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Just got back from one of the last ride outs of the year on my R and have got coolant everywhere. I've stripped the fairing and it looks like its coming from behind the rad. Cant see a hole but I guess a stone could have punctured it. :violin:

Will get a closer look in the daylight....
Anyone know if these rads are prone to puncture/leaks?
Any pointers/advice greatfully received.
Tont
 

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Tont said:
Just got back from one of the last ride outs of the year on my R and have got coolant everywhere. I've stripped the fairing and it looks like its coming from behind the rad. Cant see a hole but I guess a stone could have punctured it. :violin:

Will get a closer look in the daylight....
Anyone know if these rads are prone to puncture/leaks?
Any pointers/advice greatfully received.
Tont
wow.. so sorry to hear that...

I am just wondering if the bike was running hot? could it have been the coolant reservoir filled too full and the coolant boiled over due to the bike running very hot? I am not sure if you have read this before on this forum, but don't fill the reservoir past minimum line to prevent the coolant over flowing.

please keep us updated on the cause, good luck.
 

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Cheers, Odonata, I wish it was a case of running hot, but we have had a cool sunny/foggy day today. Shame as the bike is running beautifully otherwise. Pretty sure its a stone that has caused it. 3800 mile service is nearly due so might truck it down to the dealer and leave it with them while I go shopping for RG3/ECU/mid pipe to cheer myself up!
 

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Let us know from where it is leaking? F4R had pretty decent radiator guard did the stone went through it. If you like you can temporary fix the leaf with WB weld or cold weld epoxy’s. Good luck this sucks.
 

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Theres more than a few rads failing on 1000R and 312's, something is wrong, maybe the heat/pressure, or more likely MV changed manufacturers, which is something I have had a suspicion about for a while now, I never heard of any 1000S rads failing :jsm:
 

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Hi Tont check the top of your rad on the enjine side just below the top rad hanger brackets it might have crack on the core fins, bud look very carefully because the cracks are very tiny and not easy to see, good luck !!
 

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Bloody coolant everywhere! Same with my bike. It turned out to be the rad. Replacing under warranty. Now this seems to be a growing thing! Apparently, my dealer has had a 312 in recently with the same problem.
 

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MV312R said:
Hi Tont check the top of your rad on the enjine side just below the top rad hanger brackets it might have crack on the core fins, bud look very carefully because the cracks are very tiny and not easy to see, good luck !!

Thanks for the advice MV312R, and thanks for the sympathy to all.
Will check this out on Sunday and let you all know.

I guess if I start the engine I will soon see the problem source!

Cheers
Tont
 

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antonioshabirto said:
any updates on this ? i am kinda worried abt my radiator now .... thinking of geting the guard from emoto but not sure if its worth while.
a radiator grille is always a good idea as a debris puncture can leave you stranded quite a distance from home, usually beyond cellphone service range.

we got one R312 back recently with a faulty radiator. discovered the leak at a hairline crack in a core weld. do NOT follow the one person's advice and "JB Weld" it... it will not be able to withstand the pressure and will simply leak again once the bike comes up to operating temp the first time.

yes, it's a PITA, but that's what the warranty is for.

and please, for the love of all things holy, not one of you better start talking about a "class-action lawsuit" for this... that canned response is getting really, really tired. i'd like to try and find solutions to issues rather than throw our wangs around. ;)
 

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oakie said:
a radiator grille is always a good idea as a debris puncture can leave you stranded quite a distance from home, usually beyond cellphone service range.

we got one R312 back recently with a faulty radiator. discovered the leak at a hairline crack in a core weld. do NOT follow the one person's advice and "JB Weld" it... it will not be able to withstand the pressure and will simply leak again once the bike comes up to operating temp the first time.

yes, it's a PITA, but that's what the warranty is for.

and please, for the love of all things holy, not one of you better start talking about a "class-action lawsuit" for this... that canned response is getting really, really tired. i'd like to try and find solutions to issues rather than throw our wangs around. ;)

so whats ur suggestion ?? get the Radiator Guard from emoto ??
 

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oakie said:
do NOT follow the one person's advice and "JB Weld" it... it will not be able to withstand the pressure and will simply leak again once the bike comes up to operating temp the first time.
Dude I said temporarily fix with JB weld so one can fill it up with water and ride it to dealership if no trailer is available. :)

Done it in past hold up pretty good with minor leaks also keep it in tank bag will get you home in most cases.
 

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FSL said:
Dude I said temporarily fix with JB weld so one can fill it up with water and ride it to dealership if no trailer is available. :)

Done it in past hold up pretty good with minor leaks also keep it in tank bag will get you home in most cases.
Well i guess a Temp solution for welding is good but not a permanent solution
 

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Tont said:
Thanks for the advice MV312R, and thanks for the sympathy to all.
Will check this out on Sunday and let you all know.

I guess if I start the engine I will soon see the problem source!

Cheers
Tont
Hey Tont the problem is on the left hand side of your bike!! take off the fairing and start the engine and you will see a pin hole leak about one inch down and about two inches from the side .same thing on my Senna twice!!!!only my one is now in heaven due to coolant getting on the Tyre did warn you guys!The factory needs to sort this out.I have just put my RG3 for sale if you are keen. good luck.dion
 

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Hi Gents a veiw engineers and my self has find the problem for this crack that that apear on the rad top core and the conclusion are as follows: Deu to only two top hanger brackets and no extra stiffners that are welded onto the core at the fixing points the rad and the coolant together are fearly heavy plus the lower rad and the lower cowl that are attached the weight of all this are to heavy when you travel at speed the presure of the wind together with the weigth of the two rads and the fans are puling downwards on the two to hanger brackets this then put a lott of downwards pulling power on the brackets and now the top core are taken a big strain this cause it to crack. the bottom bracket that are connected onto the engine only hold the rads inline and do not contribute to carry the total weigth , this now the top brackets do not have suffisiant reinforsmant around it to share the all the wieght. Gents this conlusion are not bogus and it needs to be seriously adressed by the factory so if anyone have connections to them please use it
 
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