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Discussion Starter #1
Generally speaking...is there any wiggle/negotiation room on the price of a new MV, assuming an all cash purchase?

Im getting my ducks in order for my next MV and I would be interested to hear how some of you approach the purchase price issue - I'm not much of a negotiator and would enjoy knowing how others here operate.
 

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Hi, Manhattan here as well. Not sure if this helps, but in the few hours that I was considering a current model MV, I saw a few 2012 leftovers at Beverly Cycles.
 

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I would presume that you have a dealer in mind? From my point of view that is more important than an upfront discount, and is worth a lot of $ in the longer term.
 

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I am curious....why would you do an all cash deal? Given the low cost of capital for anyone that has a reasonable credit score. If people were giving away free money, would'nt you take it. Keeping the cash affords you the choice, thus options, if you so decide to pay off the loan at a later date. There is no substitute for liquid. Of course this assumes that you have other more effective uses of your cash than what would otherwise be your effective interest rate of a loan. I know there will be some that disagree with me on this subject so I welcome the insight. From a negotiation standpoint, I don't think it makes a bit of difference to the dealership if its cash or not. I think there are some retired/current car dealer members here on the forum so they might have a different perspective on that subject.

My recommendation would be to buy very slightly used MV at this juncture rather than a new. You can always negotiate every deal but buying a slightly used one will be far less expensive for a variety of reasons (regional/national market conditions, supply, etc.). Also, I don't believe there are any substantive or appreciable differences in the new models over previous years.

Whatever you do. Good luck.

Todd
 

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I roll my bike into my office at work and keep it in an insured garage at night so I don't need theft insurance. I pay about 180 a year on just the insurance I need. AFAIK the premium would be considerably higher if I didn't own my bike.

I am curious....why would you do an all cash deal? Given the low cost of capital for anyone that has a reasonable credit score. If people were giving away free money, would'nt you take it. Keeping the cash affords you the choice, thus options, if you so decide to pay off the loan at a later date. There is no substitute for liquid. Of course this assumes that you have other more effective uses of your cash than what would otherwise be your effective interest rate of a loan. I know there will be some that disagree with me on this subject so I welcome the insight. From a negotiation standpoint, I don't think it makes a bit of difference to the dealership if its cash or not. I think there are some retired/current car dealer members here on the forum so they might have a different perspective on that subject.

My recommendation would be to buy very slightly used MV at this juncture rather than a new. You can always negotiate every deal but buying a slightly used one will be far less expensive for a variety of reasons (regional/national market conditions, supply, etc.). Also, I don't believe there are any substantive or appreciable differences in the new models over previous years.

Whatever you do. Good luck.

Todd
 

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I roll my bike into my office at work and keep it in an insured garage at night so I don't need theft insurance. I pay about 180 a year on just the insurance I need. AFAIK the premium would be considerably higher if I didn't own my bike.
Ok, that is one additional consideration. However, it would have to be meaningful difference to make a tenable justification. Not being thick headed, just trying to understand.
 

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Also consider that if he was getting a loan from a bank or credit union it would still be an all cash sale as far as the dealer is concerned.
 

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I am curious....why would you do an all cash deal?

Simple.....I don't want any debt. I have a 3% mortgage, and I can't wait to pay it off early.

Additionally, I personally believe that you should never finance any type of lifestyle choice. Any motorcycle purchase is a lifestyle choice in my mind.

Education, shelter, and basic transportation qualify for reasonable debt in my opinion, but Rolex, Mercedes, Ritz Carlton, et. all should be paid for in cash.
 

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100%

Simple.....I don't want any debt. I have a 3% mortgage, and I can't wait to pay it off early.

Additionally, I personally believe that you should never finance any type of lifestyle choice. Any motorcycle purchase is a lifestyle choice in my mind.

Education, shelter, and basic transportation qualify for reasonable debt in my opinion, but Rolex, Mercedes, Ritz Carlton, et. all should be paid for in cash.
Best advice you'll get anywhere on this planet.
 

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Best advice you'll get anywhere on this planet.

What about: "Life is too short to marry a mean ugly woman, or ride an ugly motorcycle?" :laughing:
 

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Simple.....I don't want any debt. I have a 3% mortgage, and I can't wait to pay it off early.

Additionally, I personally believe that you should never finance any type of lifestyle choice. Any motorcycle purchase is a lifestyle choice in my mind.

Education, shelter, and basic transportation qualify for reasonable debt in my opinion, but Rolex, Mercedes, Ritz Carlton, et. all should be paid for in cash.
^^^^^ + 1,000,000. Financing toys is never a god idea.
 

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Simple.....I don't want any debt. I have a 3% mortgage, and I can't wait to pay it off early.

Additionally, I personally believe that you should never finance any type of lifestyle choice. Any motorcycle purchase is a lifestyle choice in my mind.

Education, shelter, and basic transportation qualify for reasonable debt in my opinion, but Rolex, Mercedes, Ritz Carlton, et. all should be paid for in cash.
I figured you would say that and genuinely respect your opinion Randy.
 

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Not Always

Have to agree there. That's why I also wait and buy my toys after they have depreciated somewhat in cash. They are still just as good as they were a few years ago at a FRACTION of the original price.

If you do ALL the math the finance charges, depreciation costs and insurance costs really add up. Most people look at the cost as a monthly payment which is exactly where the finance industry wants you to look.
Yes I did that with my 750 America, I waited 35 years and I paid a FRACTION of the original price - that fraction of the original price was 21/4 or more commonly referred to as 525%. :jsm: Good plan!!!! :laughing:
 

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The last week of each month and the last couple months of each year are the best times to buy. Bike stores have unit sales goals to hit, let them know you are serious and ready to buy. Test ride a couple bikes, ask them if they currently have any incentives, let them know you've been in touch with another MV store. Don't drool, be willing to take a color combo that isn't as popular. If they need the sale more than you need the bike, you win. Most of the MV stores here on the West Coast, USA also sell Ducati and they always have some special going.:smoking:
 

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No plan is foolproof as they say. :)

I tend to be slightly turned off by super desirable vehicles anyway though. I have wanted an early air cooled 911 for years now but the insanity with some of the pricing puts a bad taste in my mouth. When the price starts climbing it gets harder to justify buying. I think some people would call that "being cheap" :)

Too true about no plan being foolproof :laughing:

I know what you are saying, I had the same thought processes about 'justifying' but ultimately, if you can afford it (as per the framework of the finanacial essence of this thread) then you don't have to justify it - you can just go ahead & do it.

Having said that, I don't think being cheap has anything to do with it either - it's either inside or outside your comfort zone.

Of course, the final bit of the equation is the 'other half' (if one exists) then their input & support is is hyper important to the whole feeling good vibe of a purchase.

Heck, we've gone from financial prudence to philosophy. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks all for your thoughts. My purchase wont be until next spring as I am in NE and buying now only means garaging it immediately.

As for finance vs. cash yes there are several advantages on both sides. However my cash purchases are to avoid the massive insurance requirement (several thousand dollars per year) that accompanies buying on a loan, said costs FAR outweighing any benefit of a low interest loan - and theft insurance isn't by me required due to the safe housing situation (and I never ever leave bike parked unaccompanied on streets etc.).
 

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2 Questions

Negotiating: Keep in mind you're not buying a mass produced vehicle so a dealer is not inclined to quickly offer a discount. Other things you want to keep in mind is that you'll more than likely bring the bike back to that shop if there are any issues. Do you want to be remembered as the "guy who was a pain in the ass" when it came to the sale?
Typically, as the year comes to an end, most motorcycle dealers waive the shipping and set up fees. An interesting thing I've found on this forum are comments such as, "I've never paid for shipping and set-up fees on a motorcycle. And if you did, you're getting ripped off." However, if you look at MVs prior to 2011/10, the bikes were shipped to the dealer with lots of goodies, such as cover and stand. Accordingly, some forum members complained they didn't receive these items with the bike purchase. They had to pay extra. I was unable to determine if the people who got their bike for a discount also received all the items that were in the crate. And some probably got both because they've established a relationship with their local dealer. So as you can see, there are a lot of factors that play into this equation.
Are you looking for a discount for the sake of the discount or is the price within or out of reach? If the price is out of reach, I suggest you look for a used model. Parts and service for the MV are anything but reasonable.

Insurance: Having lived in several different states, the major factors that influence rates are the zip code (physical home address), driving record, age, comprehensive or liability coverage, uninsured motorist and usage (miles). As stated by forum members, I don't finance my toys. But just because I purchase it outright, I don't choose liability coverage. I have full comprehensive. If you can't afford to have it fully insured, then i might recommend looking at another motorcycle. As an insurance agent, I would probably be more than happy to let you dump the theft option because statistics clearly show most claims occur a vehicle is in motion.

Please don't take this the wrong way, my comments are meant to be supportive. Like everyone else, I love discounts. Plan your budget (and decision) on a worse case scenario (aka no discount on bike and full comprehensive insurance). Good luck with your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Liquid.

The only reason for my inquiry was because I dont want to simply walk into the shop and plunk down "sticker price" if there are aspects (such as shipping as you mentioned) that may be negotiable. I simply dont know what typically may or may not be negotiable since I dont buy new bikes each year as many on here do.

The price is not out of reach by any measure since I have a great and stable job, great savings, no significant other to pay for, no kids to support, etc. Insurance cost is also not at issue. However, since theft is not a factor, I dont feel inclined to pay that extra cost. I believe strongly in adequate insurance, not overinsurance.
 

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Obmat,

I used to sell cars for a living. Here's a few pointers:

1. Paying cash doesn't get you a better deal. This a common misconception. The dealership makes money on the financing and prefers you to finance the vehicle.

2. When it comes to negotiating, he who speaks first loses. You want the salesperson to give you a number first and work from there. Never accept the first offer.

3. You can't be emotionally invested in the thing you're negotiating for. If you are, you'll come from a position of weakness. In reality, this is hard to do because you really want the bike! To the extent that you can, don't let the fact that you really want the bike show.

Also, remember that motorcycles don't have a whole lot of mark-up in them, (10 to 15%), and the dealership, as well as the salesman, has to make a living. If you're negotiate hard and long enough, you may succeed at getting the bike at dealer cost, ("tissue"), but you'll also have made a giant pain-in-the-ass out of yourself, and they'll remember you. And when I say, "remember," I don't mean in a good way.

Be fair about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
influx, thanks (!) thats actually exactly what i was looking for; Im not in it to be an asshat and drive hardcore negotiations, as said above i just dont want to go in and plunk down sticker if that isnt necessary.

Interestingly, on my '06 i did pretty well quite by accident, I negotiated a little - only to find out that I was referring to pre-tax and fees "base" price, while he was referring to total out-the-door price - ultimately we ended up $1800 below sticker and I then realized that was the FINAL cost not the pre-tax/fees cost. Yay!
 
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