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2015 Rivale 800
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dear all, I'm new in the forum and I would like to share my experience with this issue on Rivale and Stradale tail lights.

My Rivale had a problem with one tail light, (on the 6+1 leds only 3+1 were working randomly) replaced in warranty. After a while the same tail light had problems and the dealer proposed a discount for a new one, but I would have to pay for the replacement.

I didn't liked the reply and tried to find a solution myself. After some research I found out the Italian company FAR is the producer of these parts, (same supplier for Ducati and many other brands) they had legal troubles with MV (I believe due to the MV financial situation), and due to the fact that Rivale was discontinued they didn't had time/will to create a technical revision of those tail lights.
This means that if you buy a brand new taillight from the dealer there is a good possibility to receive it faulty and after a while 3 or more leds will stop working.

After taking apart several lights from my and friends bikes and the problem was every time the same: one or more leds are burned and the whole 3 series will shut down, but they get burned in 90% of the cases because of the SMD cheap and small resistors, glued under clear epoxy that due to extreme heat and vibrations have the days counted.

After many tests I've shared my fixing experience with friends and motoclubs near my area, till being able to provide repair services to anyone interested.

The repair consist in opening the taillight, diagnose the broken leds replacing them. Modify the circuit removing the original SMD resistors and replacing them with bigger (in size not il value) ones in order to better support the heat. several hours of testing and re closing the taillight after cleaning the old resin using UV resistant black silicone. In some cases the replacement of the cables is needed.

For whom that prefer the DIY I've also created with a friend a brand new circuit in replacement of the original one, professionally designed, realized in metal core aluminum board 1,6mm thickness (1mm original), SMD 2512 4w resistors (0,5w original circuit) for the stop light, 22% size enlargement for better heat dissipation, new cable included.

For anyone who's struggling whit this problem please let me know, I'm glad to help.

EDIT: Pictures added, feel free to ask more. thanks @silentservice703 and @esq'z me for the infos!

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@Mr. P983 : You should be able to drag and drop pictures into your post.
Or, you can poke the image in the icons bar at the bottom of the post window and select pictures from your program to add.
May I suggest you start your own thread on this repair process as it would be a prime candidate for a sticky thread.
Thanks,
Chuck
 
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Old Wing Nut
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May I suggest you start your own thread on this repair process as it would be a prime candidate for a sticky thread.
I created a new thread for this as it is really good info. Want to make it sticky??
 
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2015 Stradale
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Hi all,

In the same process for the bike led light problem, i have both of the led light fail. So I have to ride with the rear panier.
With a lot of research in led circuit, i think there is a design flaw here.
Here is a good acticle about Led lighting circuit.

StackPath

there is only three resistor on the small PCB. for three LED circuit in the lens. Two with three LED in serial and one for the led bar.
 

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2015 Rivale 800
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all,

In the same process for the bike led light problem, i have both of the led light fail. So I have to ride with the rear panier.
With a lot of research in led circuit, i think there is a design flaw here.
Here is a good acticle about Led lighting circuit.

StackPath

there is only three resistor on the small PCB. for three LED circuit in the lens. Two with three LED in serial and one for the led bar.
Hi Stradale,

Interesting article, thanks for the link.
Actually there are 4 resistors on the OEM taillight circuit, as in the picture below.
In my opinion the flaws are multiple, poor design and cheap construction.
At least they used 2 strings of 3 led each one so if one resistor burn there are still 3 led on.
But the dimensions of the circuit and the operational conditions of constant heat and and vibrations are the real limit of this small pcb.

In our new design we used 6 resistors, one for led n7 (the bar) and 5 2512smd resistors in parallel configuration for maximise the heat dissipation. Compared to the oem 4 smaller (1206?) resistors it’s another story.




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Dear all, I'm new in the forum and I would like to share my experience with this issue on Rivale and Stradale tail lights.

My Rivale had a problem with one tail light, (on the 6+1 leds only 3+1 were working randomly) replaced in warranty. After a while the same tail light had problems and the dealer proposed a discount for a new one, but I would have to pay for the replacement.

I didn't liked the reply and tried to find a solution myself. After some research I found out the Italian company FAR is the producer of these parts, (same supplier for Ducati and many other brands) they had legal troubles with MV (I believe due to the MV financial situation), and due to the fact that Rivale was discontinued they didn't had time/will to create a technical revision of those tail lights.
This means that if you buy a brand new taillight from the dealer there is a good possibility to receive it faulty and after a while 3 or more leds will stop working.

After taking apart several lights from my and friends bikes and the problem was every time the same: one or more leds are burned and the whole 3 series will shut down, but they get burned in 90% of the cases because of the SMD cheap and small resistors, glued under clear epoxy that due to extreme heat and vibrations have the days counted.

After many tests I've shared my fixing experience with friends and motoclubs near my area, till being able to provide repair services to anyone interested.

The repair consist in opening the taillight, diagnose the broken leds replacing them. Modify the circuit removing the original SMD resistors and replacing them with bigger (in size not il value) ones in order to better support the heat. several hours of testing and re closing the taillight after cleaning the old resin using UV resistant black silicone. In some cases the replacement of the cables is needed.

For whom that prefer the DIY I've also created with a friend a brand new circuit in replacement of the original one, professionally designed, realized in metal core aluminum board 1,6mm thickness (1mm original), SMD 2512 4w resistors (0,5w original circuit) for the stop light, 22% size enlargement for better heat dissipation, new cable included.

For anyone who's struggling whit this problem please let me know, I'm glad to help.

EDIT: Pictures added, feel free to ask more. thanks @silentservice703 and @esq'z me for the infos!

View attachment 486787 View attachment 486788 View attachment 486789 View attachment 486790 View attachment 486791 View attachment 486792 View attachment 486793 View attachment 486794 View attachment 486795
How can i get this repairkit ?
Anybody know how to fix the crack in the headlight? All rivales i have seen have this same problem. Thx
 

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2015 Rivale 800
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How can i get this repairkit ?
Anybody know how to fix the crack in the headlight? All rivales i have seen have this same problem. Thx
Hi Steven, I’ll write you the details in DM.

For the cracked glass the only way at the moment is replace the whole headlight. They don’t sell only the clear polycarbonate piece.


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Welcome to the family @Steven vds .... would you do us the honor of introducing yourself with a post in the "New Member" section??
 
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2015 Stradale
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6 Posts
Hi all
Want to post what i did about those famous tail light failure. It seem to work for now after i month of riding.
First i think one of my tail light was open from the dealer because the internal was different from the other (no gray duct tape).
Hood Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design Silver


For sure with that duct tape in place, the heat has nowhere to dissipate.
So i remove everything, change the LED and did a little thermo image of the assembly without tape.
I measure both circuit, the running light at 12V consume 85ma (1,02W) and the brake light consume 350ma (4,2W) for each lens assembly.
After 3 minute with the brake circuit the main circuit was at 91 degC

Colorfulness Gesture Font Electric blue Symmetry


After 15min. 116degC
Colorfulness Font Screenshot Rectangle Symmetry


I stop there, i don't think we will have the brake light on for 15min. Still is getting pretty hot for the circuit.
The thing that surprise me is the plastic heat sink for the led, in my knowledge plastic is not a good heat transfer element.
I put some washer to have a space between the plastic heat sink and holder, here what i achieve for thermal dissipation.

.
Organism Electric blue Art Font Slope


I manage to lower the temperature of the led pcb.
Sorry i don't have other picture of the assembly, here is end of summer so riding time is precious.
I have to re-open the lens this winter, it is holding with clear tape. i will post more picture.
 

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Registered
2015 Rivale 800
Joined
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all
Want to post what i did about those famous tail light failure. It seem to work for now after i month of riding.
First i think one of my tail light was open from the dealer because the internal was different from the other (no gray duct tape).
View attachment 488725

For sure with that duct tape in place, the heat has nowhere to dissipate.
So i remove everything, change the LED and did a little thermo image of the assembly without tape.
I measure both circuit, the running light at 12V consume 85ma (1,02W) and the brake light consume 350ma (4,2W) for each lens assembly.
After 3 minute with the brake circuit the main circuit was at 91 degC

View attachment 488726

After 15min. 116degC
View attachment 488727

I stop there, i don't think we will have the brake light on for 15min. Still is getting pretty hot for the circuit.
The thing that surprise me is the plastic heat sink for the led, in my knowledge plastic is not a good heat transfer element.
I put some washer to have a space between the plastic heat sink and holder, here what i achieve for thermal dissipation.

. View attachment 488729

I manage to lower the temperature of the led pcb.
Sorry i don't have other picture of the assembly, here is end of summer so riding time is precious.
I have to re-open the lens this winter, it is holding with clear tape. i will post more picture.
Hi Stradale!

As you noticed there are two “versions” of the lights, one with the duct tape and the other without. Usually there are some zip ties to hold the wires in place.

The heat is the main problem but the led can handle it better than the circuit board with all that epoxy on one side and duct tape on the other.

The plastic rings around the led are not for heat dissipation, they are there for electric insulation because the chromed light holder even if is plastic, is metal plated and is conductive. They put the white plastic ring to avoid short circuit between + and - poles of the single led. When the screws of the light holder are tight there the possibility for the holder to touch the led poles without that plastic spacers.

Cheers.

Pietro


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2015 Stradale
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Thanks for the info Mr. P983 about the two version of the lens, It explain why one was without duct tape and one was with duct tape for my bike. I think the dealer where i bought it swap both light to other bike that had problem, even my lens connector was cut. Has for the plastic ring, i know it utility, i was not talking about those when i mention plastic heat sink. I was talking about the stair type assembly that hold the led pcb, it has fins on the backside.
 
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