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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 F3675

it was in for a service last week and I was told I need a new chain ??
the bike has only done 3.5k light miles...I don't thrash it hard at all.

has anyone else had to change a chain this quickly ?
 

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Umm, why? Did they check the sprockets and links for wear? Mines at 11000km and no a hint of wear.

Remember, if you change the chain, you should also change the sprockets as they are a wearing set.
 

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Depends not just on mileage but on the care taken lubricating and adjusting it when necessary, too tight or loose will accelerate wear. Also the environmental conditions, dusty or lots of wet weather will take its toll. Tight links will also make things worse.

As said above, change as a set otherwise the new chain will inherit the wear on the existing sprockets.

Bike will likely run smoother with new chain and sprockets as well.

Having said that 3.5k miles is low for them to be shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ill give it a closer look tonight but I don't think so.

think ill get a second opinion
 

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You don't have to change a chain this soon usually buddy, and welcome to the forum.
Now you need to tell us where you are in the world ? It might have an influence on the chain maintenance ?
 

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ill give it a closer look tonight but I don't think so.
Maybe teaching you to suck eggs? Try pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket, if you can see much of a gap opening up between the chain and sprocket, when looking from the side, that indicates that it's worn. ISTR hearing that being able to fit a pencil into the gap at the bottom of the teeth being an indication that it's well a truly shot (in my book that's too far into risky territory). Also, if you have a paddock stand turn the rear wheel and check for tight spots/stuck links.
 

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I have a 2012 f3 with 15000miles on the clock, I have only just replaced my chain but not due to wear. The chain and sprockets still looks perfect. Only had to tighten the chain twice. Only replacing due to racing the bike and converting to 520.
 

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With the rear wheel on the stand, rotate the wheel while maintaining upward tension on the chain bottom run with your finger.

If the chain gets more loose or more tight as the wheel turns then you have stretched or kinked links.

The deflection should stay pretty constant as the wheel rotates and the chain passes over your finger.

Now go wash the grease off your finger and decide if your chain is good or bad.

Well over 20K miles on mine...it's fine and only been adjusted a couple of times.
 

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????

I have a 2013 F3675

it was in for a service last week and I was told I need a new chain ??
the bike has only done 3.5k light miles...I don't thrash it hard at all.

has anyone else had to change a chain this quickly ?
Find another dealer or do everything possible yourself......


Coming up on 32,000MILES .....on the original chain

Just adjusted it for the 1st time in probably 15,000mi .....it was 2mm too low

'08 910R


:popcorn:
 

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Coming up on 32,000MILES .....on the original chain
That's some impressive mileage on a chain, the other end of the spectrum. Don't a suppose that you run a chain oiler by any chance? Either that or are very particular about chain maintenance (regular cleaning and lubrication).
 

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Keep it clean and keep the o-rings lubricated.....that's the key. No pressure wash, just a brush and kerosene or WD-40 to clean. An o-ring chain specific lube. The o-rings are what need oiling, anything else is just anti-corrosive protection. Chain wax and heavy greases/oils attracts dirt.
 

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The other key thing is to not overtighten the chain, find the tightest point in one full rotation of the chain and set your freeplay there. Over tightening will not only destroy your chain and sprockets quickly, it will also damage your hub and countershaft bearings.:conveyer:
13500kms on my F3 including many trackdays and there's plenty of life left in my chain.
 

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What he said.
All this applies to ANY chain drive bike with o-ring chain.
Non o-ring chains DO require old fashioned penetrating chain lube. Not many of those around any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advice,

Ill check it all again and see, does seem strange that it would be shot already!!
 

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The best way to inspect your chain for stretch is to take it off and lay it along side the new chain ;) that will tell you exactly how much it has stretched.

An o-ring chain is often called a maintenance free chain, this is significant in that the only lubrication that is inside the rollers (which is where it is needed the most) is sealed in there by the o-rings when the chain was made. Using a pressure washer on your chain can potentially drive water past the seals and displace the original grease that was in there, promoting rust and shortening the life of the chain to months instead of miles. When the chain is off you can better examine it for problems in each of the links, such as binding due to rust damage and damaged rubber o-ring seals. The purpose of lubricating a sealed chain is to prevent the outer metal surfaces from rusting, and it doesn't require a whole lot of lubrication or wax to achieve this. You should never clean or lubricate a sealed chain with solvents that will attack rubber for obvious reasons.

:D for anybody who honestly believes that you need to lubricate the sprockets on a roller chain drive, I will be happy to sell you some very expensive sprocket wax.
 
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