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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There was a dyno night at the cruise in tonight. Guy has the most reputable dyno in town, and a VERY reputable dyno overall. He's the guy who is at Jennings with the portable dyno, suspension tuning, as well as engine tuning. Highly recommended by Lookwell USA and alot of other racers.

Anyhow, these numbers are a little more to my liking. It ran these numbers on the last run. He told me the smoke was from me not driving it hard enough, and there being ALOT of carbon deposits. Sure enough, after like 5 passes, the 6th and 7th passes, there was NO SMOKE. But his dyno's are pretty spot on with actual numbers, as a guy JUST got his Turbo ZX12 back ran it on the dyno and it was within .5 HP of the other dyno reading from earlier in the day...

He recommended I not use synthetic oils due to the weather here, and it running too thin in this heat.

Hmm...he made my smoke go away, and all the racers around here take his word as pretty much gospel, as he's 99% of the time spot on.

Anyhow, enough of the babble. Here's the pics:







He couldn;t get a TQ reading cause he couldn;t get to the plugs, but he estimated high 50's....

Smooch, you missed out....he gave me free runs...because I was an MV! He was wondering where you were and I told him you pussed out and he was like "oh well, he woulda got a bunch of free passes..." :laughing: After you left, the rain was gone for my run, and shortly after. Then it POURED. But at 10PM, it was a starry skies with no rain after we left Dicks.

Anyhow, my buddy with a 00 GSXR 600 with 40K miles pulled 95 HP with only a slip-on! The guy said "don't sell that bike...there are guys jetted, filtered and everything else with just getting to that level...I'll buy your bike right now if you wanna sell it..." pretty impressive.

LMK what you think.....pretty sweet....
 

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oicdn said:
He recommended I not use synthetic oils due to the weather here, and it running too thin in this heat.
WHAT??? :eek: I'm not gonna start an oil war, but with the heat you most definetly want to run synthetic....thin has nothing to do with it.....a 40weight synthetic is the same as a 40 weight dino oil. Synthetics are vastly superior in the heat.

John T
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I asked the same thing, made the same points. He said it's because it's too viscous...I don't remember what he said, cause he was talking some during the bike running, but something about blow-through the airbox, and to disable something...I wish I coulda heard better. He told the same thing to a guy on an RC51 before my run as he was having the same issue.

I asked him what he runs and he said 10w-50, because in this african heat, it runs like a 40 weight...although, I'm running a 20w-50. That was the first time I've EVER heard of anybody preferring dino to synthetic, but all the guys, very experianced or not at the tracks take his advice.

I'm kinda surprised he said Iw asn't running it hard enough...I drive like a bat outta hell alot of the time from a stop light, but I guess maybe all the deposits re from when I'm just cruising, I'm at a low RPM for too much? I'm gonna start cruising around at 6-7K rpm from now on I guess?

he said if I changed my plugs, got a BMC, and a PC, I should gain 1-2 WHP with a perfect A/F ratio...he said he'd work me a deal, so I think those are gonna be my next purchases, and I'm done as far as engine mods go.
 

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oicdn said:
I asked him what he runs and he said 10w-50, because in this african heat, it runs like a 40 weight...although, I'm running a 20w-50.
He doesn't know what he's talking about. If his 50 wieight oil is running like a 40 weight he has problems. The 10W part is just flow characteristics when cold. The 50 part is the viscosity at operating temps.

The problem with dino oil is the shearing involved with the viscosity improvers that are needed to make the spread from 10W-40. The bigger the spread, the more VI's are needed. The shared tranny we run on these bikes chews up and "shears" these VI's on regular oil. True synthetics use little to no VI's and shear very little. So a synthetic 50 weight will stay a 50weight longer than a dino 50weight that will shear down to a 40 weight very fast.
They also can't handle the heat like a synthetic.

I'm kinda surprised he said Iwasn't running it hard enough.. but I guess maybe all the deposits re from when I'm just cruising, I'm at a low RPM for too much? I'm gonna start cruising around at 6-7K rpm from now on I guess?
Your a/f ratio looks pretty good but remember, this is only showing wide open throttle. Did he show you the a/f ratio at part throttle settings and at different rpms?? This is where you spend most of your time and you could be very rich at these throttle settings. This could be causing the build up he was talking about.

Also, was the smoke during the pull or was it in the decell part. Blue smoke is pretty common on the 750's. All the ones I have done smoked to some degree. If it was just during the full throttle pulls, carbon buildup (black smoke) will be blown out then. Cruising at a higher rpm will do nothing if it is still running rich at those throttle settings.

he said if I changed my plugs, got a BMC, and a PC, I should gain 1-2 WHP with a perfect A/F ratio...
The whole ides behind the PC is driveability at all throttle positions. If he is good he will concentrate on the "on/off" throttle transition as this is where most MV's suffer. My bike is very smooth with no herky jerky on/off transitions. Peak hp is fine and looks good on a graph but the real benefit is a great running bike at all throttle positions.

John T
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm familiar with all the oil jargon, arguements and fact/myths, but I run the 20W because it gives me a little bit of a buffer in this hot weather. That, and it's recommended by MV :laughing:

It was the reason I asked him again when he said "... and don't use synthetic". I was like "are you sure?" and he kept going on about it, but I could only hear bits and pieces of what he said as my bike was running, in addition to the dyno fans.

To give an idea of how hot it is here, and it's not even full blown summer. yesterday my bike sat for 8 hours parked in front of work. When I turned it on, the " _ _ _" warming up lines weren't there...it was already at 110 degrees. :eek: So I think he's over exaggerating a bit on the "50W like a 40wt oil", but you get his drift... He was also pointing out the fact that most people change thier oil at 3K miles, regardless if it's "extended life" synthetic, "regular" synthetic or dino, so the shearing of VI doesn't really apply as the VI is still closer to 50wt in BOTH versions at 3K miles. But for the sake of it all, he runs a synthetic blend, and says he sees better wear and gains typically.

I wish I coulda heard him better, but I don't wanna misquote anything he said...as his info is very good info.

He didn't show me the a/f ratio at different throttle positions, as it was just a session, but he did say when tuning it, he would look at it all.

As for the smoke, it showed up at like 11.5K RPM through redline, then continued on through decelleration until it was blown out after a couple runs. Then it didn't show up at all. Well, atleast it was comforting to know it wasn't anything I can't cure with 2-3 hard runs through 1st gear on the street.

I hear ya on the graph thing. I'de much rather have driveablity over peak HP....and I think that suckers so many people into some exhaust systems. They tell you about the peak HP, but there's a better exhaust system right next to it that gives better power THROUGHOUT....I myself would go for the one with the better gains accross the board, unfortuneatly, most people don't, cause they care about how high the line goes on the graph...
 
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