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I suspect that connector is from a retrofitted battery tender.
The tank is not likely not sitting properly because the crank case breather is incorrectly routed.
Why do people have pre load adjusters like that? Its not like you are riding along or at the lights adjusting your pre load 馃槃
 

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Hard to tell with looking past the preload weirdness but the FBF bit might be a mounting bracket for a rod damper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I suspect that connector is from a retrofitted battery tender.
The tank is not likely not sitting properly because the crank case breather is incorrectly routed.
Why do people have pre load adjusters like that? Its not like you are riding along or at the lights adjusting your pre load 馃槃
" pre load adjusters" I have no idea. It's odd, that setup. Like valves on a 1930s Buck Rodgers movie prop spacecraft.
Ah, precious previous...
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owners...

"crank case breather is incorrectly routed" Mmm. We'll see.
 

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To my eye, the FBF parts are just aftermarket clip ons, potentially bar risers. F4 750s have LOW stock bars. The upper triple clamp and right engine side cover looks like aluminum polishing, while the exhaust seems like it may have been Jet Hot coated. The pipes themselves look like carbon fiber Silmoto/Ferracci. Remove the tail section by removing the two pins the attach its hinge and the single connector that powers the tail light. Then align the airbox and the fuel tank. Remove the tank (single bolt rear mount) then fuel line quick disconnects, vent hoses and fuel pump plug, set it aside to first check that the airbox is properly attached with one bolt per side. After the tank has had fuel and vent hoses reattached, reattach the fuel pump plug and position the tank into the round receptacles in the airbox. BE CAREFUL that the mounts on either side of the tank don't hit the #1 #4 fuel injector plugs. If the rear mount of the fuel tank doesn't sit flat, look under the tank to see if the electrical connector, fuel lines or vent hoses are between the engine and fuel tank. Once the rear tank mount sits flush, it can be reattached and should fit against the airbox without gaps. As can the tail fairing.
 

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That chopped off connector looks like a common crimp-on spade...not an original connector. Single wire? Color of wire? wonder where it goes to??
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I figured out why the airbox and the fuel tank were misaligned. First off, the lock cylinder for the seat is missing, had the devil's own time opening the seat cowl, which when opened just fell off (no I didn't drop it). Doesn't seem to be a hinge? Well, not a working hinge anyway.

Then the gas tank. While the tank has a bolt hole at the rear, there was no bolt, and I don't see anywhere a bolt might actually attach to at the frame, so I'm going to assume that the female mating area for the bolt is also missing.

And this is why you never ride a used bike until you go thru it.

Help, oh help and bother.
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There is a bridge that goes over the battery and provides the hinge point as well as the gas tank mount.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well... There doesn't seem to be one. :-/ LOL. Why the frak would you lose that? Laziness.

Prolly changed out a battery and just set the bridge in a corner, never put it back. Morons.
 

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Someone stole it !!! The FBF bar risers are nice kit by the way. Wish I hadn't sold mine.
Does appear you have the double radiators !! That is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
"Unless", thought Pooh, "The hinge and bridge are still attached to the seat!" And so they were. No frame bolts, no washers, but there IS a hinge. And the bridge. No mounting point cracks. Yay.
 

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Agree with Ed on the FBF risers. There are some nice bits on that bike.
Here are some diagrams of the parts you should have:

Battery set up is important. Batteries are spill proof and lie on their side (Yuasa YTZ1-S or equivalent) with the NEGATIVE terminal forward.
Note the cable orientation. Things are tight under that bridge.
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This is what it should look like assembled...
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This is the orientation of the seat front hinge. If you want to find the original rubber pin holder/covers (Circled 1 on the diagram)...well, I happen to have 10 sets.
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Everything in the red box is for teh gas tank/seat support.
The green arrow shows the lock setup. If you find teh endo f the cable and simply pull on it, it releases the seat latch.

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