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I have a 2005 f4 100s and have never had the snatchy throttle most have encountered at low revs - until now. I replaced the air filter recently after giving the bike a once over before the season - I also recently placed an aftermarket water pump (cooling is now perfect). What I have now is a very noticeable throttle issue at low revs - above 4000 to redline, the bike runs perfectly. At low throttle, its very abrupt, I have to keep the revs up and slowly slip the clutch, or else it stalls. running in first gear below 4000 is like im in 6th gear going up hill at 20mph. it backfires a bit if I blip the throttle below 5000 -which it never did before. Can the existing ecu be mapped better? Id rather not have to buy an aftermarket bit to fix this issue. Another note -its crisp when its cold, but when it heats up above 150, the idle changes and the bike starts to run rough at idle
 

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If you have changed out your standard filter for a higher flow one then it might be the idle CO needs setting.
This will effect the entire throttle/ rpm range, not just idle.
However it will have more effect at he low end, tapering off with a small change at the top.

Anticlockwise to richen it.

Why did this thread show up as the most recent when it was 12 months old !
 

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12mths old Adam? First post shows 6.01pm, 14-6-2015 for me?

PS - why do US forums show dates back to front with month in front of date? So confusing ....... :stickpoke
 

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Adam & Moose;

Today is Tuesday, June 16th, 2015

abreviated 6/16/15......

and trust me more people drive on the right than on the left

:naughty:
 

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So what is the time?
52:03 lol?

We have one less driving on the left, Colin is over your way doing Keywest to Alaska - and back !!
 

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So what is the time?
52:03 lol?

We have one less driving on the left, Colin is over your way doing Keywest to Alaska - and back !!
Colin, as in TokyoLunch?
 

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Thing is, normal convention for most things is a logical progression from smallest unit to largest, or vice-versa. Therefore it should be day-month-year, or year-month-day. Anything else is illogical.

The date is a record of time, and therefore follow the other conventions for recording time. You wouldn't go minutes-seconds-hours, would you?

:naughty: :ahhh: :ahhh:
 

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Damn.
 

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Malcolm;
Any version of English is a long way from logical.......

Verb conjugations defy any logic as do the multiple meanings of many words

Take bow for example lolol

:wtf:

:popcorn:
 

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back to the bike problem, as someone said go back and make sure something did not come loose or get damaged. If it was running fine prior to the work being done and all you did as change the air filter then there should be a simple fix. Just might be difficult to find
 

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I understand your confusion. Even though I grew up with the American date format, logic dictates that it should follow a pattern: smallest unit to largest
 

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back to the bike problem, as someone said go back and make sure something did not come loose or get damaged. If it was running fine prior to the work being done and all you did as change the air filter then there should be a simple fix. Just might be difficult to find
Indeed. My suggestion would be to check vacuum/sensor air tubes. I recently did some work on my other bike (TL1000), and afterwards went for a test ride. Despite being fine beforehand, it now ran like a bag of poo below 4k rpm. After some searching, I found a vacuum tube had been pulled off the inlet air pressure sensor (nowhere near where I'd been working!). Pushed that back on, all was happy again....
 

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dude.. stop. listen.. take a screwdriver to your idle mixture screws. back them in one an\t a time and back out to the same spot if they are within minimum adjustments.. the adjustments are not easy to find but one thing is for sure.. if you have more than 3 turns rich on 1/2 throttle body and 3/4 on 3 and 4.. its a bad eprom adjustment or program(or vice versa) .. if that is the case I am pretty sure 1/2 are minimum 1 1/4 turns out and 3/4 are minimum 2 turns out but not 100% sure. there is a baseline adjustment though and it is buried in a group of links while looking for metal fuel fittings for your tank.. google will figure it out but it takes a few hours..no joke.. if the adjustments are off it also on the same link has a minimum for eprom. eprom is typically a base of 3/4 of the way to the left or front of the bike looking at the small delicate dial thinggie.. care needs to be given and it is highly recommended you use a plastic screwdriver as they conduct but you just put the screw driver on it and move those no more than a fingernail at a time left or right.. if you get way off track the bike will either die or rev high so just remain calm and slowly adjust it.. slow is key.. i9f you find your baseline mixture screws are decently close to each other its probably the little black plug and play ox called a slipper clutch relay.. call JoJo at proitalia. she is cool people. 154$ and takes all of 30sec to install.. I zip tied mine to the frame rail near the left body panel vent as these thing's need to remain cool as possible. helps to put a rubber mount of some sort under it .. also.. if your tweaking the mixture screws.. remember . when all is done eprom chip and throttle bodies.. the choke must not exceed 2K rpm fully open. that is how you know your dialed in for sure.. also why you have to adjust everything slow and with minimal turns all at the same time while having a beverage. its not hard once you get close.. its getting close that is hard.. edited for spelling and to remind you.. plastic screwdrivers on eproms are highly recomended
 

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wrecker;
you need to learn the correct nomenclature, function and method of working on the parts of your bike.....

there is no slipper clutch relay and you can't adjust an eprom for example

and you adjust the free play in the fast idle cable to control the fast idle speed

:popcorn:
 
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