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Discussion Starter · #281 · (Edited)
Off to Sepang they go for the last trackday of the year. I will see them at the circuit in 6 days time....

F4 need a new QS sensor fitting first as seems the current one overheats at the track, on the road it's fine but for some reason after 3-4 laps it will stop going from 4th to 5th or 3rd back to 2nd. Let the bike cool down and all ok again.
I hope the new sensor will fix this issue.

The F3 has been solid (touch wood)....
 

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F4 need a new QS sensor fitting first as seems the current one overheats at the track, on the road it's fine but for some reason after 3-4 laps it will stop going from 4th to 5th or 3rd back to 2nd. Let the bike cool down and all ok again.
I hope the new sensor will fix this issue.

Hi I would be very interested to know if a new sensor will fix the problem, I have the same issue on my RR since day 1 and wondered if it might be a dodgy translogic sensor that came with ECU studio package!
 

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If its a stock F4 sensor (Starlane) then it's can be very problematic to get the senor to operate well for all conditions and temperatures. If its the Durashift (F3 style) on a shift rod, the temperature should not make a significant difference.

The starlane is strain based and the F3 Durashift style is a resistor network and 2 micro-switches. I've used the Cordona sensor too and it works as well as the Durashift, both are better than the starlane, in terms of ease of setup.

If its playing up after a session, come straight in, connect ECU Studio and see if what the values are on the voltage for rest, shift up and shift down. The thresholds should be rest +/- 0.3 of a volt or so. You should not set the voltage to close to the actual shift voltage to allow for voltage and thermal variances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
F4 need a new QS sensor fitting first as seems the current one overheats at the track, on the road it's fine but for some reason after 3-4 laps it will stop going from 4th to 5th or 3rd back to 2nd. Let the bike cool down and all ok again.
I hope the new sensor will fix this issue.

Hi I would be very interested to know if a new sensor will fix the problem, I have the same issue on my RR since day 1 and wondered if it might be a dodgy translogic sensor that came with ECU studio package!
I will let you know mate.
 

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F4 need a new QS sensor fitting first as seems the current one overheats at the track, on the road it's fine but for some reason after 3-4 laps it will stop going from 4th to 5th or 3rd back to 2nd. Let the bike cool down and all ok again.
I hope the new sensor will fix this issue.

Hi I would be very interested to know if a new sensor will fix the problem, I have the same issue on my RR since day 1 and wondered if it might be a dodgy translogic sensor that came with ECU studio package!
First things I'd check is what ROM you are running and what settings have you for QS operation and voltage levels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #286 · (Edited)
F4 need a new QS sensor fitting first as seems the current one overheats at the track, on the road it's fine but for some reason after 3-4 laps it will stop going from 4th to 5th or 3rd back to 2nd. Let the bike cool down and all ok again.
I hope the new sensor will fix this issue.

Hi I would be very interested to know if a new sensor will fix the problem, I have the same issue on my RR since day 1 and wondered if it might be a dodgy translogic sensor that came with ECU studio package!
The new sensor did not fix the problem so onto what Dansoarr has suggested with checking the voltage.
The F3 remained solid!

The last picture is my friend riding the F3, https://www.instagram.com/rosyulina/ she looks good, better than me it seems.
 

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The new sensor did not fix the problem so onto what Dansoarr has suggested with checking the voltage.
The F3 remained solid!

The last picture is my friend riding the F3, https://www.instagram.com/rosyulina/ she looks good, better than me it seems.
Thank you for the update jhollis

I hope dansoar is able to fix it for you, please keep us posted. At the moment the UK climate is not compatible with bike riding or testing QS systems, so my problem and its solution may have to wait a little longer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #288 ·
Thank you for the update jhollis

I hope dansoar is able to fix it for you, please keep us posted. At the moment the UK climate is not compatible with bike riding or testing QS systems, so my problem and its solution may have to wait a little longer!
Ok, so we played with the voltages a little, from my basic understanding we moved the up and down closer to the resting voltage. One 20min ride and the issue was worse, it never used to show on the road but now it does. I suppose the good news here is that it does seem to be something to do with the voltages, namely the rest voltage is varying due to heat.

We will look to move the sensor so hopefully it stays cooler plus we can move the voltages in the other direction, basically away from the resting voltage.

We should get this done this week. Need this fixed quick as another trackday is coming up in 4 weeks time, No Limits from the UK are heading to Sepang so managed to jump on for a couple of days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
A couple of shots from the no limits trackday last week at Sepang. Some great detailed shots.

The QS/blipper is still playing up. We have changed the position of the sensor so it was further away from the engine but still no improvement. We then noticed an error message relating to the gear sensor so that was also changed however still seeing issues 4th to 5th and 6th to 5th.
There are some additional errors we now need to look at, hopefully get to the bottom of these issues soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
My F4 being used in a shoot....well a test shoot anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
So my F4 is now officially 'laid up' so it is no longer allowed on the road (at least for a year, can extend after this). So now I can fit the race front fairing and save some kgs from the headlight. This was just a test fit but all seems good other than there is no mounting anymore for the LED running light section in front of the air tubes plus no holes to fix the fairing to the front sub frame section. This front was from Camiers SBK bike and seems the mounting was much further back. May need to purchase the carbon air tubes from here Carbon Fibre Air Box Inlet Tubes – 2013 – 2017 MV Agusta F4 RR plus maybe its time to get the single exit SC so both my F3 and F4 are kitted with SC exhausts...
 

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I have the same race upper fairing on my bike and had to drill my own holes to suit the DBHolders upper fairing stay that I am using. I also have the Carbon air box inlet tubes that you linked to. You will need to drill some mounting holes for that, and in my case I needed to take some material out of the carbon mounting bracket in order to clear the headstock bracket itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
I have the same race upper fairing on my bike and had to drill my own holes to suit the DBHolders upper fairing stay that I am using. I also have the Carbon air box inlet tubes that you linked to. You will need to drill some mounting holes for that, and in my case I needed to take some material out of the carbon mounting bracket in order to clear the headstock bracket itself.
Thanks for the info. Do you have any pictures you could share?
 

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yes, but if they were Camiers fairings their screen brackets were different and not part of the central headstock mount. They used 2 brackets that go back to the steering damper mounts. They also use the same Air tubes, although they mod it a little.

I'll send you pics if you want. I can draw up the brackets, so that you could get fabricated locally, not sure I have the correct tube here, otherwise I'd make some for you, much better than re-drilling the fairing. There's also some airbox mods :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #295 ·
yes, but if they were Camiers fairings their screen brackets were different and not part of the central headstock mount. They used 2 brackets that go back to the steering damper mounts. They also use the same Air tubes, although they mod it a little.

I'll send you pics if you want. I can draw up the brackets, so that you could get fabricated locally, not sure I have the correct tube here, otherwise I'd make some for you, much better than re-drilling the fairing. There's also some airbox mods :)
As aways much appreciated, any help would be great as it would be a shame to drill the fairing. So what are the airbox mods?
 

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Mainly flow direction, they maintain separation from left and right hand sides, and control convergence. I'll take pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #297 ·
Managed to get the race front fairing fitted. Had to use the existing mounts that go all the way to the screen but used some additional bolts to hold the two pieces of metal together as normally they are clamped by the mirrors. The fairing is only held on now by the fairing fasteners and the mounts to the screen, seems pretty solid though. The number plate will be peeled off asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
New wheels, new hub, still no track open.
 

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@jhollis - is that one of Camier's custom rear swing-arms?
 
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