutch pin want to normally pull back in the direction of the engine? I can move it in and out with some resistance (with the cover off).

One thing I forgot to mention is that when reassembling the clutch, the pusher plate does spin freely. I have to use a clutch tool in order to hold it in place to tight the 6 screws. I do remember NOT having to do this in order to remove them, thus the pusher plate stayed in place on its own. What am I missing here?
 

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You have put something together wrong.... take it all apart. Study the parts diagram or the engineering drawing of the assembly in the service manual...start over.
 
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I am encountering some type of problem, and bear with me since this is the first time I've disassembled the clutch on this bike.

I'm placing the clutch cover back on and my problem now appears that there is too much slack in my clutch cable. Of course, I never even touched the clutch cable. The cover is making contact with the center pin on the bearing inside. The outside metal lever which connects to the clutch cable on the exterior of the clutch cover, I connect and then swing around in order to latch onto the pin and the lever rests pointing in the direction of the engine. I attach the cable, there is no resistance at all. There is no 'pull' from the clutch. Did I screw something up in the reassembly? I made certain to go over everything twice when seating all of the disks. Did I over or under torque the center nut?

Should the center clutch pin want to normally pull back in the direction of the engine? I can move it in and out with some resistance (with the cover off).

One thing I forgot to mention is that when reassembling the clutch, the pusher plate does spin freely. I have to use a clutch tool in order to hold it in place to tight the 6 screws. I do remember NOT having to do this in order to remove them, thus the pusher plate stayed in place on its own. What am I missing here?
Did you put the 6 springs back when putting the clutch back together? Sorry if it sounds obvious, but it honestly sounds like you didn't?
 

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Did you put the 6 springs back when putting the clutch back together? Sorry if it sounds obvious, but it honestly sounds like you didn't?
Yes of course.

Thinking about it last night I'm betting that possibly I overtorqued the 32mm nut, and I will also try reseating the 6 springs again in a more even fashion since I remembered I didn't do this on the springs fitting to the pusher plate. I'll report back results tonight or tomorrow.

If anyone has a moment and willing to do this for me, whenever you remove your clutch cover, does the center pin have significant resistance if you try pulling it out or pushing it in? I know the springs should be keeping the pusher plate in place but on mine it's able to be spun freely, and that's what has me thinking the 32mm nut may be overtorqued.
 

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Not sure over tightening the center nut that secures the clutch assembly to the transmission shaft could cause what you are describing.

If anything, it would lock the basket and hub together, rendering the clutch inoperative (would never disengage). But you would have to massively over tighten, deforming internal parts, to do that.

If the pressure plate is rotating freely when you try to tighten the spring screws then the clutch is slipping completely....no friction occurring within the plate stack that transfers power from the basket (driven by the crankshaft) to the hub (driving the transmission shaft).

You have something not assembled properly...like you left out a plate??? Take it all apart and start over.
 

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I have not had time to completely retry the build again, just got it disassembled a bit. I have come to the conclusion however that the center pin was stuck inside too stiffly in order to be causing the issue I described, so when I go through everything again and reassemble I'll try to see what is causing this. I have all the friction and steel discs in the basket correctly, there is nothing missing. I did place a bit of oil on the friction discs when I put them back in, so that could easily be the reason why the pusher plate is spinning now. When it is disassembled now with the center nut removed, yet the basket is still in place, I can easily slide that center pin in and out of where it fits, so if that center nut torque did not do it, then the only other thing I can think of is maybe lubing the circular bearing it fits inside and try again.
 

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I've determined my problem. My pusher plate is not making physical contact with the outer most friction disk when I go to reassemble everything. There is like a 2mm gap. If you take a look at this pic showing everything installed correctly, mine has a gap that is not allowing the pusher plate to make contact, so I'm continuing the troubleshooting of why.


 
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